musclemerc
Senior Member
BUMP!!!!! :bounce:
We need 10 to get this done!
Here is the list:
Ctrlraven
Jimbok1951
03mmmonroe
bugsyc
Filby's Marauder
Mercnasty
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Catch Can Group Buy!
- Thread starter musclemerc
- Start date
BUMP!!!!! :bounce:
We need 10 to get this done!
Here is the list:
Ctrlraven
Jimbok1951
03mmmonroe
bugsyc
Filby's Marauder
Mercnasty
musclemerc
Senior Member
I know alot of you have read my "Catch Can Comparisons" thread, I shared my thought's on why my "Musclemerc Catch Can" is the best choice for various reason's.
Well hindsight is always 20/20... I read it this morning and kicked myself for not addressing a few other reasons my can is the BEST.
I mentioned the inside lid of the can is where the oil vapors rise, and collect. Eventually, oil dropplets will form and gravity takes the dropplets to the bottom of the can. My cap was engineered to take advantage of this principle. I want the dropplets to form on the inside lid of my can, most other can's forget this one step in design. You dont want the outlet of the can close the lid where all the oil dropplet's form, the vacum will just pull them into the intake *which kills the need for a catch can*
I use a high strength epoxy to create the "ceiling" in my catch can. The inlet to my can (the feed from the pcv valve) is designed to force "wet oil" to the base of the can as Quickly As Possible. Remeber in the comparison thread I said "Brass, SS, and copper act as a catalyst when used in a pcv system" these are the only components inside of my catch can. I also make the ceiling as flat as possible so the oil drops faster, if it were in the dome of the can (like most are) the oil dropplets will stick longer. They will form in the center and follow the shape of the dome till they hit the inside wall, then slide to the bottom
My brass fittings go all the way through the can and the ceiling has been "ported" to force the wet oil down.
I rough the edge of the lid so the 100% silicone has a good rough surface to bond.
I also make the ceiling as flat as possible so the oil drops faster, if it were in the dome of the can the oil dropplets will stick longer. They will form in the center of the lid and follow the shape of the dome till they hit the inside wall, then slide to the bottom.
Now that the oil dropplets are falling what about the filter? My can has an enclosed filter element. The oil dropplets cant come in contact with the filter.
The tube that delivers clean air to the upper intake is stainless steel and lives half way down the can.
What were you taught to do if your in a room full of smoke?
GET LOW where the clean air is! I followed that concept in my design so the filter element pulls the air at the base of the can where the air is cleaner.
The drain plug on the base of my can is treated with a high temp oil resistant thread sealer
It also has a rubber "O" ring so it will not leak
I send them out presealed with 100% silicone on both the cap and lid
They come custom made for N/A, Trilogy, and Eaton Swap and is
THE BEST catch can on the market for your Marauder
Well hindsight is always 20/20... I read it this morning and kicked myself for not addressing a few other reasons my can is the BEST.
I mentioned the inside lid of the can is where the oil vapors rise, and collect. Eventually, oil dropplets will form and gravity takes the dropplets to the bottom of the can. My cap was engineered to take advantage of this principle. I want the dropplets to form on the inside lid of my can, most other can's forget this one step in design. You dont want the outlet of the can close the lid where all the oil dropplet's form, the vacum will just pull them into the intake *which kills the need for a catch can*
I use a high strength epoxy to create the "ceiling" in my catch can. The inlet to my can (the feed from the pcv valve) is designed to force "wet oil" to the base of the can as Quickly As Possible. Remeber in the comparison thread I said "Brass, SS, and copper act as a catalyst when used in a pcv system" these are the only components inside of my catch can. I also make the ceiling as flat as possible so the oil drops faster, if it were in the dome of the can (like most are) the oil dropplets will stick longer. They will form in the center and follow the shape of the dome till they hit the inside wall, then slide to the bottom
My brass fittings go all the way through the can and the ceiling has been "ported" to force the wet oil down.
I rough the edge of the lid so the 100% silicone has a good rough surface to bond.
I also make the ceiling as flat as possible so the oil drops faster, if it were in the dome of the can the oil dropplets will stick longer. They will form in the center of the lid and follow the shape of the dome till they hit the inside wall, then slide to the bottom.
Now that the oil dropplets are falling what about the filter? My can has an enclosed filter element. The oil dropplets cant come in contact with the filter.
The tube that delivers clean air to the upper intake is stainless steel and lives half way down the can.
What were you taught to do if your in a room full of smoke?
GET LOW where the clean air is! I followed that concept in my design so the filter element pulls the air at the base of the can where the air is cleaner.
