Trac lock rebuild

BigCars4Ever

BigCars4Ever

Senior Member
I rebuilt my rear end today but I have a question. I took the old clutch packs and measured them. They both measured 0.640". I assembled the new packs and used the smallest shims in the pack but the new packs were 0.645". I put them in anyways but is this going to cause problems?
 
Did you use the standard friction material or Kevlar?

Did you add an extra clutch?

Heavy duty "S" spring?
 
musclemerc said:
How hard was the install?
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Everything is smooth sailing, until you try to put that S-spring back in. I imagine it gets easier the more you do it. All I know is I've done it once, it was one of the least fun things I ever done to my car.

I didn't have any special tools. Just a snake clamp, some needle nose pliers, a BFH, and a pair of trusting hands to hold the carrier on the table as I smacked the S-spring and prayed for the best.
 
CameronVic said:
Everything is smooth sailing, until you try to put that S-spring back in. I imagine it gets easier the more you do it. All I know is I've done it once, it was one of the least fun things I ever done to my car.

I didn't have any special tools. Just a snake clamp, some needle nose pliers, a BFH, and a pair of trusting hands to hold the carrier on the table as I smacked the S-spring and prayed for the best.
Click to expand...

yjmud said:
^^^+1^^^ worst part of the whole job is the spring
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Oh yes it is!!
 
I installed a standard clutch pack set. Nothing exotic. Steel friction Steel Steel Friction Steel Friction Shim just like originals. I do have a few tips that made it easy.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the calipers, some newpaper around the upper control arm gives you a nice place to park them.
Remove the rotors.
Remove the ABS sensor.
On the differential:
Remove the center pin lock bolt and center pin.
Put the car in neutral. Push one axle in while spinning it slowly. Keep checking the c clip for clearance. When you can see all the edges of the clip push it off the axle with two screwdivers. Be carefull not to damage the o ring. Repeat for the other side.
I kept the axles in the car. Just use you finger to push them out enough to remove the s spring.
Pull out the s spring. A slide hammer make easy work of this.
Put the car back in park. Using one of the axles spin out the spider gears.
Put the car back in neutral.
Start with the drivers side first. Slide the axle out a little, turn it and push it back in to get the side gears out. Once they are out far enough to grab push the axle back out a little so it's not in your way and remove the side gear. Not all of the clutches and steels will come out at the same time. Carefully remove the remaining parts and stack them on the side gear. The last part out will be a stainless steel shim. Repeat the process for the other side.
Now I don't know how important this is but more than one site mentioned this. Don't confuse the left and right side gears. With a caliper measure the old clutch packs and use the different size shims to get close. Mine were both 0.640 and the closest I could get was 0.645.
Put the new packs on the side gears and install them in the carrier. Passenger side first.
Install the s spring. I used a 1.5" Goodall spreader. The kind you use for drywall. I put the spreader against the ring gear and side gear. Then wedged the spring against the passenger side side gear flat and the spreader. Then used a block of aluminum and a hammer and just a few good hit and it was in.
Put back in the c clips. I made sure the o ring was towards the end of the axle. Use the axle to reinstall the spider gears by turning them. It took a few tries before I had mine in the right position.
Put the car in neutral to get the center pin back in. Then spin the carrier to get it in a good position to tighten the retaining bolt. Use the new bolt in the kit or clean the old one really well and apply loctite.
I use Black RTV gasket maker on my diff but a lot of people use actual gaskets. At any rate seal the cover up and fill it with 2.2liters of your favorite rear end oil. Mine came with the friction modifier in it already otherwise you need to add it.

No more one wheel peel for me! BTW, my old clutches looked pretty good but I guess after 120k miles they just were to contaminated to grip properly.
 
Hmmmm...how important are the axle o-rings? When I replaced the axles in Phoebe, the new ones didn't come with o-rings and I didn't realise there were any on the old ones until the job was done. Everything sounds fine and there are no leaks that I can detect. I did the job back in April of '10 and it's been about 15,000 miles so far...
 
Left my o-rings out too, but not because I forgot. I tried to put them on the Dorman axles but couldn't get the C clips on with the o-rings there. Not losing sleep over it.
 
This is the first I have read about O rings. I'm starting to think I should have gotten the Ford TSB kit with OEM axles instead of the Dorman's.

Whos axles did you use BC4E?
 
CameronVic said:
I didn't have any special tools. Just a snake clamp...
Click to expand...
blazen71 said:
Compress it with a hose clamp and then cut it off once the s-spring is in.
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I did, and it's people like you that made this job sound so easy, are the reason I tried it in the first place. LOL.

Then Sunday night rolled around and my ONLY car! My DD! was still in pieces. I got it back together, but it was no fun at all! I would think hard before I did this job again, I'm just praying these carbon fiber clutches last me long enough until I get the itch to put a mini-spool in. Screw that S-spring man!
 
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