Sticky: Difference between a 2003 300A and a 300B

Blackened300a said:
There has even been 300A's with heated seats such as I believe bigdogjims. Thats why I added that there are some Marauders with 300A and 300B features combined

Keep the info coming and Ill edit it to perfection. Im just going from what I have remembered reading off the top of my head.
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Heated seats and side mirrors was an option just like the trunk organizer. So, it doesn't count in the 300A vs. 300B discussion.

I have a 300B and also have the underhood light and black valve covers. :D
 
Smaller details:

300A has 'screw on' headlight bulb rear covers. 300B is a rubber grommet.

300A has the little spoilers in front of the front wheels as a separate part while 300B has the little spoilers molded as part of the plastic cover.

Please add auto park brake release to 300A.

Also maybe add 'Instant tell-tale signs': 300B = finger pull on fuel door + no Traction Control Button by steering wheel.

Nice work.
 
Bigdogjim said:
Really? In the 300 A car ('03's) they come on with the defrost button.
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Well, now that you mention it .... I gotta go look in the book. Maybe I've been cooking my buns for nothing. :rofl: Could be that I got the idea because the option was listed together as "Heated Seats and Mirrors". I am so confused ..... I'll check back on this.
 
StevenJ said:
Are you sure that 03 300Bs have the higher stall torque convertor? I thought that was 04 only that had that.
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All 99+ CVPI and 00+ HPP use a higher stall (than base) 11.25" torque convertor, Marauder included.

For the 2004 Model Year, the Marauder's t/c was revised, now (well, then) featuring teflon seals and needle bearings. It is arguably the best t/c the AODE-derived family recieved (stock).
It is still 11.25", though.

All Ford 4r70w/4r75w/4r75e/AODE/etc. family torque convertors share similar stall speeds for their size. Ie, all 12" convertors have a similar stall speed, and all 11.25" t/cs have a similar stall speed.

Because of which, don't be suprised when you order a super-nifty 2004 Marauder torque convertor from a dealer, and recieve a 'remanufactured' Mustang GT t/c instead.
 
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Check your order guides for 2004 and you will find 300A is the code to order.. and there were no 300Bs.. or Job 2... in factory lingo for 2004
 
My 300A had heated mirrors, came on with the rear defogger.

Traction control and heated seats were promised as stock Marauder features in '03, but did not appear until the 300B production. They are stock features in '04.

Ummm...My HVBoM reports for both my '03 300A and '03 300B say...

All '03 Marauders have the 4R70W tranny, P/N 2W3P-7000-AA.
All '03 Marauders have a 2800 stall 11.25" TC, tranny part number
PKECF.
All '04 Marauders have a 2800 stall 11.25" TC, tranny part number
PKE3H.

Both versions of this tranny for the Marauder features a brazed turbine/impeller, 1" one-way clutch and gear set from the 5.4L 2V F-150. The '04 4RW75 version added the improvements listed about by Drock, i.e. teflon seals, needle bearings ect. No change in Torque convertor performance reported.

Ford reports stall speeds as engine/model specific, and written as a range, from light throttle/coasting to WOT total maximum efficiency.

Pre-'03 CV 4.6L 2V engine...2094 to 2440 RPM
Pre '03 CV/PI 4.6L 2V engine...2319-2750 RPM
'03-'04 Marauder/Mach I 4.6L 4V...2555-3011 RPM
'03-'04 CV-GM 4.6L 2V...2031-2374 RPM
All '03 and up CV/PI 4.6L 2V...2372-2808 RPM

That's what my book says. Now a note on what my Dealership parts guy says. He says that I cannot order a factory torque convertor brand new. That piece comes new only with a complete and brand new tranny assembly. You can buy a reman, and they sometimes buy Ford, and sometimes buy locally, depending on who's paying the bill. Local is a lot cheaper.

Engine code for the '03 300A is 3G-120-AA, PN 3W1Z-8052-AA, black valve covers, single knock sensor.
Engine code for the '03 300B is 3G-120-AB, PN 3W1Z-8052-AA, black valve covers, single knock sensor. Four catch codes, I don't remember the first. It was short lived, but followed by BMDO, CRD0 and CRD1.
Engine code for the '04 300A is 4G-120-AA, P/N unknown, unpainted valve covers and dual knock sensors. Catch code for all is MAV2

I now drive a 300B, it has an underhood light, and I have map pockets.*

Hope this helps, carry on gents.





