Dynamat?

mrjones said:
How much does Dynamat weigh?
Click to expand...

A LOT!

We DynaMat'ed the floor boards and the inside rear wheel wells of the Cobra for a quieter ride.*

The roll of DynaMat weighed a ton!
It felt like an 80# bag of cement.

*I know....I know...it was kind of dumb, seeing as you have a pair of 4" side pipes less than 3 feet from your ears.
But it is a VERY quiet car when you have the ignition 'OFF'....:P
 
Alright, today was spent in the garage laying Dynamat. I bought it last year when Eastwood had a sale on it, been carrying it around in the trunk forever. Actually the box was in the trunk when I ran the 11.64 at SSHS last November.

The main focus of the thread was to figure out where to start. I pulled the rear seat and package tray out. Started at the edge of the package tray, about 2" over the edge. Layed it over the fenderwells, behind the seat, under the seat all the way to the floor pans. We'll see how that works first, then go from there.

Didn't want to cover the whole package tray, since I've got the basslink in the trunk I'd like to hear it at least a little bit.

Rich, thanks for the info on the Cascade spray-on insulation. If I do the doors and inside the trunk I'll for sure use that instead of Dynamat. My hands are cut all to pieces, that Dynamat stuff is SHARP.

Is the Fatmat lighter than Dynamat? If I pull the carpet and do the floors I might try something different.

I still have a couple of sheets of Dynamat, I might try the idea of putting it on underneath the car, between the mufflers and floor pan.

Another spot that has been suggested for treatment is the front floor pans in the area of the headers. I may try that one soon too.
 
magindat said:
To stop the resonance altogether, dump the headers into a baffle muffler. They are simply a straight through pipe with louvers punched on the inside and a larger pipe outside and about 1/4" of glass in between. (like a cherry bomb, but louvers, not punches) Mine were about 20 bucks each. NEW. These take that resonance or characterisitic header 'ring' and make it go out the tailpipe instead of vibrating your fillings. Further, they make great fakey cats!
Click to expand...

I was thinking about putting somethin like this in the pipes alongside the driveshaft, between the x-pipe and the mufflers. I'd like to find some made with stainless, though.
 
I wouldn't recommend Dyna mat for exterior. It will probably peal off unless you get the under hood liner version or something designed to block sound and heat if it's going to be near headers or exhaust. I would look at something similar to this: http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=27
You need something that will reflect the heat away, dampen sound, and still stay attached near a heat source when exposed to the environment.
The Cascade works good also. I did it in my trunk the 2 weeks before crash. It never quite dried on the foam(?) sealant in the trunk corners. I wiped the sealant clean with some IPA. Overall it really improved my interior sound, greatly reducing road noise. On the can it says it can be spayed as an under coating also. It's easy to apply just cover what you don't want over spray on, and make sure there is no wind. Same rules apply as when applying spray paint.
 
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OK, I won't try that then.

Once again this project snowballed. While the sail panels were out, I figured I might as well install the tweeters I've been carrying around in the trunk for about 3-4 years. Then I figured I might as well install the crossovers too. And wires. And wires for the woofers (didn't install them yet, just ran the wires). To do all that I had to empty the trunk. Then re-organize the trunk so (almost) all the junk I'm still carrying around will fit in the organizer. I'll have a little more space in there when the woofers are installed.

If I had been smart about it, I would have done the Cascade treatment while the trunk was empty. Oh, well there's always another day.
 
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