Upgrading to the larger fuel filter
Fuel Filter Upgrade
The first question you may ask is “Why would I want/need to do this?” Well, if your car is stock, you probably don’t need to, and if you have a supercharger, then you should already have a high-output fuel pump. But, if you’re like me and don’t have a blower, but your car isn’t exactly stock either, then you may very well benefit from this simple mod.
Replacing the stock fuel filter with a larger unit helps prevent the dreaded lean condition caused by the design of the fuel tank. There is a set of baffles internal to the tank which can cause the motor to starve for fuel at WOT if the tank is less than ¼ full. This has been well documented by Dennis Reinhart. The larger filter provides a “reserve” if you will, to help offset this condition.
Parts needed:
Fuel Filter: Motorcraft FG800A or equivalent
New Filter Bracket: Ford F57Z-9A335-A (optional: see text)
Fuel Line Clips (2): Ford 2F1Z-9A317-AA (Note: you will only need the clips if you break the original ones removing the stock filter. Try to save them, as the new ones are $7.00…each!) (Another note: some replacement filters come with clips. Disregard any clips that are supplied with your new filter…they won’t fit the fuel lines in the Marauder, as this filter was meant for a different application).
Begin by removing the stock filter, which is located on the inside of the frame, below the right rear door. Undo the hose-clamp securing the filter to the bracket. Next, remove the fuel lines from each end. This is done by carefully prying the nylon clips out of the slip-on connectors with a small screwdriver…the key word is carefully (see the note above). Word of caution: WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Some fuel may squirt out when the first line is removed. Have a coffee can or similar container available to catch any spills…it will only be a small amount. Pull the lines off the ends of the filter and place the old filter in your coffee can.
Next comes the fun part: dealing with the bracket. Some people have modified the original bracket by bending it and using a larger clamp. Others, like me, have simply removed the old bracket, drilled another hole in the frame, and mounted the new bracket in place of the old (this requires cutting off a threaded stud on the back of the new bracket). Either method is acceptable. Remember to cover the open ends of the fuel lines with tape or something to keep any bits of metal from finding their way in if you choose the second method. Either way requires a small amount of creativity on your part…don’t panic or over-analyse this part, just be sure whatever method you choose keeps the fuel filter secure.
Once you have installed the new bracket, or modified the stock one, installation of the filter is simply the reverse of removal. Install the fuel lines onto the new filter, press the clips in place to secure the connectors, and secure the new filter to the bracket.
Before you finish the job and start to clean up, start the engine and run it for a few moments to be absolutely sure there are no leaks. Turn the key to the “Run” or “On” position for a few seconds before actually starting the engine. This ensures the new filter is filled and any air introduced is circulated through the system.
If there are no leaks, you’re done. HOWEVER: you may get a “Check Engine” light within a short time after starting the engine; mine occurred about a ½-mile down the road. DO NOT PANIC, this is normal. You have a couple of options: 1) Do Nothing…the light should go out after 3 driving cycles (A driving cycle consists of a cold engine startup followed by mixed city/highway driving). 2) If it really bugs you, and you don’t want to wait, go to any AutoZone and they will read and clear the code for you, for free. Any of the hand-held tuners from Superchips or SCT can also read and clear codes. Similarly, don’t panic if you DON’T get a check engine light; not everyone who has done this mod got a CEL…although most did.
Some members have reported that installing this new filter eliminates a slight “sag” in the engine response under heavy acceleration. I don’t recall having the sag to begin with, but other than that, you won’t notice any difference in operation. You WILL have peace of mind that your engine won’t go lean at or near WOT, and the satisfaction of a job well done.
This thread has some good additional info:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8804
HTML doesn't work in this FAQ, so you'll have to copy and paste the URL into your browser.
The first question you may ask is “Why would I want/need to do this?” Well, if your car is stock, you probably don’t need to, and if you have a supercharger, then you should already have a high-output fuel pump. But, if you’re like me and don’t have a blower, but your car isn’t exactly stock either, then you may very well benefit from this simple mod.
Replacing the stock fuel filter with a larger unit helps prevent the dreaded lean condition caused by the design of the fuel tank. There is a set of baffles internal to the tank which can cause the motor to starve for fuel at WOT if the tank is less than ¼ full. This has been well documented by Dennis Reinhart. The larger filter provides a “reserve” if you will, to help offset this condition.
Parts needed:
Fuel Filter: Motorcraft FG800A or equivalent
New Filter Bracket: Ford F57Z-9A335-A (optional: see text)
Fuel Line Clips (2): Ford 2F1Z-9A317-AA (Note: you will only need the clips if you break the original ones removing the stock filter. Try to save them, as the new ones are $7.00…each!) (Another note: some replacement filters come with clips. Disregard any clips that are supplied with your new filter…they won’t fit the fuel lines in the Marauder, as this filter was meant for a different application).
Begin by removing the stock filter, which is located on the inside of the frame, below the right rear door. Undo the hose-clamp securing the filter to the bracket. Next, remove the fuel lines from each end. This is done by carefully prying the nylon clips out of the slip-on connectors with a small screwdriver…the key word is carefully (see the note above). Word of caution: WEAR EYE PROTECTION! Some fuel may squirt out when the first line is removed. Have a coffee can or similar container available to catch any spills…it will only be a small amount. Pull the lines off the ends of the filter and place the old filter in your coffee can.
Next comes the fun part: dealing with the bracket. Some people have modified the original bracket by bending it and using a larger clamp. Others, like me, have simply removed the old bracket, drilled another hole in the frame, and mounted the new bracket in place of the old (this requires cutting off a threaded stud on the back of the new bracket). Either method is acceptable. Remember to cover the open ends of the fuel lines with tape or something to keep any bits of metal from finding their way in if you choose the second method. Either way requires a small amount of creativity on your part…don’t panic or over-analyse this part, just be sure whatever method you choose keeps the fuel filter secure.
Once you have installed the new bracket, or modified the stock one, installation of the filter is simply the reverse of removal. Install the fuel lines onto the new filter, press the clips in place to secure the connectors, and secure the new filter to the bracket.
Before you finish the job and start to clean up, start the engine and run it for a few moments to be absolutely sure there are no leaks. Turn the key to the “Run” or “On” position for a few seconds before actually starting the engine. This ensures the new filter is filled and any air introduced is circulated through the system.
If there are no leaks, you’re done. HOWEVER: you may get a “Check Engine” light within a short time after starting the engine; mine occurred about a ½-mile down the road. DO NOT PANIC, this is normal. You have a couple of options: 1) Do Nothing…the light should go out after 3 driving cycles (A driving cycle consists of a cold engine startup followed by mixed city/highway driving). 2) If it really bugs you, and you don’t want to wait, go to any AutoZone and they will read and clear the code for you, for free. Any of the hand-held tuners from Superchips or SCT can also read and clear codes. Similarly, don’t panic if you DON’T get a check engine light; not everyone who has done this mod got a CEL…although most did.
Some members have reported that installing this new filter eliminates a slight “sag” in the engine response under heavy acceleration. I don’t recall having the sag to begin with, but other than that, you won’t notice any difference in operation. You WILL have peace of mind that your engine won’t go lean at or near WOT, and the satisfaction of a job well done.
This thread has some good additional info:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8804
HTML doesn't work in this FAQ, so you'll have to copy and paste the URL into your browser.