4.10 gears.

I've got one with 4.10s and one with 3.55s. If I were you, I'd get the tuner from Lidio first and see how you like it. You can easily have him include the tune for 4.10s with your tuner. If you're unhappy with just the tune then you can have the gears done and just install the tune for the gears. It will take all of 5 minutes. I'm betting that you will be VERY impressed with just the tune. I did the gears first on mine, and then bought the tune. If I had it to do over again, I would just have gotten the tune. Good luck with the mods. You will enjoy it whether you do one or both!
 
Hey MM world,
This forum is awesome. Im a newby to the MM world. My car is with Lidio as we speak getting a beefed up trans and tune. I'm really considering getting 4.10 gears, but im really not sure what to do. Need help~!!!!!!! Is it really that noticable diff with the gears? Does the gears change over all effect and durability of the car, with daily driving?
 
Hey MM world,
This forum is awesome. Im a newby to the MM world. My car is with Lidio as we speak getting a beefed up trans and tune. I'm really considering getting 4.10 gears, but im really not sure what to do. Need help~!!!!!!! Is it really that noticable diff with the gears? Does the gears change over all effect and durability of the car, with daily driving?

4.10's = more Wreeeeeeeeedom!!

You can't go wrong getting them. They were originally supposed to come installed from the factory. But jagbag non-car enthusiast changed that. Plus millions (:lol:) of other Marauder owners have changed over to 4.10's with no issues and love them.

I love my 4.10's. The off the line get up and go is sweeeeeeeet!!


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!
 
Give me a break! I've had my 4.10's installed for over 60k miles. Never had a problem with the transmission tailshaft.

Definitely agree here. I bought an MMX driveshaft from DR when I did my gear swap. Even neglecting the incompetence on DR's part for that transaction, I feel that was the most honest waste of money I made in my MM. I am hesitant to even fully believe what is said about it now, unless I can get some reputable source to tell me otherwise, and of course a source other than DR (a big part of why I kind of don't believe why I would've needed it in the first place.)

Hey MM world,
This forum is awesome. Im a newby to the MM world. My car is with Lidio as we speak getting a beefed up trans and tune. I'm really considering getting 4.10 gears, but im really not sure what to do. Need help~!!!!!!! Is it really that noticable diff with the gears? Does the gears change over all effect and durability of the car, with daily driving?

You know, I hate to be critical on a new person, since I don't want you to feel unwelcome, but did you even read anything that was posted in this thread before you posted in it?

You should find all the info you need about your question with the exception of someone explicitly telling you whatever it is you specifically want to hear if you go back and read them. Driveability, fuel economy, engine wear, fun-factor, etc....

The one thing I will say that I don't think anyone else has said (possibly because my experience may not have been the same as everyone else), is that my 4.10 Marauder ran almost neck-and-neck with a 3.55 Marauder from a roll. From a dig there is a pretty significant difference, but if you are the type that likes to partake in roll racing, THAT may be a serious reason to not do 3.55 rear gear (because frankly I don't think it'll really help all that much). Maybe someone else can chime in to that effect as well, or maybe someone can tell me I just had bad luck....
 
The one thing I will say that I don't think anyone else has said (possibly because my experience may not have been the same as everyone else), is that my 4.10 Marauder ran almost neck-and-neck with a 3.55 Marauder from a roll. From a dig there is a pretty significant difference, but if you are the type that likes to partake in roll racing, THAT may be a serious reason to not do 3.55 rear gear (because frankly I don't think it'll really help all that much). Maybe someone else can chime in to that effect as well, or maybe someone can tell me I just had bad luck....

One thing I do miss from not having 3.55's is the bigger down shift from 3 to 2 gear while driving at highway speeds.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!
 
Definitely agree here. I bought an MMX driveshaft from DR when I did my gear swap. Even neglecting the incompetence on DR's part for that transaction, I feel that was the most honest waste of money I made in my MM. I am hesitant to even fully believe what is said about it now, unless I can get some reputable source to tell me otherwise, and of course a source other than DR (a big part of why I kind of don't believe why I would've needed it in the first place.)



You know, I hate to be critical on a new person, since I don't want you to feel unwelcome, but did you even read anything that was posted in this thread before you posted in it?

You should find all the info you need about your question with the exception of someone explicitly telling you whatever it is you specifically want to hear if you go back and read them. Driveability, fuel economy, engine wear, fun-factor, etc....

The one thing I will say that I don't think anyone else has said (possibly because my experience may not have been the same as everyone else), is that my 4.10 Marauder ran almost neck-and-neck with a 3.55 Marauder from a roll. From a dig there is a pretty significant difference, but if you are the type that likes to partake in roll racing, THAT may be a serious reason to not do 3.55 rear gear (because frankly I don't think it'll really help all that much). Maybe someone else can chime in to that effect as well, or maybe someone can tell me I just had bad luck....