The drain plug on the base of my can is treated with a high temp oil resistant thread sealer
It also has a rubber "O" ring so it will not leak
I send them out presealed with 100% silicone on both the cap and lid
They come custom made for N/A, Trilogy, and Eaton Swap and is
THE BEST catch can on the market for your Marauder
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musclemerc
Senior Member
Birdman you already paid so I gotta make it up with you on the cash and add a replacement 3" fuel filter in the box with your other goodies.
Let me know it thats OK with you.
Let me know it thats OK with you.
SID210SA
AAM Moderator
So let me ask this: With the catch can, and I have heard so much about these...would it behoove me to get one now even though i have 100K on my car and there is prolly a lot of crud in the intake....would I need to clean all that out if I plan on getting one of these? and if I do need to clean it out....how do I go about doing this....
I love to add bling to my engine bay!! Do you have any stickers that I can add under the hood for your company....I like performance stickers cause they add some HP too....lol
I love to add bling to my engine bay!! Do you have any stickers that I can add under the hood for your company....I like performance stickers cause they add some HP too....lol
musclemerc
Senior Member
I advise everyone to run 2 cans of Seafoam through their MM on the same day, then install my can the following day. This way the intake is as clean as possible. I took mine off and did it, so thats always an option.
When I have time I will start a datalog with some well waited results.
The Marauder is the ONLY 32V modular motor that runs a heated pcv fitting at the upper intake. Well since my can stops the oil blowby the fitting is'nt needed. Which should result in a cooler IAT, which will enhance HP
When I have time I will start a datalog with some well waited results.
The Marauder is the ONLY 32V modular motor that runs a heated pcv fitting at the upper intake. Well since my can stops the oil blowby the fitting is'nt needed. Which should result in a cooler IAT, which will enhance HP
ctrlraven
BiRDMAN
No need to send the difference. How about maybe down the road when I buy another product just subtract the difference on like the Rear Head cooling kit or CAI/RAI when you come out with yours?
I added mine after 150k miles and my upper/lower intake had never been removed off of the car. If you saw my thread you know how nasty it was. As far as my thought on it, I would pull the upper/lower intakes and clean them real well and install your catch can at the same time. This way it will stay clean from here on out.
I can't believe how much the one I made has already caught since I installed it a few months ago. High mileage engines will have more oil blow-by and the catch can is a great resource to capture that blow-by and help keep things cleaner and ensure good performance. Oil vapors will lower fuel octane, how much? I have no clue but still isn't good.
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I'm with you on this, although I may have missed something: The analogy about fire/smoke, and getting down lower is completely unrelated to this.
In fact, you would want to put the dirty air down low, and take the clean air from up high.
Reason is, the heavier oil should stay down, while the lighter air should stay up.
Think about a drip leg, say....on a gas pipe, or even compressed shop air.
Actual smoke rises, because heat rises.
In fact, you would want to put the dirty air down low, and take the clean air from up high.
Reason is, the heavier oil should stay down, while the lighter air should stay up.
Think about a drip leg, say....on a gas pipe, or even compressed shop air.
Actual smoke rises, because heat rises.
ctrlraven
BiRDMAN
That's all a good point.
The way I have my catch can setup is opposite of Travis'. I have the intake side of the catch can attached with a brass pipe that extends down to the bottom of the can with a SS mesh pad wrapped around it and several holes drilled in the brass pipe on the lower half of it. The exit side has nothing connected to it on the inside.
LeoVampire
New England Marauder Member
I would put my name on this but I have to wait.
I am willing to get one from you but I can not do it till the end of next month musclemerc.
Already bought the paint and trany fluid I needed to work on this years mods this month which taped me out.
I am willing to get one from you but I can not do it till the end of next month musclemerc.
Already bought the paint and trany fluid I needed to work on this years mods this month which taped me out.
musclemerc
Senior Member
Let me know when your ready Leo. Glad to see you post!
Filby'sMarauder
New member
I have the Trilogy Twin Screw. I assume the PCV stuff is the same as the Eaton based Trilogy setup. I'll take one of these along with a fuel filter.
Mr. Man
GAME OVER, YOU LOSE!
Mike
I know Knine, therefore I FAIL
Mr. Man
GAME OVER, YOU LOSE!
Doomie and I razz each other a lot but I think he'd go for thatIs there a PINK Chrome
musclemerc
Senior Member
Thanks
That's a good idea Bob.
EVERYTHING is included. Hardware, hardlines, tywraps, template, everything .