Dyno tuned last week

R

robertmee

New member
Took my '03A Trilogy to Fastlane Motorsports after having new Stainlessworks Longtubes, Magnaflow x-tube and high flow cats and new 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust. After realizing that the boost pump was turned off (d'oh) pulled a respectable 463 RWHP/428 Torque. No other real mods to the car and still running the stock intake box (like the looks of it). Considering getting a CV box and cutting it open, but for now, I'm happy. I'll try to post the graph and a video later.

Comment from Fastlane was boy what a sleeper :D
 
Yes Stock Pulley, that much I know....

I'm going to assume stock throttle body and non-ported Trilogy as I purchased the car with the Trilogy kit already installed and there was no mention of this which I assume are 'extra's? You'll have to forgive my ignorance...I'm from Turbo Buick heritage and this is my first foray into SC ford's :) I'm still learning about my own car ;)
 
Interesting... Stock Trilogy with a safe tune is right around 400RWHP. Can you post up your dyno sheet? Those are super numbers if it's all stock. You're pushing 578hp @ the crank!
 
Not too surprised. Besides a 3.2 upper, 90 MM MAF, MAFia extender, and a CAI, I just ran a 453 (466 with cut outs open). Of course, this wasn't dialed in (three year old tune), just wanted the AFR checked and curious on numbers since the LT's were installed and sucked away my boost from 11.4 to 9.7 and a CAI added.

Sucks I am so limitted till the other block goes in... But hey, 466 at 9.7#s? I can live with that!

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Excuse the format...Scanner is on the kaput, so quick and dirty photo work....I've e-mailed them for the A/F chart as I'd like to see where that is as that's imperative to a safe tune. I didn't think anything about a 460 tune, so now you got me worried :) However, these guys are THE ford tuners in my area and have done many hundreds of safe tunes, so I'm optimistic they know what they are doing. They were booked solid for 6 weeks before I could even get an appointment on their Dyno.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z217/robertmee/Mercury Marauder/2012-04-16_21-59-48_235.jpg
 
justbob said:
I've heard front reputable Mustang shops to expect an average of 80 with this particular trans and an 8.8 in a Mustang.

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Click to expand...

Assuming Ford didn't lie about the CHP you look at what a stock Marauder has on a DynoJet and the difference is ~60HP.

Keep in mind DynoJet does not provide HP but a reference. I don't know what dyno Ford uses for the CHP.

The point is a % is an incorrect way to convert.
 
Bob,

What's been your experience with 4.30's S/C? I was considering 4.10's but after reading a bit there seemed to be a camp that put forth a dissuasive argument against on a S/C car. Although I also see you've done quite a bit of suspension work so perhaps that's the key to keeping the traction....

I've not done any track runs since the tune so I have no real idea where I'm at even, but like most, I'm always anticipating the next upgrade. :D
 
robertmee said:
Bob,

What's been your experience with 4.30's S/C? I was considering 4.10's but after reading a bit there seemed to be a camp that put forth a dissuasive argument against on a S/C car. Although I also see you've done quite a bit of suspension work so perhaps that's the key to keeping the traction....

I've not done any track runs since the tune so I have no real idea where I'm at even, but like most, I'm always anticipating the next upgrade. :D
Click to expand...

I had such serious doubts that I left the gears sit on the bench for months.. When my good friend Guspech750 all but begged me to do it, I could not believe I waited 7 1/2 years to do so! My RPM's at 76 are 2750 and I get 19.8 on the highway. Traction isn't bad at all unless you want it to be. Decent tires, and suspension are key, but driver control is the biggest part. This would be my first mod S/C or N/A.

Keep in mind that most who say no to the 4:30's have probably never owned a set or even ridden in a MM with them. Everyone who has driven mine says they feel great.

Hell, i'd even consider 4:56's at this point. :)

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sailsmen said:
The drive line parasitic drag is ~60HP.
Click to expand...
Tell all the car pros out there that, I thought it was more of a static number too. Show me the lit and science to prove it please. I'm dying to see ane engine dyno number and then that same engine in an auto on a car dyno. Haven't found it yet.
 
robertmee said:
Bob,

What's been your experience with 4.30's S/C? I was considering 4.10's but after reading a bit there seemed to be a camp that put forth a dissuasive argument against on a S/C car. Although I also see you've done quite a bit of suspension work so perhaps that's the key to keeping the traction....

I've not done any track runs since the tune so I have no real idea where I'm at even, but like most, I'm always anticipating the next upgrade. :D
Click to expand...

I loved my 4.10's before my Eaton swap and I love my 4.10's even more after my Eaton swap.

