High Output Alternator

Anybody with half a brain knows what that clutched pulley is for.

I actually have a full brain (I think), and I don't know what a clutched pulley is for, so I appreciate the discussion. Can you enlighten me or point me in a direction to read about it? I'm assuming it has something to do with engaging and disengaging the charging/generating capacity of an alternator, but I'm not sure why (if that's the case).
 
idk, but I will test as you suggest. You seem to have some experience in this area. Do you have a recommendation?

Like I said, I bought a Mechman 260A alternator. It came with a solid pulley, I have a clutched pulley on order from Ford to replace it. I don't know what you'll end up with from Autozone, you'll have to check into that.

Unfortunately, these clutched pulleys do eventually wear out. Mine made it to about 110K and then started making noise. This is probably not a part that you want to get from the lowest bidder. If it fails it can leave you stranded, or make ominous engine noises (what happened to me) that will drive you nuts trying to track down.

I spoke with an alternator rebuilder locally who has been in business for decades. He said he always goes with OEM clutched pulleys in his rebuilds.
 
I spoke with an alternator rebuilder locally who has been in business for decades. He said he always goes with OEM clutched pulleys in his rebuilds.

This is very helpful. If I were to get an HO alternator, would oIe have to go to a rebuilding shop to have this pulley swap done? I'm fairly handy. I removed and cleaned my upper and lower intake last week. I don't understand all the theory yet, but I can generally figure things out and I do most repairs myself.
 
So, are you telling me my belt chirp did not start when I swapped in an alternator with a solid pulley? Because it did. Don't tell me what my car does, you have no clue.

Or are you trying to argue that a clutched pulley was included for no reason and serves no purpose? Does that make you smarter than the Ford engineers? I doubt you are.

Anybody with half a brain knows what that clutched pulley is for. If you can run without one with your modified supercharger accessory belt setup, good for you. But that has no bearing on the original design.

Your clearly clueless! so all the Trilogy/Eaton swap cars are have chirping alts as well right:confused:

Funny coming form the one guy who has half a brain when it comes to Willwood brakes too huh:confused: get a clue bud! your full of missinformation!
 
Your clearly clueless! so all the Trilogy/Eaton swap cars are have chirping alts as well right:confused:

Funny coming form the one guy who has half a brain when it comes to Willwood brakes too huh:confused: get a clue bud! your full of missinformation!

I didn't say jack about Eaton cars, read much?

Do you have Wilwood brakes on your car, or are you (again) talking about something you have no experience with?

You don't seem too observant, so I'll spell this out real clear for you. If I share something I've learned about these cars, it is from EXPERIENCE. Not speculation or reading some forum on the internet. Everything I've learned about Wilwood brakes, Penske shocks, and even this minor clutched pulley thing I have seen with my own eyes and done myself.

If you don't have Wilwood brakes or Penske shocks then STFU because you don't know what you're talking about.
 
I didn't say jack about Eaton cars, read much?

Do you have Wilwood brakes on your car, or are you (again) talking about something you have no experience with?

No experience? you really are clueless! i have installed quite a few Willwood brake systems, including several on my own cars, and for other members.

And as i originally stated a solid pulley even in a stock install should not squeak!
 
Your clearly clueless! so all the Trilogy/Eaton swap cars are have chirping alts as well right:confused:

OP is talking about a stock setup, and you jump in with an 8-rib supercharged accessory drive behavior? Lame, off topic, and pointlessly argumentative.
 
OP is talking about a stock setup, and you jump in with an 8-rib supercharged accessory drive behavior? Lame, off topic, and pointlessly argumentative.

Whats wrong bud:confused: you mad because i called you out on giving out bad/wrong info as you normally do? get your facts straight and i vanish like "Chuckie" LMAO!!!!!!!!!!
 
If you want a good alternator that will always work, contact Adam at Nations Alternator.

No one ever has a failure with his stuff
 
Whats wrong bud:confused: you mad because i called you out on giving out bad/wrong info as you normally do? get your facts straight and i vanish like "Chuckie" LMAO!!!!!!!!!!

And as i originally stated a solid pulley even in a stock install should not squeak!

I only deal in facts, not speculate on what should happen on someone else's car that is different from mine.

Fact: solid pulleys very often will belt chirp and this is why Ford used a clutched pulley - to smooth the accessory drive during shifts.

