Worried about high HP with our WAP blocks?

RacerX

RacerX

New England Marauder Member
Don't be! John Mehovitz (Owner of Accufab) has been raising the limits for a while!

http://accufabracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54&Itemid=84
"The Cougar was a dedicated Lenco-transmissioned drag car; until it's retirement ra n a best of 6.31 seconds at 229 mph, and was a proven, steady laboratory for John's ceaseless modular engine development, which hovers at an astounding 2,300 hp. That makes it the undisputed horsepower-per-cubic-inch champion of the modular world, and one of two contenders for the straight-up most powerful modular engine in history. The accomplishment also puts the modular Ford far ahead of any current domestic engine in its ability to make and survive such power.

What made John's power and speed so impressive is the small displacement and stock source for major portions of his engine program. Displacement is 282 ci-- call it a stock 4.6 liters-- using a stock aluminum Cobra block; stock old style, "B" dual-port, Four Valve cylinder heads, as found in a '95 Lincoln; and a stock 4.6 liter Cobra crankshaft. Twin Garrett turbochargers supplied a mind bending 52 pounds of boost on top of an over 11:1 static compression ratio on gasoline!"

I'm sure all the fasteners are not OEM! ;)
 
Most likely its a Teksid. But WAPs are still VERY capable I doubt anyone here makes enough power to break one. Unless a rod goes through the side of course.....
 
WAP?

I'll let you be the first to try and run 2300hp through a Marauder engine Bill. Let us know how that goes.:rolleyes:
 
Mr. Man said:
WAP?

I'll let you be the first to try and run 2300hp through a Marauder engine Bill. Let us know how that goes.:rolleyes:
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It's the point of correcting false information. "Oh, 700+hp? You're aluminum block will never handle that!"
Another one. Drivetrain HP loss is static and doesn't go up with hp. False! I saw both thoughts on this by many different groups. Fact is, auto trans you will lose x.x%hp at 300rwhp and that same x.x% through the same drivetrain at 1000rwhp. Verified by two shops I know. One with a Dynojet dyno and his personal engine builder who tests every engine built on an engine dyno. http://www.pkmachinehp.com/testimonials.html
Carry on! :beer:
hardcoresmilie.gif
 
John Mihovets runs the latest production aluminim block if my memory serves me right. He also offers the exact same 2300hp engine for a mere of $60,000. He is the reason why i didnt bore or stroke my current build, the guys that are successfully running over 1200hp arent bored or stroked.
Its all in the heads, the bottom end is simply built to withold the abuse. Bigger is not always better guys! Our little motors needs boost and a good amount at that. Cams also plays a good part of that,
Forget off the shelf and have John himself or Michael at L&M engines spec a set for your app and if installed correctly the can gain up to 100rwhp on certain setups. I can go on and on. I myself have learned alot on how to make this motors survive from yellowbullet.com. My next shortblock will be built by L&M which have over 50 cars running more that 1,000 plus hp for several seasons. Anyone can build a 600hp mod motor anything above that it takes alot of knowledge that most of our associated builders dont have. Shop wisely!:beer:
 
OK so I have a question Is the MM block itself an aluminator block? I believe it's aluminum.

Also what is WAP?
 
Beautiful! ;)

"Negative on the teksid block, just a regular ol' aluminum block. There is no advantage or extra strength in the teksid block."

Interesting:

"I'm going to let you in on a little secret. Don't bore the block. We retain the stock bore and stroke and use the stock sleeves that came in the cylinder block. There are NO mods in that area, nor do we fill the block with HardBlock. Anyone running supercharger or turbo boost has to understand, there is NOTHING to be gained by boreing the block."

"People need to think differently about these Mod Motors than they think about pushrod motors. it's NOT about displacement. And it's NOT about big camshafts. Most of the issues we have seen with guys that are hopping up the Mod Motors is that they think the engine wants the same thing that the pushrod engines want. Not true."
 
RacerX said:
Beautiful! ;)

"Negative on the teksid block, just a regular ol' aluminum block. There is no advantage or extra strength in the teksid block."

Interesting:

"I'm going to let you in on a little secret. Don't bore the block. We retain the stock bore and stroke and use the stock sleeves that came in the cylinder block. There are NO mods in that area, nor do we fill the block with HardBlock. Anyone running supercharger or turbo boost has to understand, there is NOTHING to be gained by boreing the block."

Hey are u referring to our MM blocks...??? And if our block is strong why not just put better internals and add nos... That's what I'm aiming for..


Antoine
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I love the rod ratio of the 281's. I wouldn't ever run a modular stroker. I would do a big bore 5.0 block though.
 
Boring the block reduces strength in power adder engines. No real need to either since you can always increase the boost.

Antoine,

Better internals are really all the mod motors need.
 
djs2000mgm said:
Based on the fact that he's running B heads, I'd say it's probably a teksid
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He switched to GT heads a couple years ago. Also, he told me that after porting his B heads looked nothing like B heads when he was done. (http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7204073&postcount=74)

He used tekisds but now he goes with the newer versions, no WAPS. The engines use two cooling systems, one for the heads and one for the block. The holes in the deck and and the heads are blocked off and the head gaskets have no cooling system holes.

There's a 5.4 in the new MM&FF that he built, it makes over 1000rwhp from about 4000-6000RPM. It has one of those big *** 4.X Litter blowers.

The only reason to bore a block is to get the cylinders straight and the small .020 and .030 overbores do not add any power. Big bores and strokers will add quite a bit of power and make the same as a stock bore lock with less boost and as a result the heat buildup they see is much less; boost increases heat and heat limits the life of the engine. A stroker is a great option if the engine is going to see moderate boost levels and is street driven; more off boost power and better driveability with FI friendly gears.

In the case of cubic inches, adding them is never a bad thing.
 
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There is a really good article with pictures about MR. Mihovetz's and his program in 5.0 Mustangs and Super Fords, the June 2009 issue. It is an 8 page article and talks about alot of what you guys have mentioned plus more.:burnout:
 
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