negative caster will cause drifting or instability. toe does not effect pulling/drifts
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Alignment guys (Fox body Mustang)?
- Thread starter Rockettman
- Start date
negative caster will cause drifting or instability. toe does not effect pulling/drifts
negative caster will cause drifting or instability. toe does not effect pulling/drifts
Yes a lack of or no caster will cause a vehicle to wander but so will zero toe. Besides being a Ford guy I've got a bunch of IH's that the factory setting is zero or negative camber, but with a little toe they drive straight and true down the road no matter which side of the crown I'm driving on. Granted I'm in the Seattle area where they don't put a lot of crown on the road. However if you set up a car to not drift right due to a steeply crowned 2 lane road then driving in the left lane of a steeply crowned divided hwy you have a car that drifts to the left heavily.
Rockettman
New member
^^^ "IH's" ??
So are you both suggesting that I should get a little bit of positive toe (toe-in) or just leave at zero? I'm thinking maybe that "camber-thrust" is going to cause a toe-out just slightly when the car is in motion. Zero on the rack may not be zero due to stock rubber A-arm bushings.
I should be trying to get the camber close to 0 then? (Ford sets at 0?)
The alignment guy said the adjustment plates on the strut towers, are maxed-out. I can't get any less-negative than the -0.9/left & -0.7/right.
Short of buying and installing camber/caster plates (which I have no intension); maybe I could just create more negative on the right then (maybe to match the -0.9)?
So are you both suggesting that I should get a little bit of positive toe (toe-in) or just leave at zero? I'm thinking maybe that "camber-thrust" is going to cause a toe-out just slightly when the car is in motion. Zero on the rack may not be zero due to stock rubber A-arm bushings.
I should be trying to get the camber close to 0 then? (Ford sets at 0?)
The alignment guy said the adjustment plates on the strut towers, are maxed-out. I can't get any less-negative than the -0.9/left & -0.7/right.
Short of buying and installing camber/caster plates (which I have no intension); maybe I could just create more negative on the right then (maybe to match the -0.9)?
Last edited:
^^^ "IH's" ??
So are you both suggesting that I should get a little bit of positive toe (toe-in) or just leave at zero? I'm thinking maybe that "camber-thrust" is going to cause a toe-out just slightly when the car is in motion. Zero on the rack may not be zero due to some 21 year old parts.
I should be trying to get the camber close to 0 then? (Ford sets at 0?)
The alignment guy said the adjustment plates on the strut towers, are maxed-out. I can't get any less-negative than the -0.9/left & -0.7/right.
Short of buying and installing camber/caster plates (which I have no intension); maybe I could just create more negative on the right then (maybe to match the -0.9)?
IH's International Harvesters. Scouts and a Travelette (0 camber) Travelall (neg camber)
Yes I'd try a touch of toe in to see if that helps since the rest isn't adjustable anymore as is.
You may want to check out this article, particularly the toe-in toe-out section. http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techa...portance_of_front_end_alignments/viewall.html