Stroker Short Block Project with Centri SC

[Jeronimojc]

Please comment, I need all the help I can get. If all goes well, I’ll be starting some out of my league engine work in the not too distant future. Some of you may know I wrecked my black MM in January of this year :bigcry:. I bought the totaled car at auction and I’ve been parting it out, but will keep the engine and transmission. In the meantime, I bought a SB MM with the settlement money from the insurer . The build will be on the engine from the black MM while I keep the SB as my DD. When done I'll swap engines. My current plan is to install an Aluminator 46X short block and a D1SC supercharger. Here’s what I am thinking:

1) RWHP: South of 600 RWHP (EDIT: It used to say North)
2) Engine and Compression: Aluminator 46X Stroked to 5.0L, .02” overbore, 3.75” stroke, 9.6:1 CR
3) Amount of boost: 16 to 18 PSI (EDIT: It used to say North of 20 PSI)
4) Type of Blower: D1SC
5) Pulley Combo: About a 3.55” SC Pulley(EDIT used to say 3.2), 10% OD Innovators West Balancer – 8 rib pulleys
6) Tensioner type: 3-bolt tensioner with 98 Cobra timing cover
7) Ported Heads? No
8) Cams? 98 Cobra cams advanced to 113/112
9) What intake: Stock
10) Intercooler: Air to Air Treadstone 1035, 50mm BOV from Raceparts Solutions
11) Exhaust Combo: Rear cat delete, Borla Pro XS
12) Fuel: 93 Octane, Aeromotive 340 fuel pump, SCT BA-5000, 60 LB fuel injectors

Other mods worth mentioning: The SB already has 4.10 gears and I am pretty sure I’ll install a 3,000 stall converter. I’ll be getting a valve job and plan on installing a cooling mod and a catch can. Rebuilding the transmission may not happen immediately, but it is something I see myself doing when I get my head above water. Any good advice? :beer:

 

[sailsmen]

A top tier tuner.

 

[MOTOWN]

Sounds like a nice build , I would go with the 15% OD balancer over the 10% for more belt wrap , and higher boost options.

Your going to need dual fuel pumps , and long tube headers/exhaust

 

[Jeronimojc]

. Your going to need dual fuel pumps , and long tube headers/exhaust

Hmmm. I was under the impression the Aeromotive 340 would be enough. It does seem it is borderline. Would a BAP be another option?


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[MOTOWN]

Hmmm. I was under the impression the Aeromotive 340 would be enough. It does seem it is borderline. Would a BAP be another option?


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Attempting north of 600 RWHP on a single aeromotive isn't a good idea! your going to want a dual pump , return style setup to get the numbers your after , and stay far away from a :bs: Boost a pump!

 

[Jeronimojc]

Thanks. I'll do some more reading on this. I don't know what it takes to set up dual pumps and I am not ready to go return style yet.

Here are some pictures of the car in its current condition (the interior is almost gone), some of the parts I have left, and some of the parts I have been buying.
My first priority is to finish parting out the car. I need more space.












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[MOTOWN]

Thanks. I'll do some more reading on this. I don't know what it takes to set up dual pumps and I am not ready to go return style yet.

Here are some pictures of the car in its current condition (the interior is almost gone), some of the parts I have left, and some of the parts I have been buying.
My first priority is to finish parting out the car. I need more space.

View attachment 39280View attachment 39281View attachment 39282View attachment 39283View attachment 39284


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I can understand you don't want to go return fuel setup yet , but north of 600RWHP is NOT going to happen on a returnless setup with a single aeromotive 340 pump, that's a pipe dream!

 

[Jeronimojc]

I can understand you don't want to go return fuel setup yet , but north of 600RWHP is NOT going to happen on a returnless setup with a single aeromotive 340 pump, that's a pipe dream!

Ok. Maybe I'll settle with less. There was nothing magical about the 600 number. Once I have the main work done I'll likely be making other improvements.

 

[99SVT]

You might want to upsize the fuel lines from the tank to rails as well. The evap hard-line is .5" and runs right beside the fuel line, if you're parting out a mm already then you'll have a ready source for it. You can use the stock supply as the return line if you're going return style.

 

[Zack]

600+ Horsepower and boost greater than 20psi, all on 93 octane?

Keep doing your homework, as you have a lot to learn.

 

[Zack]

Build your shortblock with 9.0-9.2 compression.
Pulley your blower for 16-18psi
Keep the 6 rib setup
Get a thump belt tensioner
Buy a Walbro 400 pump and convert to return style.
You need headers (didnt see them mentioned)
Use 93 Octane

Enjoy your ultra reliable 550-570rwhp and beat on it all day long.

