4:10's????

Lower Atf Temps W/4.10 Gears

:beatnik: No one has mentioned the likely-hood of lower tranny fluid temps w/higher numerical rear gears. A highway driven car w/4.10 gears would have cooler ATF than the same car w/3.55 gears, assuming an inadequate ATF cooler. [Think of riding a 10 speed bike in 10th gear or 5th gear all the time] p.s.:my 1966 Ford XL got 3 to 5 mpg in town w4.57 gears![9.5 cr 428/C6]
 
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Your 66 Ford got such poor mileage w/4.56's because it didn't have an overdrive transmission like our Marauders do, and there were more cubes under the hood as well. As far as the comment about the transmission running cooler, I don't see why that would be when 4.56 gears require the transmission and driveshaft to turn at a greater speed than 3.55 gears will. So I think if anything, you have that backwards.
 
4:10's

I just drove my 4:30's 600 miles and got 20mpg. The 4:10's will be wonderful. Do buy the better drive shaft so you don't worry about the triple digits.

John

60sec_assassin said:
will 4:10's actually hurt the mm top end performance and gas mileage?? i just wanted to ask some people who had them already to see if they are worth putting in...:cool:
 
One reason you may see a drop in MPG is that you find yourself getting on it more to feel the increase in off the line acceleration. Otherwise, at cruising speed, the RPM's are only a few 100 rev's higher than with the stock gears.
 
The following is a list of the RPM differences of some of the gear ratios available for our cars. The RPM listings should be fairly accurate (within 50 RPM's) as long as you have the stock tire height on your Marauder (the back tires):



gear ratio....... RPM@70MPH in O/D

3.55................... 2,080

3.70................... 2,168

4.10.................... 2,402

4.30................... 2,520

4.56................... 2,672

4.88................... 2,859

5.13................... 3,006

...for those who want to experiment more, and find out the RPM ratings for 3rd gear (w/out O/D) or any other gear with any of the gear ratios then below is a link to the gear calculator......


http://www.richmondgear.com/101032.html
 
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So..Lets say I have a stock MM and want to go the 4:10's. Can I drive down to Ford and have them installed? And will they also re-tune the car? Reason why is I live in Colorado with altitude difference and lack of "tuners". Its very difficult to perform any "mods" due to the lack of Dyno's and Tuner Shops. Help :bows:
 
BLMMCO said:
So..Lets say I have a stock MM and want to go the 4:10's. Can I drive down to Ford and have them installed? And will they also re-tune the car? Reason why is I live in Colorado with altitude difference and lack of "tuners". Its very difficult to perform any "mods" due to the lack of Dyno's and Tuner Shops. Help :bows:
Some dealers will install different gears for you, and some will not. you're best off finding a Ford dealer that is an "SVT" dealer since they're usually more performance oriented. But most of them will not re-tune the car for you. And yu're definayely going to need that for the car to take advantage of the new gear ratio. otherwise, the car will not accelerate any differently. Not to mention that the speedometer will also be thrown off. But you can just get a mail-order chip that's burned for 4.10 gears. I just sent you a PM about this.......
 
Thanks Gman , I think the 4:10's will be my first mod...can't wait to get started
 
Conflicting info

Hi everyone,

I don't want to start a flame war or anything, but I was just on the other panther site reading about 4.10 gears and while most of everyone here agrees that you can run them with out the MMX driveshaft, over there they say not to. Now, I don't really know if there is much of a difference in the driveshafts of a CVLX to a MM. I've been talking to BillyGMan about my car and he's really opened my eyes to what I can do with "two tons of fun". I want to run 4.10s. I don't want/need to buy the MMX shaft. I don't plan on running triple digit speeds on the highway, but I will be doing travelling with the car. Honestly, I don't think there will be any problems if/when I switch the rear gears and install a LSD. So how come there's a difference of opinions?

I've read/searched everything I could on 4.10s here and there, including this thread. I'm 99% leaning towards the 4.10s, depending on the size of my tires. I will be going with 18s, but I haven't chosen what tire yet.
 
