SC Cheesehead
'God Speed Blues Brother'
Depending on type of headers they would give you another apx 50 hp.
+1
Long tubes will give you more, I picked up 27 hp and 38 lbs trq with my FRPP shortys.
Depending on type of headers they would give you another apx 50 hp.
What's the weak point of our motors? The cast crank?
Nope, rods and pistons.
BTW, I'm running 11 lbs boost, 450 rwhp on the stock block, so far, so good.
Fixed it for you BobIn some cases, yes. I am at 445 without headers, add headers and Click, Click, BOOM. Maybe, maybe not. But I do not want to install my termi short block just yet.![]()
Good to know. i was going to go with DR's vortech or paxton kit. I'm leaning towards paxton right now. Anybody running a centri style setup around here want to help me out. I want to make good power but not risk integrity of my stock motor
On my previous car I ran 456rwhp and 412rwtq at 12# on a vortech s-trim.Good to know. i was going to go with DR's vortech or paxton kit. I'm leaning towards paxton right now. Anybody running a centri style setup around here want to help me out. I want to make good power but not risk integrity of my stock motor
On my previous car I ran 456rwhp and 412rwtq at 12# on a vortech t-trim.
The car had been FI since 27k miles and I sold it with 72k.
On race gas I ran 502rwhp and 456rwtq. I did about 20 passes on the car at that power level, several high 11 sec passes with an 11.67 at 65* weather.
Before I sold the car I did a compression test and the lowest one was at 182.
The durability depends on the maintenance and tune.
I would get a forged shortblock from a well known builder before I'd ever drop the coin for an aluminator. Btw, my original block with 130+k on it still has the original crosshatch on the cylinder walls!
The aluminator would be the easy way out just since everythings assembled. I like doing things myself anyways. "Built Not Bought" is my motto
Sounds like you could be a candidate for an Eaton swap...![]()
Air to air is a way simpler setup, and you don't have to worry about a pump going badThe pros and cons betwe en air to air and water to air? Sounds like it holds up way better than I expected under boost. What pulley size is 12#s on that setup?
Air to air is a way simpler setup, and you don't have to worry about a pump going bad
The bad is if you do long extensive burnouts the intake temp will rise incredibly quick.
I ran a 3.33 pulley and spun the engine to 6500rpms.
Good to know. i was going to go with DR's vortech or paxton kit. I'm leaning towards paxton right now. Anybody running a centri style setup around here want to help me out. I want to make good power but not risk integrity of my stock motor
i bet you will have an aluminator and will be wondering why the hell the stock one wont blow up lol
If you're going centri, keep the CR high. They don't spike the dynamic compression at low RPM boost like a PD blower does, so you can get away with more compression. Use flat top pistons and call it a day.
That's what happened with me, the transmission gave up before the engine did.
I decided eaton swap it is, where do I start??I know I need the eaton M112 blower, lower intake manifold, intake plenum, kenne bell boost-a-pump, ford gt supercar fuel pump, 39# injectors, handheld tuner, coolant reservoir relocation, move my battery, custom brackets (anybody in the know on who here can make 'em? If not I can fabricate my own, modify my coolant crossover tube 1 inch lower to clear snout and pulley, intercooler (which one? if not custom piping with a IC from frozenboost.com) IC pump and custom bracket to mount it. Anything else guys?
I would get a forged shortblock from a well known builder before I'd ever drop the coin for an aluminator. Btw, my original block with 130+k on it still has the original crosshatch on the cylinder walls!