12s N/A possible?

CKMustangCobra said:
With all the mods out there I don't see it being an issue at all.

Engine:

-Port/shorten intake Been done
-Head work (mill down to bump compression) it's already 10:1, but ok
-Valves springs, cams getting really expensive
-Underdrive pulleys been done
-Electric W/P been done
-Full exhaust or Just LTs with cutouts been done

Drivetrain:

-High stall TC been done
-J-mod been done
-Built trans been done
-Heavy Flexplate why?
-CF Driveshaft why?
-4.56:1 gears been done
-Lightweight Wheels... skinnies up front (less rotational loss) and some sticky meat out back been done

Suspension:

-Adjustable Shocks been done
-Tubular K-member does not exist
-4-link factory equipped, upgrades have been done
-Replace as much as possible with lightweight components not much available

Do everything possible to make it lighter.

Tune it all up.... should be deep 12s for sure. That's what all the newbies say, the ones who haven't already tried it. We just want somebody to show us it can be done instead of telling us about it without backing it up
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Still waiting for some timeslips instead of keyboard racers telling us how easy it is.
 
CKMustangCobra said:
How fast do you want to spend? LOL

Not cheap. A lot can be done myself... but it all depends on the person I guess.
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That's my point. Some of the mods you list are expensive if you group them together at once. Getting head work done can be costly. 4.56 gears will consume gas and have an associated expense. It looks like you are approaching the price of a S/C kit.
 
FordNut said:
Still waiting for some timeslips instead of keyboard racers telling us how easy it is.
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Brian..... I know you're a smart guy....... And you know what you're talking about. All we/I are trying to say is that it IS possible, maybe not by me..... maybe not by the other guy's that are gonna try..... But it IS possible..... Unfortunately you won't see a timeslip from me until somewhere around the middle of May. I had an unfortunate incident where a wire fell on my car and damaged it. My car was scheduled to have my headers, 3500 stall torque converter, new valve body and a custom dyno tune from one of the most renowned shop's in the North East. So now I have to reschedule my install date which was scheduled for this past Wednesday:(

Sean
 
=sd8683;738662 Unfortunately you won't see a timeslip from me until somewhere around the middle of May. I had an unfortunate incident where a wire fell on my car and damaged it. My car was scheduled to have my headers, 3500 stall torque converter, new valve body and a custom dyno tune from one of the most renowned shop's in the North East.

Sean
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That was no accident, Sean.... it was God telling you to slow down....
and to save your money for Red Sox tickets......
 
O's Fan Rich said:
That was no accident, Sean.... it was God telling you to slow down....
and to save your money for Red Sox tickets......
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Haha...... Rich....... No matter how much I save I'll never be able to afford sox tickets! Friggin yuppies:tantrum:
 
sd8683 said:
Brian..... I know you're a smart guy....... And you know what you're talking about. All we/I are trying to say is that it IS possible, maybe not by me..... maybe not by the other guy's that are gonna try..... But it IS possible..... Unfortunately you won't see a timeslip from me until somewhere around the middle of May. I had an unfortunate incident where a wire fell on my car and damaged it. My car was scheduled to have my headers, 3500 stall torque converter, new valve body and a custom dyno tune from one of the most renowned shop's in the North East. So now I have to reschedule my install date which was scheduled for this past Wednesday:(

Sean
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I'm just saying, virtually every one of the mods you guys have mentioned were done to my car. It still was in the low-mid 13's. Every tuner I spoke with said if I wanted more with it N/A I would have to do cams. That's a lot of $$. At that time cams alone cost about $1200-1500 plus about $1000 labor. My car was one of the very few that dyno'ed over 300 rwhp N/A so I speak from experience.
 
Brian...... Do you think you would have reached the 12's if you did the cams and head work?
 
Maybe. But it wasn't worth the price of admission. $2500 for 0.3 seconds. About $1000 per tenth. The closer you get to being maxed out, the more it costs for an incremental increase in performance.

Didn't the "rules" somewhere along the way say stock internals? or was it just stock displacement but anything else is ok?
 
