2004 Cobra Engine + Whipple Planned for Marauder Install

Other Pictures

Here is a picture of the many pieces that come with the transmission kit:

P1050238.JPG




This is a custom made oil filter adapter connector, to reroute the oil lines from the engine to the oil cooler and through the PH8A-sized filter we use from the TransDapt kit.

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Next I will post some datalogs that were collected so far this year that show that the extra effort was well worth it for the cooling and fuel ;)
 
DATALOGS

Datalogging this car has been great, affirming design decisions and money spent on parts. Here are a number of charts from one of our first datalogs we did a few weeks back.

Note we still have some dialing in to do - some things are still off in the tune. We haven't been to a dyno yet to check numbers yet either.



Here's a look at a nice pull from idle. The RPM is in blue
- starting at 1000RPM (we were stopped) at 877 seconds (on the bottom)
- then going up to 6500 rev limiter 878 seconds, wheels spinning
- driver came off the pedal to get traction at 878.5 seconds to 879 seconds
- shift from 1-2 happens at RPM drop at 882 seconds
- 2-3 shift at 885
- Long pull in 3rd from 886-892, then driver let off the gas
- Torque Converter lockup appears in 2nd at 880.25 seconds (see the dip in RPM)

Datalog1.jpg





This chart shows us how our fuel supply is keeping up.

The fuel rail pressure is in purple, values on the Y-axis at the left side. It looks jaggedy, but the bumps are within 0.5 PSI – very small variance
- Steady between 42 and 42.5 while idling between 875-877 seconds
- It jumps as the third fuel pump kicks in, near 877.5
- It drops again as the boost goes away around 893-894 seconds and the third pump turns off again
- The whole run we don’t go anywhere below 41.5 PSI. This is WAY different than my car with a return system where I can see it dipping below sometimes, down to 35 PSI even, or spiking a ton after a run.

Datalog2.jpg





Watch the coolant temp climb from 178F to 198F through this pull.

Datalog3.jpg




At 986 seconds we are back to 182F while cruising at 2100 RPM (1.5 minutes later!)

Datalog4.jpg





Look how closely the airflow (MAF Counts) matches the engine RPM’s (while the throttle blade is open)

Datalog5.jpg


On my Vortech Marauder, the MAF counts climb exponentially to the engine RPM - with a roots-style blower where the power is almost linear across all RPM's, the MAF counts climb in a fashion similar to the RPM.




Here is the air fuel mixture, supposed to be at 12, in actuality it was at 12.5 most of the run (more air than fuel expected)

Datalog6.jpg


So we know to adjust the MAF table (increase the amount of air) to bring it closer in line to what the airflow actually was - so more fuel is added to get us to the demanded 12 A/F.



Throttle position, driver had it all the way down except for when he tried to get traction back at the start (this is why the a/f jumped up to 17.5 in the above chart instead of staying at 12 the whole run)

Datalog7.jpg


Notice when the driver comes off the pedal at the end, the air fuel went to 20 – the coasting fuel shutoff is enabled so the engine is slowing the car down and no fuel is being used.



Voltage:

Datalog8.jpg


Voltage was maintained throughout the whole run, no lack of power for the fuel pumps and injectors!

Look at the voltage jump up at the end when the driver comes off the pedal! This is probably the third fuel pump turning off again.



This is the intake air temp:

Datalog9.jpg


It climbs from 122F to 152F in this run (heat from the air going through the intercooler), and drops back down to 122F 89 seconds later:

Datalog10.jpg


Back to 122F at 982 seconds in the log.


So both our engine coolant and air intake temperatures will come down back to normal after about 1.5 minutes of cruise in the car...



Hit the 10-image limit, continued in next post...
 
DATALOGS

...continued from previous post...


Trans temp, this one has me a bit skeptical about the factory sensor especially after seeing the gauge added to the car.

- At around 204F when cruising at 870 seconds.
- Then we stop and it climbs (the torque converter is spinning while we are stopped???)
- Then the driver put the pedal down and the temperature goes DOWN for some reason, before bottoming out at 205F, then a gradual climb to 216F at 903 seconds
- Temperature stays high during coasting (when the fuel is off, the torque converter is locked, should be minimal heat generation)

Datalog11.jpg



Got it back to 207F at 1001 seconds, 98 seconds later. So it takes about 1 minute and 40 seconds to come back down in temperature, according to this.

Datalog12.jpg




The fact that it takes so long to get the trans temp up after the pull leads me to think that Ford has their sensor on the return from the cooler and it takes extra time for the hotter fluid to make the circle back to the casing where it is being sensed. (???)






This one is OPEN LOOP DESIRED (equals 0 or 1 true or false)
When you put the pedal down, the car goes into Open loop mode.