Fact: Penske shocks ride and handle better than KYB. I've tried both, I should know. Hell, at that price they should!

Fact: Wilwood 14" rotors and FNSL6R caliper combo on the front of a Marauder with either BP10 or R4S pads yield an unacceptably short service life.

Been there, done that, driven it and observed the results. Go speculate all you want, I'll stick with the facts.
 
I only deal in facts, not speculate on what should happen on someone else's car that is different from mine.

Fact: solid pulleys very often will belt chirp and this is why Ford used a clutched pulley - to smooth the accessory drive during shifts.

Fact: Penske shocks ride and handle better than KYB. I've tried both, I should know. Hell, at that price they should!

Fact: Wilwood 14" rotors and FNSL6R caliper combo on the front of a Marauder with either BP10 or R4S pads yield an unacceptably short service life.

Been there, done that, driven it and observed the results. Go speculate all you want, I'll stick with the facts.

Let it go dude! go have a coke and a smile and STFU:bs:
 
I actually have a full brain (I think), and I don't know what a clutched pulley is for, so I appreciate the discussion. Can you enlighten me or point me in a direction to read about it? I'm assuming it has something to do with engaging and disengaging the charging/generating capacity of an alternator, but I'm not sure why (if that's the case).
Since no one explained...

Clutch pulley comes into play when you floor it and spin the motor up to 6000+ rpm, when the gear shift happens the revs drop quickly and at that moment the alternator with it's heavy wound mass is still spinning faster than the crank driven accessory belt - clutch allows the alternator to spin faster than the belt for just a moment, so no belt slip and no noise or chirp.

My old crownvic would chirp the belt on the 1-2 shift, and the 3-4 on "special occasions." It had a regular non-clutch pulley/6G alternator.

I did get a perfect all new 160AMP HD Alternator with clutch pulley from DB Electrical. I get 14.1 Volts at @ 750 idle with an underdriven crank harmonic balancer.
 
Thanks for the explanation! I get it now. One of the reasons I want a higher output alternator is because I will be installing underdrive pulleys as well. Good info – thanks so much.


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Thanks for the explanation! I get it now. One of the reasons I want a higher output alternator is because I will be installing underdrive pulleys as well. Good info – thanks so much.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You are welcome! - for Underdrives I went with just (1) March 1158 Fluid Filled SFI Crank dampener. It's smaller (underdriven) and I run that with a Dayco 91" poly-v belt and think the March unit is better than the others.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-1158
 
Since no one explained...

Clutch pulley comes into play when you floor it and spin the motor up to 6000+ rpm, when the gear shift happens the revs drop quickly and at that moment the alternator with it's heavy wound mass is still spinning faster than the crank driven accessory belt - clutch allows the alternator to spin faster than the belt for just a moment, so no belt slip and no noise or chirp.

My old crownvic would chirp the belt on the 1-2 shift, and the 3-4 on "special occasions." It had a regular non-clutch pulley/6G alternator.

I did get a perfect all new 160AMP HD Alternator with clutch pulley from DB Electrical. I get 14.1 Volts at @ 750 idle with an underdriven crank harmonic balancer.

This is just plain wrong, the oem clutched pulley is nothing more than a one way pulley that will "free wheel" when you suddenly lift off the go pedal, nothing more.

You are welcome! - for Underdrives I went with just (1) March 1158 Fluid Filled SFI Crank dampener. It's smaller (underdriven) and I run that with a Dayco 91" poly-v belt and think the March unit is better than the others.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-1158

Underdrive pulleys are a complete waste of money, and if you ever decide to S/C your car they must be removed.
 
This is just plain wrong, the oem clutched pulley is nothing more than a one way pulley that will "free wheel" when you suddenly lift off the go pedal, nothing more.

Yep, same thing happens at a high rpm shift... Just like letting off quickly. It "free wheels" and you don't hear the chirp. What I said isn't wrong..


Underdrive pulleys are a complete waste of money, and if you ever decide to S/C your car they must be removed.
Ha, 10hp and faster windup are benefits. There are dynos that show this.
 
Yep, same thing happens at a high rpm shift... Just like letting off quickly. It "free wheels" and you don't hear the chirp. What I said isn't wrong..

Yes it was! but ok if you say so!


Ha, 10hp and faster windup are benefits. There are dynos that show this.

You wont get 10hp out of UD pulleys unless lightning strikes!:bs:
 
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