All Marauders came from the factory with a one piece crank gear. Also, the pic of his crank gear shows that is a one piece.
Is it likely that my motor is done? (timing chain issue)
- Thread starter Weaver
- Start date
All Marauders came from the factory with a one piece crank gear. Also, the pic of his crank gear shows that is a one piece.
The only thing that troubles me at this point is I haven't found any real cause of this failure; just some moderate wear on the primary and secondary chain guides. Crank spun just fine when I was inspecting it. A visual inspection of the bottom end didn't turn up anything unusual.
However, I did notice some crankshaft end play, going to have to get a dial to check it; hopefully its within spec. If not, whats that mean? Im thinking new bearings and rod bolts at a minimum, correct? The mains are ARP.
I had the heads taken to a machine shop where they were reworked with new valves and came back looking pristine. I cleaned up the shortblock (carbon) and have the heads mounted. The cams are put back in, just waiting on a timing chain kit and camshaft cap bolts to come in.
I've read the procedure for setting the timing and practiced it with the old parts (no rockers installed). It seems I'll be able to do the timing job without the special tools, could I be missing something? It seems very straight-forward... Basically index all the cams in the same orientation, put on the secondary chains, then just match up the copper links on the chains to the index marks on the gears with #1 at TDC; right?
Any advice?
However, I did notice some crankshaft end play, going to have to get a dial to check it; hopefully its within spec. If not, whats that mean? Im thinking new bearings and rod bolts at a minimum, correct? The mains are ARP.
I had the heads taken to a machine shop where they were reworked with new valves and came back looking pristine. I cleaned up the shortblock (carbon) and have the heads mounted. The cams are put back in, just waiting on a timing chain kit and camshaft cap bolts to come in.
I've read the procedure for setting the timing and practiced it with the old parts (no rockers installed). It seems I'll be able to do the timing job without the special tools, could I be missing something? It seems very straight-forward... Basically index all the cams in the same orientation, put on the secondary chains, then just match up the copper links on the chains to the index marks on the gears with #1 at TDC; right?
Any advice?
Also, it didnt occur to me to remove the oil pump and check it while I had the oil pan off, should I remove the pan/pickup/pump and inspect it? It occured to me that I could get most of the motor together and then crank the motor outside of the car with the starter to actually "look" and see oil moving in the engine, thoughts?
Could a sudden drop in oil pressure from a pump failure have caused the chain tensioners to give slack to the chain... allowing enough of a variation in timing to cause the pistons to slap the valves... causing a jolt to the crankshaft timing gear... causing the shearing of the woodruff key?
Could a sudden drop in oil pressure from a pump failure have caused the chain tensioners to give slack to the chain... allowing enough of a variation in timing to cause the pistons to slap the valves... causing a jolt to the crankshaft timing gear... causing the shearing of the woodruff key?
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If the main bearings need to be replaced, wouldnt i have to remove the rods to get the crank out? and so wouldnt I have to remove the rod bolts? Or are you saying they are reusable?
What does this wear mean?
Crankshaft end play is good at .009, tested in 4 different positions with a digital dial indicator. Oil pump was pulled off and is good per a visual inspection.
But I just noticed some wear on the metal part of the right upper chain guide. I've looked for what could cause this but I'm just coming up with results for rattling noises. Our only theory right now is that the cam chain somehow got that far and wore it down a little, but there's about an inch of clearance and the chain is not really loose.
Crankshaft end play is good at .009, tested in 4 different positions with a digital dial indicator. Oil pump was pulled off and is good per a visual inspection.
But I just noticed some wear on the metal part of the right upper chain guide. I've looked for what could cause this but I'm just coming up with results for rattling noises. Our only theory right now is that the cam chain somehow got that far and wore it down a little, but there's about an inch of clearance and the chain is not really loose.
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justbob
Sick-Speed play toy
I think you are looking at a faulty secondary chain tensioner. When your cams rotate one will always be wanting to turn before or after the other one due to clocking of the lobes and spring pressures. Looks to be stock cams correct? I have aftermarket cams and upgraded valve springs and when one of cams want to rotate, the power behind the springs is utterly ridiculous.. It will gash your finger wide open between the wrench and what ever it throws you into!
I would almost assume this is where your troubles began, assuming you have good oil pressure.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
I would almost assume this is where your troubles began, assuming you have good oil pressure.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
DWSTANG67
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT
Also, it didnt occur to me to remove the oil pump and check it while I had the oil pan off, should I remove the pan/pickup/pump and inspect it? It occured to me that I could get most of the motor together and then crank the motor outside of the car with the starter to actually "look" and see oil moving in the engine, thoughts?
Could a sudden drop in oil pressure from a pump failure have caused the chain tensioners to give slack to the chain... allowing enough of a variation in timing to cause the pistons to slap the valves... causing a jolt to the crankshaft timing gear... causing the shearing of the woodruff key?
dont let mick install the oil pump
Running Again
Well, thanks for the advice all. She drove loud and strong for a few weeks. Looks like I didn't take any pics or vids :-/. Unfortunately just a few nights ago, I got this tapping noise much like MontyD (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=87251). I'll be starting a separate thread on my issue so I don't hijack his.
Well, thanks for the advice all. She drove loud and strong for a few weeks. Looks like I didn't take any pics or vids :-/. Unfortunately just a few nights ago, I got this tapping noise much like MontyD (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=87251). I'll be starting a separate thread on my issue so I don't hijack his.
alex.pitbull04
New member
Hi my name is Alex I just bought my 2003 Mercury Marauder I'm trying to find the brackets put my Eaton supercharger from A 03 Cobra and I can find it if anybody can give me a tip please send me a message or call me at 786 259-3996
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Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
alex.pitbull04
New member
Hey do you know where I can find the brackets to put my Eaton supercharger from 03 Cobra to my Mercury Marauder please somebody give me a tip I just call my baby I would like to put my supercharger but I don't know how
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Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
RF Overlord
73 is the best number.
Not only have you resurrected an ancient thread, but you're in the wrong forum...try posting in the power-adders section.