Im still learning how to navigate through this mass of info. Thanks for the insight. No pun taken. Im just trying to learn as much as possible about the MM. Hopefully i can find some local club around the Metro DTW. Thanks once again:beer:
 
Definitely agree here. I bought an MMX driveshaft from DR when I did my gear swap. Even neglecting the incompetence on DR's part for that transaction, I feel that was the most honest waste of money I made in my MM.


The one thing I will say that I don't think anyone else has said (possibly because my experience may not have been the same as everyone else), is that my 4.10 Marauder ran almost neck-and-neck with a 3.55 Marauder from a roll. From a dig there is a pretty significant difference, but if you are the type that likes to partake in roll racing, THAT may be a serious reason to not do 3.55 rear gear (because frankly I don't think it'll really help all that much). Maybe someone else can chime in to that effect as well, or maybe someone can tell me I just had bad luck....

Yep, you had bad luck. You got 4.10's and 'drove it like you stole it' (without a proper break-in) and not surprisingly blew up your rear end and transmission. You never recovered, had problems, was never the same and you sold your MM.
 
I've got one with 4.10s and one with 3.55s. If I were you, I'd get the tuner from Lidio first and see how you like it. You can easily have him include the tune for 4.10s with your tuner. If you're unhappy with just the tune then you can have the gears done and just install the tune for the gears. It will take all of 5 minutes. I'm betting that you will be VERY impressed with just the tune. I did the gears first on mine, and then bought the tune. If I had it to do over again, I would just have gotten the tune. Good luck with the mods. You will enjoy it whether you do one or both!

This^

Get yourself the tune first and see how you like that. If you need something more than add gears down the road.

I waited around for 3 years to put gears in my car mainly cause I was worrying about other parts of the car but after having stock gears for so long and then changing to 4.10s I can appreciate and enjoy the noticeable difference in performance they offer. I do about 60 mi round trip x5 everyweek, sometimes I take the Marauder and it makes passing ppl a whole lot easier and funner. :lol:
 
Going with the tune and putting the rear end on the back burner for now. Thanks to everyone for the input! This is hands down the best forum I've ever been involved with.
 
Im still learning how to navigate through this mass of info. Thanks for the insight. No pun taken. Im just trying to learn as much as possible about the MM. Hopefully i can find some local club around the Metro DTW. Thanks once again:beer:

Go to motorcitymarauders.com

I've had a NA MM with 4.10's and now a S/C'd one with 3.55's.

It depends on your plans, if you are going to remain NA, do the 4.10's.
Noticeable from a dig.
 
Yep, you had bad luck. You got 4.10's and 'drove it like you stole it' (without a proper break-in) and not surprisingly blew up your rear end and transmission. You never recovered, had problems, was never the same and you sold your MM.

Yep, rear gears was why my transmission broke. :shake:

Get a clue guy.
 
I'm in the same boat as others thinkin about a tune from Lidio and 4.10's (Does anyone know if Lidio has a package for both?)

My 03 Marauder has 75k on it, any thing else I should be considering?
 
Yep, you had bad luck. You got 4.10's and 'drove it like you stole it' (without a proper break-in) and not surprisingly blew up your rear end and transmission. You never recovered, had problems, was never the same and you sold your MM.


You don't need to "break in" gears. Its BS. If they are installed right you will have no issues. Let the :argue: begin....
 
You don't need to "break in" gears. Its BS. If they are installed right you will have no issues. Let the :argue: begin....

You are smarter than all of the people at Richmond Gear (may want to call them)

BREAK IN
A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.
Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need approximately 200-300 miles of normal street driving before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, the let cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the break in procedures.


There are thousands of more examples -- check with ANY ring and gear manufacturer and they'll tell you to break in new gears and they'll tell you why. Or you can go with just some dumb random guy on the internet who proclaims 'you ain't gotta'
 
You are smarter than all of the people at Richmond Gear (may want to call them)

Ok, I am sure that someone else will agree with me. Just curious what would need to be "broken in" if the install was within specs? Please let me know. I am not being a dick. Just curious what would happen if they were installed correctly and "not broken in"
 
BREAK IN
A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.
Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for 30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need approximately 200-300 miles of normal street driving before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, the let cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven short distances and heat is not normally a problem with proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the break in procedures.


There are thousands of more examples -- check with ANY ring and gear manufacturer and they'll tell you to break in new gears and they'll tell you why. Or you can go with just some dumb random guy on the internet who proclaims 'you ain't gotta'

And FYI Richmond Gear or any other manufacturer posts this disclaimer as a CYA only. They don't need 15 year old dildos coming back to them because they installed it with a 3/8 drive Harbor Tool set saying their gears blew up their diff. If you have ever installed any R&P you would know you did it the right way and would have confidence in your work.
 
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