FordNut said:
Maybe. But it wasn't worth the price of admission. $2500 for 0.3 seconds. About $1000 per tenth. The closer you get to being maxed out, the more it costs for an incremental increase in performance.

Didn't the "rules" somewhere along the way say stock internals? or was it just stock displacement but anything else is ok?
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I believe the rules said "stock displacement" I could be wrong though:confused:
 
I think you all need to be clearer in posts.

Thread title was 12s N/A possible. Then I read stock shortblock.... then I read stuff is too expensive. LOL

Come on.... make up your minds.

If you want 12s in a Marauder... N/A.... you WILL be revving the piss out of it, moving as much air as possible... and getting the car as light as possible.

Someone quoted me and asked WHY to a few things.

Heavy flexplate will hold more inertia on launch and keep the RPMs up.

CF driveshafts are really strong and weigh next to nothing... the less rotational loss the better. All the HP will be used to puch the car forward instead of moving drivetrain parts. This goes with skinnies up front and lightweight wheels.
 
and to the person who asked everyone to start posting proof of this....

I doubt anyone would waste the money needed to run 12s N/A when a blower or nitrous would be cheaper and keep the car more streetable.

So.... this thread is in theory... answers are also in theory.
 
Personally, the only rules I would have are:

1- stock weight ( at least 4k.....)
2- stock displacement ( no big bores or strokers.....Joe....)
3- Street legal ( Licensed, insured, DOT street tires)

All other stuff is fair game. I'd love to see an NA car do it.
 
O's Fan Rich said:
Personally, the only rules I would have are:

1- stock weight ( at least 4k.....)
2- stock displacement ( no big bores or strokers.....Joe....)
3- Street legal ( Licensed, insured, DOT street tires)

All other stuff is fair game. I'd love to see an NA car do it.
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Stock weight? That's no fun. Why would you want a heavy car?
 
CKMustangCobra said:
Someone quoted me and asked WHY to a few things.

Heavy flexplate will hold more inertia on launch and keep the RPMs up.

CF driveshafts are really strong and weigh next to nothing... the less rotational loss the better. All the HP will be used to puch the car forward instead of moving drivetrain parts. This goes with skinnies up front and lightweight wheels.
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I don't really buy the flexplate part (not with an automatic transmission), but maybe the driveshaft is true. I'll bet the ET differece between CF and MMX couldn't be measured, but it should be smoother. Nobody I've contacted about CF driveshafts recommended them for street use.

If the heavier flexplate would be a benefit then why wouldn't a heavier torque converter be beneficial? Everybody goes with smaller, lighter converters for improved performance.
 
FordNut said:
I don't really buy the flexplate part (not with an automatic transmission), but maybe the driveshaft is true. I'll bet the ET differece between CF and MMX couldn't be measured, but it should be smoother. Nobody I've contacted about CF driveshafts recommended them for street use.

If the heavier flexplate would be a benefit then why wouldn't a heavier torque converter be beneficial? Everybody goes with smaller, lighter converters for improved performance.
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there is a member on cvn that has had a cf ds for probably 3-4 years on his daily driver. he has had no issues that i am aware of. i can see why they would not be recommended though.
 
bigjon said:
there is a member on cvn that has had a cf ds for probably 3-4 years on his daily driver. he has had no issues that i am aware of. i can see why they would not be recommended though.
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I bought my carbon fiber driveshaft from PST and was the prototype for the CF driveshaft....13 lbs and it spins smooooooth!
No issues at all except for the sticker price....:eek:
I've had it on for 4+ years with plenty of 1/4 mile runs...but I don't drive mine in the winter.
 
The stock shaft weighs what?,... Gotta' be fifty + lbs, more! X2 for driveline weight, you got a >.1 ET reduction:P
Joe Walsh said:
I bought my carbon fiber driveshaft from PST and was the prototype for the CF driveshaft....13 lbs and it spins smooooooth!
No issues at all except for the sticker price....:eek:
I've had it on for 4+ years with plenty of 1/4 mile runs...but I don't drive mine in the winter.
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