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My 94 cougar with the AED blower could have used something like that. Giant heat factory under that hood.

Your cars body isn't rusting/sagging around the frame is it? If the trans isn't moving up to meet the body then the body is coming down to meet the trans. Simple as that, figure out which is happening. How's the trans mount?

+1 Make sure it's engine oil first before even thinking about tossing that crap down its throat. Lots of stuff on the front of the engine that hold oil, figure out what it is first.

Yeah, if the ring and pinion are fine then just replace the clutches and spider gears. I would use Ford parts to replace them, maybe somebody else knows of an alternate source.

Halfway through the rust out phase, cheesehead, she still looked halfway decent.

It was a 1980 Chevette.....so no, I let that one go.

As far as towing...LOL It has a sport suspension which is the polar opposite of a towing suspension. It would probably do it but it's gonna butt sag and give you a terrible trip. Of course I've seen much much worse vehicles with trailers. Depends on how often and how far.

I believe the FRP gears have the ratio engraved on the ring facing side of the pinion

He's a cheesehead for sure by god!

^We'd get along just fine.

That's the side of the road way to check for a misfire in your 70 Bronco. Ask me how I know. Hurts like hell don't it? Damn long tubes burning through my plug wires.

TFB, you're right but cold vs hot. At operating temp thicker oil is fine, alot of people on their commute spend very little time at operating temp though. That's why I generally recommend what the manufacturer specifies, it won't go wrong on ya. It all boils down to driving habits. As for the...

BTW those high mileage oils work great at drying up small oil leaks. For example those pesky rear main leaks in the 351's etc. As for the other claimed benefits......

Tighter tolerances is used to compare the mod motors to the old family of v8's. 5.0's, 5.8's, 7.5's etc will run whatever oil you feel like with little risk of problems. Run 10w30 or 10w40 in a mod motor and you run an increased risk of starving the heads, due to the tighter tolerances. I've...

^^^Exactly. I've been a wrench for years and haven't seen one example of oil related engine failure in a 4.6. Unless you count not changing the oil.... ever.

Who's smarter? The engineers who designed an engine, or the backyard boobs who think they know better. Trust in the manual (or TSB's) for proper oil weight. Remember, Ford doesn't want your engine to fail, it makes them look bad.

I was working at a Mercury dealership in 02 when we got our first one. Everyone was underwhelmed by its performance to price tag ratio, and it sat on the lot for the better part of a year. I liked it but couldn't afford it at the time.

That's the setup I'm running too. I think it sounds good without being ridiculous.

I got those rollers at a Farm and Fleet and they're real nice. One guy can move the thing around in tight spaces without the good ol floorjack. The ones I have aren't adjustable for width though, those 235's on 8" rims doesn't leave a whole lot of room. I don't think the 33's on the Bronco would...

Here's one on a project Scout 800 that has a 4+" hub opening, 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern, 15", around 8" wide. Who's to say what some steel wool would could do. Give me a couple days to dismount the tires and check shipping. If you're interested