Dragcity Marauder - Build it plan

justbob said:
The next week point - rear end.. Been there a few times.


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I took heed of some of the issues you had and built the rear end prior to blowing it to pieces, I was on borrowed time


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I have the Detroit Trutrac with 31 spline axles and solid control arms. Transmission is going out for a rebuild as it has over 100,000 miles on it and lots of Trliogy miles. I will take note of that comment that 440 was more fun than 500. I really do enjoy driving the car. 8 already have the widened wheels. Nitto Drag radials installed. Upgraded rear shocks. Drive shaft is the only thing in that mix that is stock. I did replace u joints.

What do you think about me re-using the Teksid Mark viii stock crank? It's nodular. Although, if I stroke it, I'll need a new crank anyway. I'll just go forged then...
 
I was able to get the Teksid block all torn down. The rod and main bearings barely have a polish on most spots. Crank is perfect. Bores are perfect.

I need to do some careful grinding work on the Knock sensor bosses and six tabs up high on the sides of the valley so the intercooler clears.

I am still not sure if I want to stroke this engine or not. The bores could probably stay standard bore at 3.552. The stock crank is Nodular from my research. Could be re-used ??

What I have been reading about stroking is, I'll need to increase boost to realize any notable gains from stroking. I was only at 9.7# so I have a little to gain in that area.
 
Stock crank good for 600+ hp. Mine is stock, nitride coated. I don't feel stroking with a Trilogy is worth it. It's a 1.9 blower. It has its limits, I'm pushing mine over too far. It's a street car to me
 
Good advice right there. I don't want to push anything over 75% of its capabilities. I love driving this car and like to beat on it once in a while. Never going to be a track car. Once in a while to the strip for some fun runs with the local folks, but my racing days are over.

Thanks a lot everyone.
 
ON that note about compression ratio... How high can I go? I think I saw some 11.0:1 pistons out there. If I am not going over 10 lb of boost from the standard Trilogy Supercharger, the compression ratio can go up, as long as all those whacky valves clear.
 
Well, time to revive this thread.

I finally have my Teksid block in at a local machine shop. Next week it gets the hot tank, torque plated and clean-up. We may be able to keep the 3.552 bore, just a quick square up and polish. 0.010 over are expensive pistons. I will be keeping with the stock stroke. There are lots of rotating assemblies put there, but I can see I will not be doing this on any sort of reasonable budget.

After tearing down the blown up engine, I have realized there is absolutely nothing I can re-use. The failure has put too much stress on every single component of the short block. I am not even confident in the heads at this point. Combustion chamber #1 is banged up pretty good. All the valves look good, but my confidence in their ability to go on is not there.

#1 connecting rod broke. #1 piston was broken into two major pieces and a thousand smaller pieces. The wrist pin shattered and wound up in the mix. All the rings were twisted and wound up everywhere in the engine.. #2 connecting rod broke. the piston stayed in one piece and in it's bore. #'s 3, 5, 6 and 7 had bent rods. Only rods that were looking straight were 4 and 8. The bloc has several ventilation holes in it. three on the sides from rods, two in the valley from the meat grinder of a crankshaft. Needless to say, it is n absolute mess.

Really not looking forward to spending $10,000 on a rebuild here. Heads are an unwanted surprise. I have no ide if anyone can repair a banged up casting at position #1. I will try to post up pictures of this mess. It's a lot worse than I thought.

I am now into Oil pump, pickup, windage tray, and pan, all are bent and damaged. The entire timing system has experienced too much stress.

**** !
 
Good to see you getting back on this Joe. Sorry about all the damage but you know the saying if you're going to play you're going to pay. I do have quite a collection of engine parts here so if I can help you with anything lmk. Also have a friend with a machine shop down here on the Island that can weld up just about any damage to aluminum if that is a viable option for you. I'm sure there has to be someone in your area that can probably handle that, Oddy's Automotive in Elma comes to mind if he hasn't retired. Only met the man once but Jim is very knowledgeable, an extremely successful racer & real easy to deal with a good guy for sure.
 
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You'll need more than 10psi to get north of 450rwhp. Trilogy pullies are hard to come buy, they are keyed and not same as Eaton swap ones. Gerald may be able to make a 3.0 upper
 
I call this one "The De-evolution of the Piston and Connecting Rod"
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And.... "Where did Number One Go?"
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Banged up combustion chamber.....
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Oh, and this one... "Who Needs a Bore Around"
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I believe I have all three of the upper pullies for the Trilogy. Other choice is a larger crank pulley, right? But then consider heat soak... If I get the heads done right, I can pick up some HP there.
 
The trick with that #1 combustion chamber in the head is to machine it properly to match CC's and proper mixture movement. I have no idea if that is possible. At least it is only one chamber.
 
Dragcity said:
The trick with that #1 combustion chamber in the head is to machine it properly to match CC's and proper mixture movement. I have no idea if that is possible. At least it is only one chamber.
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You'd have to talk to a machinist to get the answer to that but it's probably possible. I've seen my friend weld up & machine heads that looked way worse than yours & when he was finished you could hardly tell it was damaged. I assume those are 9 thread heads I do have a set here if needed.
 
Edie, I may need a passenger side head. Yes, mine are 9 thread. I'll look around town. Yes, Jim Oddy has one heck of a good reputation around hear. Ill see if he is still about. I will ask my block machinist about it.

Killer Chiller is an option. Tell me, does that have any negative effect on cabin A/C performance?

You guys are the best !
 
I haven't checked actual vent temp inside when AC on, but IIRC temp coming out vent is like 5-7 degrees warmer than if no killer Chiller. Should have your blower ported while out of car.. rebuilt too. Just don't recommend Jon Bond performance in Iowa..Use Steigemeier in Missouri.
 
I'll .look up the blower porting and freshen up. I thought these things were good for 100,000 miles. I put about 25,000 miles on Supercharged. Might as well make it all brand new like.

I'm thinking I might as well install a new power steering pump and A/C compressor while everything is apart. 120,000 miles and 18 years later, might as well.

And..... There goes and sort of budget, right?
 
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