2003 MM Rear end build guidance appreciated.

IndyMerc said:
superchargers are hard on the engine, perticularly the bearings.

I dont hate them, but they are expensive for an add on,
for a particular budget high or low I would rather have a high end N/A engine than a mediocre blower setup.

and personally do not think superchargers sound good. ill have to look at what is involved.
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Take it from someone who has been there....$$$

If you are building a 4.6...put some form of forced induction on it.
If you want to stay N/A....ditch the 4.6 and start with a bone stock 460 HP 5.0L Coyote.
OEM, They are light years ahead of the 4.6 technology and durability.
The problem is matching up the computer systems.
BUT... I cant' wait until someone puts a 2018 5.0L Coyote with the new 10 speed auto into a Marauder.
THAT will be the ultimate N/A mod motor Marauder.

An easy 400+ RWHP with a stout 10 speed auto and 7,500 rpm shifts!
Plus better drivability and great MPG.
 
they do all sorts of fabrication welding on old hot rods and drag cars that is quite good.

I just want it reinforced.

also he said they did three times around, had to tig it because of the two different metals and some other stuff I do not recall.

I would just as soon get a twin turbo 4.6 set up over a stock coyote.
are they really that much better? seems hard to believe. the mach 1 03 and the 16 gt i was in felt almost the same, don't know if any mods were done to the mach but It was not under forced induction.

a built 4.6 turbo seems a no brainer over an oem coyote.
 
justgod said:
Did your welder have a glass eye or an eye patch? :D
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justbob said:
Wow. He is actually a legit welder? Look at the inconsistency, poor to no penetration, and porosity.
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justgod said:
I remember making my very first stick welds like that in junior high shop class. I was so proud!
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I'm not a welder,
( I have taken welding classes at the local VoTech....and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express!)
but I must agree with what the other posters have said;
Those welds look like crap....hopefully he had the steel axle tubes clamped in a fixture while 'welding' them to the cast iron center section.
 
Well I tend to agree, I can only hope that based on the other work of theirs I have seen that towards the end he got a little more rushed.

You can see where he worked it over in sections I guess the question is how do I check it?

After looking at the shop staff, My guess is that he did the one side himself, the older guy

and the first few passes on the other side and let his new guy have a go after he did the the under stuff on the second side. To learn feeling that he couldn't "hurt it"

Is the quality of the weld job enough to consider not using it?

I will agree that from now on I will do all the work myself regardless of what additional skills I need to learn.

I rarely expect the best in life and work out of other people but Crap definitely agitates me.

That being said a world class welding job show piece is not needed. this is not a show car by any means. I want to build it up to be driven for another decade or two with more power.

That being said I would appreciate being able to ask Seneca about his turbo build and any links to his posts would be great.

I have read that marauder blocks are a little thicker, I have no reservations against using the stock engine for a twin turbo rebuild. wouldn't mind a forged crank like the mach 1 manual came with. don't think a 4340 is necessary.
 
These blocks and cranks can withstand big power, just ditch the rods and pistons.

The heads flow great as well, just a simple valve job and good to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
What a properly welded 8.8 etc. looks like:
 

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I will be sure and show this to the shop owner.

I will give him a heads up that I did not know about such a reaction would occur when posting and That I want to give him an opportunity to view the situation before I make any determination.

It sounds like, or atleast the impression I get is that I should not go forward with this in its current state. I do not care about the visual aspect merely the integrity of the part.

Thanks for the link to the turbo thread. Very much appreciated.
 
IndyMerc said:
I will be sure and show this to the shop owner.

I will give him a heads up that I did not know about such a reaction would occur when posting and That I want to give him an opportunity to view the situation before I make any determination.

It sounds like, or atleast the impression I get is that I should not go forward with this in its current state. I do not care about the visual aspect merely the integrity of the part.

Thanks for the link to the turbo thread. Very much appreciated.
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I'll be honest with you. Both sides of the metals should be freshly sanded/ground to bare metal and good tack welds at opposite sides at minimum before complete welding, which should be done in some sort of jig. Even the Miller welders manual online I believe mentions tube welds with straightness a priority and how to accomplish this. Metal will expand and shrink with heat and cooling. If those aren't straight, you will go though wheel bearings and possibly odd tire wear. Maybe even diff fluid leaking. Just be aware. Also be aware with how you bring this up as the last thing you want to do is piss off the guy welding on your car.
 
well they spray painted it down to prevent the welds from rusting with rust coloured paint, the irony is not lost on me....

I know for a fact it was ground to clean metal before they welded it I saw it prepped before welding.

This shop literally has welded and fabricated hundred of cars over a 25 year period if not more I don't see it being possible for them not to know.

I just do not know how to explain this really considering the work they have done for other customers.

as far as the owner is concerned I am not trying to offend him, but i do not care if i do they wont be allowed near my car again. And to be honest if this is what was needed for me to plop the money down on a welder and start learning so be it.

My dreams will not be held ransom to crap welders.

To be honest I am not sure if I am going to chance it.

I guess at this point I will see how everything looks and feels during assembly. I know that's not a scientific way to tell but If its messed up because of that I will hand him a folder of documentation explaining what a shop of that type should be capable of, and what potential carelessness does and costs someone as a result.

thank you for the insight.
 
Has anyone had any experience using the combined seal axle bearings?


such as the CENTRIC 41464000

https://www.carid.com/centric/premium-rear-axle-shaft-repair-bearing-mpn-414-64000.html?view=445535&gclid=Cj0KCQiArenfBRCoARIsAFc1FqfJjI0cFOmyK-e3tbwdx8bhRA0Yho2UXIqoH9d-Pz_54Kw0F-z9GH8aAh9ZEALw_wcB

or

National Bearing Wheel Bearings NNTRP5707


since there is more material and what looks like a built in race, I would Like to go with that style.

Just not sure if anyone can confirm the fitment. I read one forum where a person said its not compatible with parking brake, and another that basically said it does.
 
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