Parts List to do your Timing Chain Guides/Tensioners

291k and never had a valve cover unbolted. One of these days I'll open it up, it will be interesting to see the condition of everything inside.

Anyway, if you're going this far into the engine I believe it would be foolish to skip degreeing the cams.
 
69marquis conv said:
I have not done this on a DOHC, but I believe that would be correct if you had both tensioners off at the same time, but you should remove and replace one side at a time and lock the side you are working on, then put the tool on the other side to service that side. I believe the cam tool is referred to as the cam locking tool. You won't be adjusting the cam so I don't think you'll need a tool for that, nor do I know what that tool is. Also you will remove the four bolts that hold the PS pump, but you will most likely not be able to remove the b1tch bolt completely from the pump due to the proximity of the hydraulic line. Just leave it in the pump as use it for realigning the pump back to the engine.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the info; not dissing anyone for doing a great job maintaining their MM early on, but doing it in the 60k range seems like a bit of overkill, unless you had a problem?

Mine's running quiet for now, so think I'll wait another 30-40k or so and see how it's looking (sounding). That will get me at about 150k.

Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Super interesting, thank you. These are great engines, I wonder why Ford dropped the cast iron tensioners and went with the plastic guides in '03. Too bad they cheaped out.

I think I can do this, but need to learn how to lock the cams so I don't have to retime. I'll need to do more research on how to do that before I make the attempt. Luckily it's running quiet for now.

Great video, thanks for posting. [emoji1531]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Local speed shop just estimated cost of doing this for me at $1,567 (parts and labor). Ouch.
 
Ok so I went to the RockAuto website, they have the CLOYES 95432 & 95433.
Are those the good tensioners? Looks like they no longer have whats on the parts list.
 
Cosgrandmarquis said:
Ok so I went to the RockAuto website, they have the CLOYES 95432 & 95433.

Are those the good tensioners? Looks like they no longer have whats on the parts list.
Click to expand...



Get everything off of eBay....

See post #1 for proper parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
03Merc said:
Not necessary!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
Of course not. I was attempting a bit of irony, which apparently failed. On the other hand If one is going that far into the engine, it could be reassuring to know that you have exactly the right parts from the big blue oval fòlks. I have been told they even include all of the nuts and bolts needed for the job.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
SteelQualityMan said:
Of course not. I was attempting a bit of irony, which apparently failed. On the other hand If one is going that far into the engine, it could be reassuring to know that you have exactly the right parts from the big blue oval fòlks. I have been told they even include all of the nuts and bolts needed for the job.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



New timing cover bolts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Zack said:
Rockauto still sells the parts I have listed. Please do not spread dis-info
Click to expand...

Can you please post the link for the tensioners if they still
have the it on rockauto? It's showing me the other part numbers. Don't worry I'm not spreading any wrong info.
 
I see where the confusion was in the part numbers. They aren't listed under the Marauder, but RockAuto does indeed still have them in stock. You find them if using the general search bar at the top of the page instead of the car-specific search bar when drilling down. I was looking it all up since I'm going to try to get parts ordered soon.

Also, as a side note, figured out the leak. It's just the power steering high pressure line. Looks to be leaking where the hose is crimped to the steel line.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top