BackNBlack
Member
You are 100% CORRECT Bill...we SURE DID have it NICE 22 years ago @Team Ford, though...didn't we??!! THOSE were the DAYS!
Supercharged Marauder Throwing Code P0340 NEED HELP PLEASE!
- Thread starter BackNBlack
- Start date
Black Terror
Contributing Member
Yes, and had Carfixer, and others to help troubleshoot problems.
Black Terror
Contributing Member
Team Ford lost all their good people when they stopped them from working on our vehicles unless you went thru front counter. Today, it is a part changer Dealership. Sales and Service have gone to pot. Pugmire is the same way. They did things to my Vehicle that I didn't authorize so I use someone else for service, unless it is a Recall or Warranty item.
BackNBlack
Member
I've heard this, as well. And I ASKED about this with the Tech...he says the Alternator "is working fine..." I ALWAYS WONDERED due to The Trilogy needs the alternator turned AROUND backwards.
What choices do we have on Alternators...that are NOT made in China?
BackNBlack
Member
U P D A T E:
After a couple on here suggested "the alternator"...I conveyed that to the Dealer...who was REALLY skeptical. As i was, too. WHY would the alternator have any effect to a "Camshaft Sensor Bank 1" which seems to be a simple diode that counts timing of the camshaft with a simple wire to & from the PCM. Well...it seems my young tech who was working on it...couldn't get it out of his head last night. So, he came in EARLY this morning (5am) to try something...and it WORKED!
This 1st graph shows the car running, WITH the alternator "Plugged-In' and you can see the LARGE SPIKES which indicate the Camshaft Timing (in 100th of milli-seconds of timing)
As you can ALSO see...there is "NOISE" in-between EACH and EVERY cam revolution...and in SOME of that noise is pretty predominate "spikes' which he felt COULD trigger a reading on the PO340 - Camshaft Timing Sensor - Bank 1 (WHICH upon further inspection...the young Tech LEARNED that that sensor does NOT need Power from the PCM. IN FACT...it has small magnets inside which generate the power in which it operates. Therefore, the simple single wire to & from the PCM just convey the clean or "noisy" timing of the camshaft, were it to be off a tooth or two.
The NEXT Graph shows the car running with the Alternator UNPLUGGED...
See how "CLEAN" the transmission from the sensor is WITHOUT the alternator engaged. The "FLATLINE" between strokes indicate a MUCH more smooth operation WITHOUT any possibility of in-between "spikes' that could unsettle the sensor and provide what had become very random "PO340" codes.
SO...thanks again to @Hummer03 and I forget whom else said "it's the alternator'...you were RIGHT! *I hope!
NEW Ford reman alternator is on the way tonight...young tech will be transferring my current Alternator's powder coated black covers to the NEW (RM) alternator...and we will SEE if I can get my BAD BLACK ***** BACK OUT ON THE ROAD!!!!
After a couple on here suggested "the alternator"...I conveyed that to the Dealer...who was REALLY skeptical. As i was, too. WHY would the alternator have any effect to a "Camshaft Sensor Bank 1" which seems to be a simple diode that counts timing of the camshaft with a simple wire to & from the PCM. Well...it seems my young tech who was working on it...couldn't get it out of his head last night. So, he came in EARLY this morning (5am) to try something...and it WORKED!
This 1st graph shows the car running, WITH the alternator "Plugged-In' and you can see the LARGE SPIKES which indicate the Camshaft Timing (in 100th of milli-seconds of timing)
As you can ALSO see...there is "NOISE" in-between EACH and EVERY cam revolution...and in SOME of that noise is pretty predominate "spikes' which he felt COULD trigger a reading on the PO340 - Camshaft Timing Sensor - Bank 1 (WHICH upon further inspection...the young Tech LEARNED that that sensor does NOT need Power from the PCM. IN FACT...it has small magnets inside which generate the power in which it operates. Therefore, the simple single wire to & from the PCM just convey the clean or "noisy" timing of the camshaft, were it to be off a tooth or two.