*I installed the map pockets myself, can't live without them.
 
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SergntMac said:
My 300A had heated mirrors, came on with the rear defogger.
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Yep, that's what it says in my manual too !! Rear Window Defrost button also controls the heated mirrors. Man am I embarrassed. :o For three years I have been trying to turn 'em on with the heated seat button. :o Looks like I am still learnin' stuff from this site. :up:

:laugh: :laugh:

Even the wife says she knew that and she drives the MM like ..... maybe ..... twice a year. :rofl:
 
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Other unknown features...

I always have removed the underhood lightbulb on my vehicles since I had a battery go dead on my '79 F150. I had parked on a hill and the mercury switch for the underhood light was left "on".

Lo and behold, I discovered it was no longer necessary on our MM's. It seems we can leave a door, trunk, or hood open, and the light circuit turns "off" (after a while) to save the battery.

I'm sure there are other owners that didn't know this, as I believe our owners manuals don't really mention it.
 
Moving along nicely....almost ready for a final document.

You guys are still missing some things though.....:P
 
Least we forget.....

Lets not forget the over-head console in 2003 A&B is longer and
contains a small bin. 2004 model the console is alot shorter to
make room for the Moon Roof option.

Gotta Love It!:baaa:
 
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GreekGod said:
I always have removed the underhood lightbulb on my vehicles since I had a battery go dead on my '79 F150. I had parked on a hill and the mercury switch for the underhood light was left "on".

Lo and behold, I discovered it was no longer necessary on our MM's. It seems we can leave a door, trunk, or hood open, and the light circuit turns "off" (after a while) to save the battery.

I'm sure there are other owners that didn't know this, as I believe our owners manuals don't really mention it.
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Yep, every single 1995+ panther features 'battery saver', integral to the LCM.

It will turn off a lighting circuit after a pre-set amount of time elapses.
It will also diasble a circuit if it is determined to be erratic (ie a bad switch)


The head and courtesy lamps will automatically shut off after 10 mins.
The demand lighting (ie reading/map lights/under-hood lamp) is shut off after 30mins.

These times are after the last time power was activated or interrupted to any of the LCM demand, courtesy, or headlamp outputs.



These days cars use a small ball bearing tilt switch in place of the very hazardous mercury.



BTW, I saw a few ask in here. For those looking to add an underhood lamp, don't be discouraged if the wiring is not present. I added an under hood lamp to my car and it was extremely easy;
Grab yourself an underhood lamp (typically includes bulb, otherwise grab a wedge base clear bulb) and the Motorcraft pigtail ( E8EZ14489-DA for most Ford underhood lamps). Solder/heatshrink/wrap (or crimp connector if you can't solder) the new pigtail to a ~5ft length of ground wire, and ~ 10ft of positive lead wire. Run the wiring, in nice neat wire loom (make it look factory, spend the time to wrap the loom with electrical tape for OEM appearence) down the hood, and use one of those plastic push pins to secure the end of the loom in one of the holes in the hood. Then route it down towards the PCM harness area, make sure to provide harness slackl for hood opening/close. There is a ground nearby on the fender, so just run the ground lead to there. Then route your positive wire lead through one of the fire wall grommets and into the dash. From there, the easest place I found to wire it to and have access for the splice is to the glovebox door switch and lamp.
This switch/lamp is part of the LCM's demand lighting output feed, and thus is protected by the battery saver. Tap the positive lead (it is LG/OG on MMs) I prefer to cut, solder, heatshrink then wrap. A 't-tap' connector will work if you're lazy. :P

The process is the same for you cars as it was mine, You will now have a fully functional, fused, and battery saver covered under hood lamp :)

It would be a good idea to put a little di-electirc grease on the bulb's wedge abse and the lamp's connector to prevent moisture intrusion and corrosion.

Also, FYI, if the underhood lamp wiring is indeed present, it wil be around the brake booster area. A two pin connector, one LG/OG wire, one BK. Otherwise you need to tap the large c268 underhood harness connector (pita) if you don't want to run the wiring inside
 
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