Sully008 said:
Hi everyone,

I don't want to start a flame war or anything, but I was just on the other panther site reading about 4.10 gears and while most of everyone here agrees that you can run them with out the MMX driveshaft, over there they say not to. Now, I don't really know if there is much of a difference in the driveshafts of a CVLX to a MM. I've been talking to BillyGMan about my car and he's really opened my eyes to what I can do with "two tons of fun". I want to run 4.10s. I don't want/need to buy the MMX shaft. I don't plan on running triple digit speeds on the highway, but I will be doing travelling with the car. Honestly, I don't think there will be any problems if/when I switch the rear gears and install a LSD. So how come there's a difference of opinions?

I've read/searched everything I could on 4.10s here and there, including this thread. I'm 99% leaning towards the 4.10s, depending on the size of my tires. I will be going with 18s, but I haven't chosen what tire yet.
If you're getting contrasting opinions from the Crown Vic boys, then one of the reasons might very well be simply because of the tire height difference. With our Marauders, the factory stock tire height is 28.4" while the factory tire height for the standard 16" Crown Vic tire is merely 26.6". So with practically a two inch differnce in tire height, the driveshaft on the Crown Vic that has the factory tires will be turning a couple hundred RPM's faster at 70 MPH.

That's one factor, and another factor is what you've already mentioned...which was the question about what exactly is the difference between the CV driveshaft, and the Marauder one. I don't know if anyone really knows the answer to that. But this is one of the reasons why I've stressed to you the need to first decide on your tire height before you choose what gear ratio that you'll go with. But after all is said and done, you can always try the 4.10 gears along with the driveshaft. After the gear installation, take it up on the highway during a low traffic volume time, and where there's plenty of open room on a dry pavement, bring her up to about 90 MPH with the radio off, and windows closed, and listen for a vibration. I garantee you that you will immediately notice the vibration if it's occuring. I did with my car. If it occurs, then you'll either have to try getting a high speed balance on your stock driveshaft(which would be much less expensive), or purchase an aftermarket one.
 
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A drive shaft can be prefectly balanced and still cause a vibration. At a certain RPM the drive shaft begins to "whip" or get out of round due to it's rotational mass and flexing even though it is perfectly balanced.

The drive shaft shape becomes that of a "banana", hence the vibration.
 
sailsmen said:
A drive shaft can be prefectly balanced and still cause a vibration. At a certain RPM the drive shaft begins to "whip" or get out of round due to it's rotational mass and flexing even though it is perfectly balanced.

The drive shaft shape becomes that of a "banana", hence the vibration.
that sounds like somebody's sales hype to me. No offence brutha, but that's just my gut reaction. Being "perfectly balanced" is NOT neccessarily the only issue here. it's also at what RPM the driveshaft in question was balanced at. Typically, most factory stock driveshafts are NOT balanced at an RPM as high as some aftermarket ones are for high performance applications. So when the gear ratio is changed, which causes the driveshaft to spin faster than it did with the factory stock gear ratio, then the higher speed balance is sometimes needed. I have both the factory stock Marauder driveshaft as well as the Dynotech driveshaft in my possession. put them side by side, and they both look exactly alike. Same dimensions. Same diameter, and they're both aluminum. So I cannot help but to suspect that the only difference might very well be in how they're both balanced. More specifically at what RPM they both are balanced at. Yeah, yeah, I know all about the claim of the Dynotech one being a "Metal matrix" material (whatever that is supposed to mean), but they sure do look the same to me. Infact, if this debate continues, I might just decide to bring both of these shafts to work with me to do a rockwell hardness test on the both of them to see exactly if the aluminum of the two shafts are really any different at all.And a harness test will tell that.

What I think is amusing here is that here we are debating this issue with intensity, while the person who originally started this thread probably got his answer along time ago, and incidentally, he hasn't even been on this board for three weeks now since his last sign in was on the 6th of this month. :rofl:
 
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BillyGman said:
If you're getting contrasting opinions from the Crown Vic boys, then one of the reasons might very well be simply because of the tire height difference. With our Marauders, the factory stock tire height is 28.4" while the factory tire height for the standard 16" Crown Vic tire is merely 26.6". So with practically a two inch differnce in tire height, the driveshaft on the Crown Vic that has the factory tires will be turning a couple hundred RPM's faster at 70 MPH.