The NEXT Graph shows the car running with the Alternator UNPLUGGED...
See how "CLEAN" the transmission from the sensor is WITHOUT the alternator engaged. The "FLATLINE" between strokes indicate a MUCH more smooth operation WITHOUT any possibility of in-between "spikes' that could unsettle the sensor and provide what had become very random "PO340" codes.
SO...thanks again to @Hummer03 and I forget whom else said "it's the alternator'...you were RIGHT! *I hope!
NEW Ford reman alternator is on the way tonight...young tech will be transferring my current Alternator's powder coated black covers to the NEW (RM) alternator...and we will SEE if I can get my BAD BLACK ***** BACK OUT ON THE ROAD!!!!
Black Terror
Contributing Member
Wow, would never have suspected the Alternator. Scope picture shows the difference. Hope this cures your Codes.
BackNBlack
Member
Thanks, my friend...ME TOO!
BackNBlack
Member
Welp...I picked my Black ***** up late afternoon Friday. No codes, Runs GREAT...and HERE is the comparison of Old Alternator to NEW. You can readily notice the "chatter" between cam strokes are GREATLY reduced...as well as the actual Cam Timing seems MUCH more precise and accurate.
Young tech did a GREAT job. He received a couple crisp hunnies from me as and "extra thanks" as he not only R&R'd the alternator, but per my request he changed out the Old alternator's Black Powder coated casing with the NEW Ford Reman'd Alternator..*AND he even cleaned and re-oiled my S&B Intake Filter!
I'm HAPPILY MARAUDERING AGAIN!!!!!
Young tech did a GREAT job. He received a couple crisp hunnies from me as and "extra thanks" as he not only R&R'd the alternator, but per my request he changed out the Old alternator's Black Powder coated casing with the NEW Ford Reman'd Alternator..*AND he even cleaned and re-oiled my S&B Intake Filter!
I'm HAPPILY MARAUDERING AGAIN!!!!!
Black Terror
Contributing Member
Great that everything is working correctly again. Using a 'scope has great benefit in tracking down noise, glad the tech knew how to use it. Most techs are remove/replace, not the troubleshooting kind. Glad some good ones are still around.
BackNBlack
Member
Thanks Bill...it was GREAT to get her back out and "Blow the carbon Off the Plugs"!!!!
MENINBLK
Lumbee Marauder
THERE IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE HARNESS RUBBING AGAINST THE BACK OF THE HEAD ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE.
CHECK YOUR HARNESS IN THE AREA WHERE THE IGNITION HARNESS ENTERS THE COIL COVER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE ENGINE.
IF THE RUB IS NOT BAD, YOU CAN JUST WRAP THE HARNESS WITH BLACK TAPE.
IF IT IS VERY BAD, THEN YOU NEED TO GET A REPLACEMENT HARNESS OR FIX THE INDIVIDUAL WIRES AND ADD LOOM TO COVER THE AREA.
TELL THIS TO THE DEALER INSPECTING YOUR VEHICLE.
CHECK YOUR HARNESS IN THE AREA WHERE THE IGNITION HARNESS ENTERS THE COIL COVER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE ENGINE.
IF THE RUB IS NOT BAD, YOU CAN JUST WRAP THE HARNESS WITH BLACK TAPE.
IF IT IS VERY BAD, THEN YOU NEED TO GET A REPLACEMENT HARNESS OR FIX THE INDIVIDUAL WIRES AND ADD LOOM TO COVER THE AREA.
TELL THIS TO THE DEALER INSPECTING YOUR VEHICLE.
BackNBlack
Member
I was aware of this issue as I am a MARAUDER OG...when I received a new motor at 49,600 miles...the harness rubbing issue + a LOT of other known by then issues (head cooling mod, motor frame placement points, etc) were addressed...BTW...the Twin Screw went on at 58,500 miles...and NOW she has 96,400 miles...and THANKFULLY running GREAT!!! *again!