Marauder Won't Start

B

BADNEWS

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So ill try and keep this short. There is no crank. The starter wont fire. I bench tested the old one which still works but needed replacement anyways. The new one is acting the same way of the old one if that helps. What I have done so far. Replaced battery which shows 12.6-13 volts at the battery. I replaced the starter and checked voltages at the starter (12.6 at the hot side). Put the positive lead to the hot side and the negative lead to the trigger (ignition) side and also have 12.6 so that all seems to be good. I checked the relay under the hood and swapped it with a known relay that is working. The only other thing it could be then would be the ranger selector switch correct? Before I was having problems with having to bumper the shifter or move it back and fourth to get it running so I'm assuming that switch could be going bad if not already? I've got good grounds from what I can tell. I tried starting it in neutral with no luck. What else could I try?
 
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BADNEWS said:
So ill try and keep this short. There is no crank. The starter wont fire. I bench tested the old one which still works but needed replacement anyways. The new one is acting the same way of the old one if that helps. What I have done so far. Replaced battery which shows 12.6-13 volts at the battery. I replaced the starter and checked voltages at the starter (12.6 at the hot side). Put the positive lead to the hot side and the negative lead to the trigger (ignition) side and also have 12.6 so that all seems to be good. I checked the relay under the hood and swapped it with a known relay that is working. The only other thing it could be then would be the ranger selector switch correct? Before I was having problems with having to bumper the shifter or move it back and fourth to get it running so I'm assuming that switch could be going bad if not already? I've got good grounds from what I can tell. I tried starting it in neutral with no luck. What else could I try?
Click to expand...

What is the condition of all the battery cables and grounds?
 
The cables are in good shape. No frays, knicks or corrosion. Solid connections at the battery and starter.


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Does the PATS in this car keep it from cranking or only just from starting? I know that changed at some point...
 
My '03 will have a no crank condition with Pats activated. Did you try another key?


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Jamb the shift selector into park hard and then try.
My shift cable went out of adjustment and it was rusted solid where it adjusts at the tranny so no fine tuning was possible. New cable solved it.
 
RF Overlord said:
Does the PATS in this car keep it from cranking or only just from starting? I know that changed at some point...
Click to expand...

From what I've read is the older panthers (non marauder) if pats was involved the car would crank over buy injector duty cycle was stopped so the car would not fire
On the MM you get no crank
Hope to never personally experience it!! :)
 
tbone said:
Jamb the shift selector into park hard and then try.
My shift cable went out of adjustment and it was rusted solid where it adjusts at the tranny so no fine tuning was possible. New cable solved it.
Click to expand...

When you replaced the cable, does it go all the way back to the shifter itself or is there a splice somewhere after the firewall?

I'm not sure on PATS. I have not tried a different key. I can def try that as well. Starter relay checks out good. Swapped it with another known working relay.
 
What exactly happens when you turn the key? Put your finger on the starter relay and have someone turn the key. Does it click? If it does then your fuses, ignition switch, neutral safety function are all working and the computer says it is OK to crank the engine.

If it doesn't click then remove the relay and grab your multi meter.

Is there power at the terminal that corresponds to the relay's 30 pin?

Is there power at the 85 pin when the key is in the crank position?

Is there a ground at the 86 pin when the key is in the crank position?

With the key off, trans in park, p brake on, wheel chocks, someone in the car with their foot on the brake, ect, use a wire to jumper between the 30 and 87 terminal.

Does the starter engage and turn the engine?
 
tbone said:
Cable goes from shifter through firewall back to trans. One piece.
Click to expand...

Awesome Thank you sir.

EMAS said:
What exactly happens when you turn the key? Put your finger on the starter relay and have someone turn the key. Does it click? If it does then your fuses, ignition switch, neutral safety function are all working and the computer says it is OK to crank the engine.

If it doesn't click then remove the relay and grab your multi meter.

Is there power at the terminal that corresponds to the relay's 30 pin?

Is there power at the 85 pin when the key is in the crank position?

Is there a ground at the 86 pin when the key is in the crank position?

With the key off, trans in park, p brake on, wheel chocks, someone in the car with their foot on the brake, ect, use a wire to jumper between the 30 and 87 terminal.

Does the starter engage and turn the engine?
Click to expand...

I've got lights, radio, air system kicks on and works. When I turn the key to crank position, nothing really happens. Nothing dims down or shuts off as if i had a bad battery, just nothing happens. I will try the following and report back. Thank you sir
 
EMAS said:
What exactly happens when you turn the key? Put your finger on the starter relay and have someone turn the key. Does it click? If it does then your fuses, ignition switch, neutral safety function are all working and the computer says it is OK to crank the engine.

If it doesn't click then remove the relay and grab your multi meter.

Is there power at the terminal that corresponds to the relay's 30 pin?

Is there power at the 85 pin when the key is in the crank position?

Is there a ground at the 86 pin when the key is in the crank position?

With the key off, trans in park, p brake on, wheel chocks, someone in the car with their foot on the brake, ect, use a wire to jumper between the 30 and 87 terminal.

Does the starter engage and turn the engine?
Click to expand...



Finally got a chance to do these tests. With car in park.
30 has 12V
85 0V in crank position (black lead to neg side of battery)
86 0V in crank position (red lead on pos side of battery)
30 to 87 key off, jumped- no crank


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Any ideas fellas? I might just go ahead and order a Neutral safety switch once i find the correct part number. Its giving the symptoms of a bad switch.
 
BADNEWS said:
Finally got a chance to do these tests. With car in park.
30 has 12V
85 0V in crank position (black lead to neg side of battery)
86 0V in crank position (red lead on pos side of battery)
30 to 87 key off, jumped- no crank


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Click to expand...


If 86 is connected to battery + you might want to check all connections on the side of the battery. As I recall there is a 8 gauge main wire that is on the battery junction box... I know it has been known to break, but I forget who ch functions you lose...
Have you replaced or checked the diode inside the bjb? Battery junction box

Open up the bjb and see if any wires are burnt, have you swapped relays? Swap them around! Or replace them
Bugsyc here had this issue, search his threads he has started... he fixed his
 
I checked that 8 ga wire to the fuse box and it's good. Checked fuses and swapped relays.


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