With that being said. After driving Bobs car, (not mashing the pedal) but just driving and feeling it. If I could do it all over again. I would for sure have bought 4.30's. And like Bob said. 4.56's are very tempting too.


So just do it!!

Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!
 
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RacerX said:
Tell all the car pros out there that, I thought it was more of a static number too. Show me the lit and science to prove it please. I'm dying to see ane engine dyno number and then that same engine in an auto on a car dyno. Haven't found it yet.
Click to expand...

Think about it, no lit or science required.

For discussion you DynoJet the engine using the same formulae for an HP reference of 300CHP @6,000rpms. You then DynoJet the rear wheels using the same formulae for an HP referenc of 240RWHP @ 6,000rpms.

What this tells us is the driveline "drag" is 60HP using the DynoJet HP reference.

Now TrippleHP comes along and puts a BB Chevy that has 1,000,000CHP @6,000rpms. Does the driveline majically change because the spell of TrippleHP's BB Chevy is turning it???

Does all of a sudden the driveline now have resistance requiring 20% of 1,000,000CHP @6,000rpms or 200,000HP?????

I know some who are great at operating a calculator and coming up with an answer. Take the calculator away and they cannot come up with any answers.;)

Take away their majic wand and they are really in trouble!
 
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robertmee said:
Excuse the format...Scanner is on the kaput, so quick and dirty photo work....I've e-mailed them for the A/F chart as I'd like to see where that is as that's imperative to a safe tune. I didn't think anything about a 460 tune, so now you got me worried :) However, these guys are THE ford tuners in my area and have done many hundreds of safe tunes, so I'm optimistic they know what they are doing. They were booked solid for 6 weeks before I could even get an appointment on their Dyno.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z217/robertmee/Mercury Marauder/2012-04-16_21-59-48_235.jpg
Click to expand...

They used Std. Was it a dry/cool day?
 
It was around 72 deg's that day with the wind, but the dyno is inside, so not sure what the inside temp was. It's North Carolina so it is NEVER dry :)

I do know after several hard pulls (engine hot), the numbers dropped to around 445. 463 was the best one.
 
I think you misunderstood. I already believe what your saying and have for a long time. WHY do professional race teams, race websites, all say 12% for manual, 15% for auto and have their little calculators etc. to translate from RWHP to BHP?Crank HP??? Why won't anyone show the real science and that it is a static loss and doesn't increase/decrease with HP?

sailsmen said:
Think about it, no lit or science required.

For discussion you DynoJet the engine using the same formulae for an HP reference of 300CHP @6,000rpms. You then DynoJet the rear wheels using the same formulae for an HP referenc of 240RWHP @ 6,000rpms.

What this tells us is the driveline "drag" is 60HP using the DynoJet HP reference.

Now TrippleHP comes along and puts a BB Chevy that has 1,000,000CHP @6,000rpms. Does the driveline majically change because the spell of TrippleHP's BB Chevy is turning it???

Does all of a sudden the driveline now have resistance requiring 20% of 1,000,000CHP @6,000rpms or 200,000HP?????

I know some who are great at operating a calculator and coming up with an answer. Take the calculator away and they cannot come up with any answers.;)

Take away their majic wand and they are really in trouble!
Click to expand...
 
RacerX said:
I think you misunderstood. I already believe what your saying and have for a long time. WHY do professional race teams, race websites, all say 12% for manual, 15% for auto and have their little calculators etc. to translate from RWHP to BHP?Crank HP??? Why won't anyone show the real science and that it is a static loss and doesn't increase/decrease with HP?
Click to expand...

Because they would have to have each car based on the different drive train. Easier just to use the % from the OEM CHP to OEM RWHP.

Their way results in higher HP, :D

Like Std. vs SAE.
 
sailsmen said:
They used Std. Was it a dry/cool day?
Click to expand...

So I read a little on Std vs SAE....General rule of thumb is SAE is .974 of std #'s, so SAE equivalent is 451? Am I correcting the right direction for my atmospheric conditions of 72 degrees, probably 30% humidity that day?

I do recall they had a huge fan blowing on the intake of the car to keep it cool...It was quite cold standing in front of it. Is that an attempt to normalize the results to the Std correction of 68 deg, 0 humidity? I thought it was more for cooling the engine during each pull.

I'm thoroughly confused now...If SAE dyno's compensate for atmospheric conditions, why wouldn't all DYNO tuners use that setting? Is it a matter of the Dynojet itself not having that capability, or is it part of a game of smoke and mirrors to make the results look better.
 
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