Billy is exactly right....The Marauder has a MUCH tallet rear tire than a CV.
I've got pictures of my Marauder parked next to my brother's CV and my Marauder is quite a bit higher in the rear due to the tall rear tires. It kinda looks like I have Gabriel air-shocks on the rear because the height difference between the two vehicles.
4.10s in a CV will spin the engine significantly higher than 4.10s in a Marauder. Couple the elevated RPMs with the CV 2-valve engine, which runs out of breath WAY before the 4-valve Marauder, and a 4.10 CV WILL feel like it has 'short legs' on the highway.
 
BillyGman said:
that sounds like somebody's sales hype to me. No offence brutha, but that's just my gut reaction. Being "perfectly balanced" is NOT neccessarily the only issue here. it's also at what RPM the driveshaft in question was balanced at. Typically, most factory stock driveshafts are NOT balanced at an RPM as high as some aftermarket ones are for high performance applications. So when the gear ratio is changed, which causes the driveshaft to spin faster than it did with the factory stock gear ratio, then the higher speed balance is sometimes needed. I have both the factory stock Marauder driveshaft as well as the Dynotech driveshaft in my possession. put them side by side, and they both look exactly alike. Same dimensions. Same diameter, and they're both aluminum. So I cannot help but to suspect that the only difference might very well be in how they're both balanced. More specifically at what RPM they both are balanced at. Yeah, yeah, I know all about the claim of the Dynotech one being a "Metal matrix" material (whatever that is supposed to mean), but they sure do look the same to me. Infact, if this debate continues, I might just decide to bring both of these shafts to work with me to do a rockwell hardness test on the both of them to see exactly if the aluminum of the two shafts are really any different at all.And a harness test will tell that.

What I think is amusing here is that here we are debating this issue with intensity, while the person who originally started this thread probably got his answer along time ago, and incidentally, he hasn't even been on this board for three weeks now since his last sign in was on the 6th of this month. :rofl:
The older CVPI ones were also Metal Matrix material, which looks just like the aluminum. I would also like to see exactly what the difference is but if even FoMoCo believes there is a difference I have to believe it is not just sales hype.
 
FordNut said:
The older CVPI ones were also Metal Matrix material, which looks just like the aluminum. I would also like to see exactly what the difference is but if even FoMoCo believes there is a difference I have to believe it is not just sales hype.
Perhaps you're right, I dunno. Maybe one of these days I'll do some kind of Rockwell harness test on them both, and/or have the factory stock one balanced at a higher speed and install it to see if it still causes that obvious vibration that it did with the 4.56 gears right before I had removed it. that would be revealing. ;)
 
BillyGman said:
that sounds like somebody's sales hype to me. No offence brutha, but that's just my gut reaction. Being "perfectly balanced" is NOT neccessarily the only issue here. it's also at what RPM the driveshaft in question was balanced at. Typically, most factory stock driveshafts are NOT balanced at an RPM as high as some aftermarket ones are for high performance applications. So when the gear ratio is changed, which causes the driveshaft to spin faster than it did with the factory stock gear ratio, then the higher speed balance is sometimes needed. I have both the factory stock Marauder driveshaft as well as the Dynotech driveshaft in my possession. put them side by side, and they both look exactly alike. Same dimensions. Same diameter, and they're both aluminum. So I cannot help but to suspect that the only difference might very well be in how they're both balanced. More specifically at what RPM they both are balanced at. Yeah, yeah, I know all about the claim of the Dynotech one being a "Metal matrix" material (whatever that is supposed to mean), but they sure do look the same to me. Infact, if this debate continues, I might just decide to bring both of these shafts to work with me to do a rockwell hardness test on the both of them to see exactly if the aluminum of the two shafts are really any different at all.And a harness test will tell that.

What I think is amusing here is that here we are debating this issue with intensity, while the person who originally started this thread probably got his answer along time ago, and incidentally, he hasn't even been on this board for three weeks now since his last sign in was on the 6th of this month. :rofl:

Drive line Critical speed

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What it is –
Every rotating object has a “critical” speed or resonant speed, which is a function of its design, mass and stiffness. This is when the driveshaft is whipping in the middle, rather than spinning on a true centerline. For a driveshaft, this is also called “first bending mode”, indicating the shaft actually bows out into a boomerang shape (on a micro-scale). This first mode bending speed is usually referred to in a driveshaft frequency.

