MOTOWN
S/C 20" MINI TUBBED WHEEL GUY!
I was wondering why the PST shaft (slip yoke) seems to be a couple inches shorter, but that would explain what Joe Walsh was talking about with splines not present for the first 2 3/8" of the slip yoke.
2004 Cobra Engine + Whipple Planned for Marauder Install
- Thread starter JoeBoomz
- Start date
I was wondering why the PST shaft (slip yoke) seems to be a couple inches shorter, but that would explain what Joe Walsh was talking about with splines not present for the first 2 3/8" of the slip yoke.
Comin' in Hot
Supporting Member
Make sure the trans has a long output shaft and long tail housing for the marauder or CVPI, if it's the one from the mustang or civilian CV or MGM, your driveshaft will be too short and you will need a 1" spacer.
I also noticed you say you have 1350 u-joints, inland empire is the only one I could find that makes a 1350 yoke for a 4r70w. You could use an AOD yoke as the splines are the same, but then you will need an AOD tail housing because the outer slip yoke diameter is slightly smaller.
I only know all this because I went through driveline hell. And don't want to see you go through the same thing.
I also noticed you say you have 1350 u-joints, inland empire is the only one I could find that makes a 1350 yoke for a 4r70w. You could use an AOD yoke as the splines are the same, but then you will need an AOD tail housing because the outer slip yoke diameter is slightly smaller.
I only know all this because I went through driveline hell. And don't want to see you go through the same thing.
Comin' in Hot
Supporting Member
If you happen to need a spacer, I have one with the correct bolts that I no longer need
Comin' in Hot
Supporting Member
If your splines aren't recessed and you have 1350 u-joints, it sounds like it's an AOD yoke.
JoeBoomz
Stock motor OUT, Cobra one IN!
Awesome info, thanks a ton. I'll get in touch with TCI to confirm it will be plug-and-play for us. I really appreciate your taking the time to post this.
We know the yoke is correct because it fits perfectly into the factory transmission we pulled from the car. We'll just have to ensure the tail shaft length is correct.
:beer:
Comin' in Hot
Supporting Member
You might want to call you driveshaft manufacturer and find out exactly what that yoke it is first, the AOD yoke's outer barrel diameter is smaller by like a few thousandths. Unless they do something I never heard of. Most of my info comes from Denny's driveshaft and Dynotech. I also know for sure that's not an Inland Empire yoke because they have a bolt-in style u-joint mounting caps.
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Zack
Turbo Marauder
I really wish you guys would have welded a sump to the bottom of the tank, or removed that basket.
That is dangerous to the engine the way its all configured. Did you bother to check the clearance between the bottom of the fuel socks and floor of the tank? Its a crucial measurement.
In any case, awesome work!
That is dangerous to the engine the way its all configured. Did you bother to check the clearance between the bottom of the fuel socks and floor of the tank? Its a crucial measurement.
In any case, awesome work!
JoeBoomz
Stock motor OUT, Cobra one IN!
Sadly, no, it's been taking a lot of time to get mounting brackets needed fabbed up exactly as needed, and we've been doing lots of "little" things like running wiring for gauges and power, putting holes through the firewall, etc.
In the meantime I've been looking for transmission builders, because TCI turned out not being a good solution. They didn't know about the different tail shaft lengths and weren't willing to guarantee us the transmission would fit the Marauder. In the end I just ordered a bunch of parts from PATC and the tail shaft lube mod from Blue Oval, and we'll get the rebuild done locally.
Hopefully we get the motor put in sometime mid-august and have the transmission rebuilt close to the same time, so we can get somewhere close to where we can start to tune the car!
MOTOWN
S/C 20" MINI TUBBED WHEEL GUY!
Go with Lentech , there in Canada , http://www.lentechautomatics.com/aodproducts.html
Comin' in Hot
Supporting Member
My car has a Lentech trans, it's a great piece. It was put in my car before I bought it. When I was ordered nobody thought about the different tail shaft/ housing and it came with the shorter parts. As I stated earlier this was because of a lot of my issues. Once I figured out I called Lentech. They told me they only use a short tail shaft because it's stronger than the long one. But if I sent the transmission back and swap it out for thousand dollars, not bad considering it requires a complete tear down of the transmission. So if you order from them, just verify what it's going in and that you need the longer parts.
JoeBoomz
Stock motor OUT, Cobra one IN!