Closed loop is when the ECU learns the air fuel mixture on its own based on the 02 sensors (all it knows is “too rich” or “too lean” and bounces back and forth).

When it goes open loop, it relies entirely on the pre-programmed MAF table, the MAF counts (which is has from the MAF sensor), and the amount of fuel required in the pre-programmed fuel table in the tune, to give the correct amount of fuel to the engine.

So having the MAF table correct in the tune is essential to having the correct air/fuel mixture when you are doing a pull. Too rich or too lean and the engine could be damaged.

Here you can see it goes open loop almost instantly when you floor it. This is where I can do the tuning because I know it isn’t relying on any learning to get the air/fuel.
The fact that we got 12.5 instead of 12 shows we were ~4% off, so I adjust the MAF table by ~4% in those locations so next time, it thinks we have more air and adds that 4% extra fuel to bring it down to 12 for next time.

Datalog13.jpg








Coasting fuel shutoff is a 0/1 like the open loop desired.
Dark blue in this chart is the coast fuel shutoff flag.
I left air/fuel in this chart too (green)
Here you can see at the end when we entered coasting mode, and the fuel shut off at 896 seconds. A/F goes to 20 (all air, no fuel)

Datalog14.jpg





This is a different pull than the above charts, this one shows us going through all of the gears in the car.
Blue = RPM
Brown = Throttle Position
Purple = Fuel Rail Pressure


Datalog15.jpg




That's about it for today's update, 4 hours later :)
Hope there's something useful for someone in all of this, don't hesitate to ask questions or want higher res pictures of something.
 
Last edited:
What a great update, and data to go with it! Looks beautiful. High capacity in the heat exchanger, fans, electric and fuel will serve you well.
 
A quick update here for informational purposes, sorry no new pics (unless you want to see car show pics here).


- Too much tires spinning. Went from 4:10 back to 3:55's. :D

- Tried a 4lb lower, which brought the boost up to 24.5PSI at 4500RPM. Blower was still efficient here, but barely. Makes lots of heat and caused spark issues (blew out the spark). Had to retard the timing too much to keep using pump gas (94 octane).
Went back to stock size lower, able to bring the spark up again, car is running awesome.

Had it on rollers but that was when we had the 4lb lower on the car and it wasn't running smoothly past 4500RPM. Couldn't tell by driving it on the street, but the rollers are able to show dips in power clearly. I don't know if we'll have a chance to get a dyno HP number this year, will try (snow flies early here), and it's already 10c outside at night with trees turning yellow.
 
I can definitely relate to swapping gears , I'll be going back to 3:55s , or 3:73s whatever I can get a deal on , but the 4:10s have to go.
 
A quick update here for informational purposes, sorry no new pics (unless you want to see car show pics here).


- Too much tires spinning. Went from 4:10 back to 3:55's. :D

- Tried a 4lb lower, which brought the boost up to 24.5PSI at 4500RPM. Blower was still efficient here, but barely. Makes lots of heat and caused spark issues (blew out the spark). Had to retard the timing too much to keep using pump gas (94 octane).
Went back to stock size lower, able to bring the spark up again, car is running awesome.

Had it on rollers but that was when we had the 4lb lower on the car and it wasn't running smoothly past 4500RPM. Couldn't tell by driving it on the street, but the rollers are able to show dips in power clearly. I don't know if we'll have a chance to get a dyno HP number this year, will try (snow flies early here), and it's already 10c outside at night with trees turning yellow.



Jesus the though of seeing 24 psi and knowing there is pump gas in the tank would scare the hell out of me. Do you have the torque numbers it made/graph showing what it made before 4500 rpm?


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Jesus the though of seeing 24 psi and knowing there is pump gas in the tank would scare the hell out of me. Do you have the torque numbers it made/graph showing what it made before 4500 rpm?

No clear results on the dyno, the power output was too spotty and we aborted before spending too much time on it. We spent the time working on my Vortech car instead.

Funny how there is no sign of that in street driving; it really shows how much better the rollers are for tuning and testing when you get into the high horsepower...

We knew we would be at the limit with pump gas and have considered using better fuel to push further. We don't have any 100 octane around here, 94 is the best there is :(

At the end of the day, the car needs to be enjoyed, not sit in a garage. Being able to roll into a gas station to fill is a big factor!
 
No clear results on the dyno, the power output was too spotty and we aborted before spending too much time on it. We spent the time working on my Vortech car instead.

Funny how there is no sign of that in street driving; it really shows how much better the rollers are for tuning and testing when you get into the high horsepower...

We knew we would be at the limit with pump gas and have considered using better fuel to push further. We don't have any 100 octane around here, 94 is the best there is :(

At the end of the day, the car needs to be enjoyed, not sit in a garage. Being able to roll into a gas station to fill is a big factor!


Sorry I mean to ask torque numbers below 4500. I agree on the last part also.




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