What it does –
The energy stored and released through the deflection of the driveshaft through the resonance creates lateral and vertical accelerations of >10g at the problem frequency, which results in broken transmission extension housings, cases and causes moderate to severe vibration at highway speeds (> 70 mph), particularly with axle ratios numerically higher than 3.27:1. This energy release, when compounded by excessive driveshaft imbalance (some is good, too much or too little is not), companion flange run out/imbalance and excessive driveline angles provides the driver with excessive vibration and boom and tortures the driver and driveline components in general.

Because of this, most vehicles have a speed limiter to prevent from entering this mode and causing damage to the driveline.

Some detail –
As mentioned above, the driveshaft rotates at a certain speed based on rear axle ratio; tire size and road speed, but is independent of engine speed (unless you have a vehicle such as a Porsche 944 or C5 Corvette which utilize torque tubes and transaxles, in which case the driveshaft turns at engine speed).

The factors governing driveshaft critical speed include its material properties (i.e., Bulk Modulus of Elasticity which is roughly analogous to material stiffness), diameter, and length and to a lesser degree, wall thickness.

The only factor you can really modify to affect critical speed is material choice. Length is package-dictated, and diameter is usually constrained by driveline tunnel space as well. The answer then becomes a bit simpler – replace your steel shaft with an aluminum or MMC (metal matrix composite) shaft. Both offer reduced weight, which is key in this frequency range. MMC offers the additional bonus of additional damping and stiffness over a typical aluminum alloy.

As mentioned above, at the frequencies in question, a change in rotational mass has a greater impact on resonant frequency than a change in stiffness does, partly since it is easier to reduce mass than increase stiffness (adding stiffness almost invariably means adding mass -- a vicious circle), but particularly since resonant frequency is equal to the sqrt (k/m), where m is mass and k is stiffness. Here m is a stronger function being the in the denominator of a square root. So you can see that as “m” gets smaller, the resonant frequency “f” gets much bigger.

The use of an aluminum shaft provides a dual purpose – increasing critical speed out of the operating range AND directly reduces the rotational forces since those rotational forces are governed by:

F = mr w**2
Where w is rotation speed, m is the mass and r is the radius at which it is spinning.

This means that a 50% reduction in rotational mass results in 50% less rotational force. So, when a driveshaft rotates out of true, due to run out of the shaft itself or due to trans output shaft or axle companion flange run out, the reduced mass * the radius of gyration (i.e., run out) product is smaller than for the same conditions with a steel shaft.

This becomes important not only at critical speed, but at more normal operational speeds where the effects of run out and mass imbalance are more evident than those of resonance:

For a typical Fox or SN95 Mustang, driveline critical speed is around 95-100 Hz. Using stock tires we have the following:

225-60R15, 225-55R16, 245-45R17 all rotate at 812-820 revs/mile at 60 mph.

This give is 13.5 Hz wheel frequency at 60 mph, and assuming a 3.27 axle, we then have:

812/60*3.27 or 44.25 Hz , driveline frequency.

So, 100/44.25*60 yields a driveline critical VEHICLE speed of 135 mph. A good rule of thumb states that the objectionable driveline forces will start becoming significant at 70% of resonant frequency, so for the case of the 3.27 axle, the boom and vibration may be felt beginning at 95 mph.

Typically, 3.27 axles don’t provide the driver with much to complain about; it is 3.73 and above which create the concerns. Using a 3.73, we find that

13.53*3.73 gives 50.5 Hz wheel frequency at 60 mph (substantially higher than the 3.27)

And the critical VEHICLE speed then becomes

100/50.5*60 or 119 mph.

Taking 70% of 119 mph equals 83 mph, certainly a speed at which some Mustang drivers experience occasionally.

For a 4.10 axle, the “70% speed” is 76 mph!