SEP 2014 Updates
Time for some updates on this "epic" (timing) project.
TRANSMISSION - we said screw it with all of the big rebuilders - they all want an arm, leg and left nut for a rebuilt transmission, and that doesn't even include shipping to where we are. Seriously, I bought my complete Cobra pull for less than they're asking.
So instead, we bought a master rebuild kit from PATC (#12 on this crazy webpage: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/aode.htm)
We also got this tailshaft forced lube cooling mod from Blue Oval: http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=74
With winter approaching again, we've been working on it less and less and only on weekends. Courtesy of Alberta, here's what we had a week ago (Sep 8):
Lots of wiring being done now, the same amount as I showed in my stereo install thread and most of the same steps. We have also been mounting gauges and running wires:
I never cared for the ricer pod before, but now that I have it all set up in Dad's car, it's starting to grow on me. One problem is it takes away from the sleeper aspect of the car.
Finishing up all the measuring, fitting, and mounting of the coolers:
(engine oil and trans fluid coolers made be DERALE)
Hot marauders go slow. Dad doesn't want a slow marauder. This is a $1400 FLUIDYNE radiator and DERALE set of fans and shroud.
I am looking forward to datalogging his car vs. mine (with stock rad and smaller fan) and comparing the engine temp differences. The car really likes to retard the spark at elevated temperatures.
The cooler at the bottom is for steering fluid. This car is getting the best of everything.
Time for some updates on this "epic" (timing) project.
TRANSMISSION - we said screw it with all of the big rebuilders - they all want an arm, leg and left nut for a rebuilt transmission, and that doesn't even include shipping to where we are. Seriously, I bought my complete Cobra pull for less than they're asking.
So instead, we bought a master rebuild kit from PATC (#12 on this crazy webpage: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/aode.htm)
...without their 1800 stall converter, and then added a hardened intermediate shaft to the order. We will have a local guy rebuild our working low miles transmission for under 2K and save about 3K getting one built by the other guys. The JMOD steps are covered in the Fairbanks TransAction Kit, which comes with improved springs as well.
We also got this tailshaft forced lube cooling mod from Blue Oval: http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=74
With winter approaching again, we've been working on it less and less and only on weekends. Courtesy of Alberta, here's what we had a week ago (Sep 8):
Lots of wiring being done now, the same amount as I showed in my stereo install thread and most of the same steps. We have also been mounting gauges and running wires:
I never cared for the ricer pod before, but now that I have it all set up in Dad's car, it's starting to grow on me. One problem is it takes away from the sleeper aspect of the car.
Finishing up all the measuring, fitting, and mounting of the coolers:
(engine oil and trans fluid coolers made be DERALE)
Hot marauders go slow. Dad doesn't want a slow marauder. This is a $1400 FLUIDYNE radiator and DERALE set of fans and shroud.
I am looking forward to datalogging his car vs. mine (with stock rad and smaller fan) and comparing the engine temp differences. The car really likes to retard the spark at elevated temperatures.
The cooler at the bottom is for steering fluid. This car is getting the best of everything.
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JoeBoomz
Stock motor OUT, Cobra one IN!
ALTERNATOR MOUNTING
Here's our solution to the Alternator mounting problem.
The alternator is using the Cobra mounting spot, but we've rotated it upwards and have connected it to the upper pulley bridge via this bracket. The ABS module in the car was removed, so we should have space for it in the engine compartment. We'll find out for sure when we finally drop the motor in
Dad's machine shop also threw together a quick PCV connector that looks great:
We need to finish up some more wiring before we drop the engine in, it's much easier to run through the firewall with the engine removed. But after that we're ready to put the motor in, and get the transmission rebuilt in the meantime. We likely won't be driving it until spring, but the end is in sight.
Here's our solution to the Alternator mounting problem.
The alternator is using the Cobra mounting spot, but we've rotated it upwards and have connected it to the upper pulley bridge via this bracket. The ABS module in the car was removed, so we should have space for it in the engine compartment. We'll find out for sure when we finally drop the motor in
Dad's machine shop also threw together a quick PCV connector that looks great:
We need to finish up some more wiring before we drop the engine in, it's much easier to run through the firewall with the engine removed. But after that we're ready to put the motor in, and get the transmission rebuilt in the meantime. We likely won't be driving it until spring, but the end is in sight.
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sflrainmaker01
RescuRauder
Very nice! :up: Do I sense new eaton swap alt brackets?.......