 

[sailsmen]

Oil Report
From Blackstone Labs;
All seems well for this engine at 3,269 miles on the oil so far. Wear metals are holding pretty steady compared to the June 2013 sample, and we're not finding any excessive amounts of lead or sodium here. And the viscosity was in the proper range for a 5W/20, so this is a second perfect report in a row!
Nice! Low insolubles are showing excellent oil filtration and good combustion, and a high flashpoint is showing no fuel present in the oil. You could certainly leave this oil in place a little longer -- resample in 2,000 miles to check up on wear. Good report!

No issues to report for the transmission. Metals really haven't changed all that much since the last sample. Iron went up a tad, copper decreased a bit, but these readings are just fine after 9,755 miles onthe oil. We're not finding any excessive solids in the oil (see insolubles at a trace level), and the viscosity
was good for Mercon V. Put another 2,000 miles on this oil and check back. Keep up the good work!

Motorcraft Fluids. 82K miles and 71 1/4 passes w/ 542RWHP 1.667 7.360@92.70, 11.542@121.19.

541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
Kooks Headers & X Pipe
GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
Art Carr Built Trans , Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87
300A, Build 2002, 78 of 7839

Performance History
2,500 Miles – Chip, 4:10 Gears, Under Drive Pullies – 14.274 @ 97.05 MPH
20,257 Miles – KVR Front Rotors, PI Torque Convertor – 13.74 @ 98.33
42,882 Miles – Vortech Super Charger, Water to Air – 12.287 @ 109.74
95,000 Miles - Ford Cobra Reman
177,000 Miles & 300+ Runs Down the 1,320’

 

[Jeronimojc]

Thank you all for the input. I should point out I would rarely be pushing the car to it's max power. Having said that, you all make good points and I think it is best for me to revise the RWHP and boost target to below 600RWHP and 16-18PSI.

You might want to upsize the fuel lines from the tank to rails as well. The evap hard-line is .5" and runs right beside the fuel line, if you're parting out a mm already then you'll have a ready source for it. You can use the stock supply as the return line if you're going return style.

Honestly, the only reason why I was avoiding going return style was because this project is getting longer and longer. Given that most of you suggest going in this direction I may just have to go for it. You make an excellent point about using parts from my black MM.

Build your shortblock with 9.0-9.2 compression.
Pulley your blower for 16-18psi
Keep the 6 rib setup
Get a thump belt tensioner
Buy a Walbro 400 pump and convert to return style.
You need headers (didnt see them mentioned)
Use 93 Octane

Enjoy your ultra reliable 550-570rwhp and beat on it all day long.

I will likely stay with 9.6 compression as that's what the Aluminator comes with. The Cobra cams will lower the dynamic CR, but not much. Ford advertised dyno results for this block at almost 750HP. That's about 600 RWHP and I assumed this was on pump gas. I also noticed Fordnut was getting 660HP on pump gas and a 9.5 CR. Granted he has other mods and a big bore, but all of this is what led me to my initial conclusions. Having said this, I'll lower the RWHP target and boost, and will probably end up with a return style fuel system.


Sailsmen, I see your

541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ

on 19 psi. I believe your CR is 8.5:1 and you are using a water methanol injection system. Was this on race fuel also?

 

[Zack]

Do what I suggested. Keep it at 14 psi if you stay with 9.6:1

 

[Zack]

I had a t trim on a bone stock junkyard engine back in 04 and made 520rwhp
14psi

 

[MOTOWN]

Install an Alky control meth kit , and you can run whatever boost you like! 9:6.1 isn't high comp.

 

[sailsmen]

93 octane. 2 Tunes - Street no Meth and Race w/ Meth.

 

[Jeronimojc]

I started disconnecting hoses and wires in preparation to remove the engine. The shop manual says to remove the AC compressor, PS pump, and starter motor. Do I really need to remove these items?


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[MOTOWN]

I started disconnecting hoses and wires in preparation to remove the engine. The shop manual says to remove the AC compressor, PS pump, and starter motor. Do I really need to remove these items?


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If the A/C is working and blowing cold air then yes remove the compressor from the motor , if it hasn't worked for a while then you can disconnect the lines at the compressor as its prolly empty anyway , the P/S and the starter motor can remain on the motor , just disconnect the lines and your good to go.

 

[Zack]

If the A/C is working and blowing cold air then yes remove the compressor from the motor , if it hasn't worked for a while then you can disconnect the lines at the compressor as its prolly empty anyway , the P/S and the starter motor can remain on the motor , just disconnect the lines and your good to go.

Not possible since it bolts to the transmission bellhousing