Compounding this problem are factors like transmission output shaft run out, imbalances and run outs from components such as the reverse sun gear, driveshaft, companion flange and pinion pitch line run out (a torque induced run out created when the pinion tries to crawl up the face of the ring gear involutes).

Combine these factors and the already marginal NVH resulting from proximity to 1st bending (critical speed) and the NVH becomes absolutely agricultural.

The aluminum shaft minimizes the contribution from companion flange run out and the driveshaft’s own run out, directly due the lower mass. The pinion is free to pitch +/- 20 degrees and adding in any run outs of the companion flange or driveshaft at the pinion end results in the driveshaft mass having a large eccentric path to wobble about. It is this path times the mass of the driveshaft, which gives the characteristic boom and vibration at highway speeds.

Thus, as Newton predicted, as mass decreases so will the forces. That is why an aluminum shaft is your friend when coupled to 3.73s.

One side note: that great big mass on your pinion nose, fondly named by driveline engineers after the appendage on a male moose, is tuned to 45 Hz, the frequency at which the 2nd order forces created by u-joints as they rotate, force the pinion to bounce or pitch up and down and shake you by the seat of your pants and create an uncomfortable boom in the car. Once again run outs and imbalances will modulate this 2nd order driveline phenomenon to make it worse, so the moral is, LEAVE THE MOOSEB-, uh, DAMPER ON the pinion nose!

Another item: you CAN expect more axle noise when using an aluminum shaft however, which does not necessarily mean the pinion depth or side shims are incorrect, or that the gear cutting process is flawed. It just means that the aluminum shaft is more willing to “bend” circumferentially, torsionally and in a double hump (2nd bending) much more easily than a steel shaft.

Recall my prior statements at the very beginning about aluminum stiffness vs. steel? Picture a piece of sheet metal ducting. Bend it and it makes a WA-WA sound. That is pretty much what a driveshaft does, but at a much higher frequency – higher than even the dreaded “critical speed” of 100 Hz.

Axle noise will occur from about 350 Hz all the way through 500 Hz, sometimes even higher than that. The energy comes from the teeth meshing at the pinion/ring gear interface. This energy is transmitted to the driveshaft (and suspension components) and makes them deflect in the same sense as a piece of sheet metal goes WA-WA. Aluminum is less stiff than steel and takes less energy to deflect it, so it is far more inclined to make your axle go WOOOOO as you drive down the road at 45-70 mph.

Assuming again a 3.73 axle ratio, which has 11 teeth on the pinion and 41 on the ring gear, the axle noise frequency is calculated as (at 45-70 mph):

815/60*3.73*11 or 557 Hz at 60 mph.

This means the WOOO you hear at 45 mph is about 418 Hz and the WEEEEEE you hear at 70 mph is way up there at 650 Hz. You can’t SEE the driveshaft is bending and breathing and twisting, but it is telling you that precisely that is occurring.

So, now armed with this information, you now understand the basics of your vehicle’s driveline.

Information provided by JW
 
sailsmen said:
Drive line Critical speed

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a piece of sheet metal goes WA-WA. Aluminum is less stiff than steel and takes less energy to deflect it, so it is far more inclined to make your axle go WOOOOO as you drive down the road at 45-70 mph.


This means the WOOO you hear at 45 mph is about 418 Hz and the WEEEEEE you hear at 70 mph is way up there at 650 Hz. You can’t SEE the driveshaft is bending and breathing and twisting, but it is telling you that precisely that is occurring.

So, now armed with this information, you now understand the basics of your vehicle’s driveline.

Information provided by JW
Okay, all together now........ "WA-WA"..and "WOOOO".... and let's not forget..."WEEEEEE".......:D

hey, actually, some of that made alot of sense to me, and I noticed some of that going on after changing the gears in my Marauder.
 
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Like I said in a previous post.....

You can minimize two problems with one material.....CARBON FIBER!

VERY STIFF AND VERY LIGHT.
 
I put in 4:10 and did not notice a vibration, if I did not run at the track so often I could get by based on my driving habits w/out the MMX Drive shaft.

I drove another MM with the MMX Drive shaft back to back w/ my car w/out and his car was significantly smoother over 80mph. That is what really sold me on the MMX.
 
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