MAF cleaning...Best ''mod''!

I pay for the confidence of having the cleaner specific to the task...

CRC MAF Cleaner (no residue)...I've been using this one...Works great...

ALOHA
 
The Electrical Contact Cleaner will work, But I am with my Brudda'. Stick with the MAF cleaner. A can will last you at least a year.
 
Good advice, I just did mine about a hour ago.I also used the CRC MAF Cleaner. I reset the computer and the car runs great.
Local Boy said:
I pay for the confidence of having the cleaner specific to the task...

CRC MAF Cleaner (no residue)...I've been using this one...Works great...

ALOHA
Click to expand...
 
I have not done either car, the Marauder is turning 60K and the GMQ has 83K, but I do change the filter often 12-15K.
I have looked at the tiny little wires on the pick up, they look brand new.
Let me see if I have any heavy duty degreaser or acid I can trow at it!:D
 
Good reminder!! I still have my MAF cleaner and used it this week when I cleaned my CAI filter cone. Once again, smooth idle and runs like a champ!!
 
One other hint, if you clean and re oil your air filter, clean the maf again in about a day or two. Oil residue will get on it especially if you nail the throtle.
 
I bought, and used the CRC MAF cleaner today, worked great, I just took the top of the air box off used the little tube included, and cleaned the **** out of it, and then let it set. Two points, 1) I also cleaned my K&N filter cartridge, and when it ran out into the snow it was red, is that the cleaner, or the dye from the filter? 2) My mech said it didn't matter that the negative battery terminal was disconnected it wouldn't change the parameters of the comp. Could you please explain this to me, I want every fuel saving, power producing advantage I can get.
 
trash said:
I bought, and used the CRC MAF cleaner today, worked great, I just took the top of the air box off used the little tube included, and cleaned the **** out of it, and then let it set. Two points, 1) I also cleaned my K&N filter cartridge, and when it ran out into the snow it was red, is that the cleaner, or the dye from the filter? 2) My mech said it didn't matter that the negative battery terminal was disconnected it wouldn't change the parameters of the comp. Could you please explain this to me, I want every fuel saving, power producing advantage I can get.
Click to expand...

What you were seeing is the oil that acts as a filtering agent.
For K&N filters you have to buy what's called a Recharge kit #99-5000 at any auto parts store that sells K&N. Comes with bottle of cleaner and can of reoiler. Tentatively on a stock tuned car disconnecting the neg. battery cable for 15-30 is supposed to allow the computer to re-learn the fuel trim with the clean maf. There is still a debate whether this is needed or not.
 
trash said:
Thanks for the info, do I need this reoiler soon?
Click to expand...

Depends on how much of it you removed from the filter, miles on it, and how dusty it is under the hood.
Just for your peace of mind and knowing when it was done last i would get the kit and do it proper.

kn_cleaning_kit.jpg

Features
  • Stop your clogged air filter from putting the brakes on your engine's true power potential with the K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit
  • Your K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit uses a 2-step process to wash away filth and re-oil your hi-flow filter
  • Your choice of either the aerosol spray can or the squeeze bottle oil applicator
  • Aerosol K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit: Comes with a 12 oz. bottle of Air Filter Cleaner and a 6.5 oz. aerosol spray can of Filter Oil—fast and easy to apply
  • Squeezable K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit: Includes a 12 oz. bottle of Air Filter Cleaner and an 8 oz. squeezable tube of Filter Oil—pin-point application accuracy
  • Both K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit styles are good for around 7 thorough cleanings
  • 1 K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit will last for approximately 350,000 miles of reliable service-that's enough for 43 trips around the Earth's equator
Description

The K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit was created to ensure your K&N filter is performing at its best. While protecting and enhancing your engine's performance, the K&N air filter traps loads of dust, dirt and debris in its cotton-gauze filter medium.

Somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 miles under normal driving conditions, it's time for a scrub with the K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit. After the filter has been swabbed, simply add the oil and you're ready to roll. And, you can choose either an aerosol spray can or a squeezable bottle to apply the oil.

The K&N Air Filter Cleaning Kit will yield roughly 7 thorough cleanings or about 350,000 miles of top-performance filtration. Keep the clean air flowing and your engine going with the K&N Filter Cleaning Kit.


Note: you do not scrub filter. The cleaner does the work.
 
Last edited:
Ran the MAFS cleaner yesterday and replaced my fuel filter. My MM is running smoother now. Happy Day! I haven't gone WOT yet, to see if there's a noticeable power difference, considering the roads around here have been too slick and I lose traction under medium acceleration (on asphalt at any rate).
 
Funny, I been around this place a long time and knew that cleaning the MAF is a good idea; however I never did. After nearly 6 years of ownership and almost 49,000 miles this thread caught my eye and I decided to clean my MAF.

Went down to the local auto parts store and purchased a can of CRC MAF cleaner, set my back $7.00. I removed the air cleaner and the flexible rubber intake tube, this gives you and open view front and back. Sprayed the MAF and also the both ends of electrical connector.

I had no idle problems and was unaware of any loss of power prior to cleaning. I was aware that my cranking time was longer than it once was and somewhere along the way I had lost 1-2 mpg mostly in city driving. After the cleaning I went for a test drive and waited for engine to get to operating temp. and tires warmed up. Roads today are bone dry and air temp is 78* hum. 88%.

First impressions are that throttle response is better; I also understand how worthless that statement can be. The placebo effect can be very tempting and I try my best to find objective ways to measure what is very difficult to measure. Something with my car that I feel is as objective as possible in this case is: at what speed the rear end breaks loose when I punch it. My criteria is always the same A/C off, O/D off, dry pavement, same road, same lane, same segment of road.

At 35 mph punch: tires broke loose. rear end fishtailed and within 2 seconds I regained traction and took off.
At 30 mph punch: tires broke loose. no fishtailing just very little forward progress after about 3-4 seconds tires catch and accelaration begans. The relevance of the prior statements is: my car could not break the rears free recently from 30-35 mph.

My tires don't squeal, you just hear a swishing sound and from there you go to smoke if you don't let up, all very quiet actually. Anyway all this writing is because I have nothing better to do.:D Conclusion: It was worth the $7.00

PS: If the gas mileage and long crank time improves I will report back.
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^What He Said^^^^^^^^^^^ Temp mid 30's, and 62,xxx miles. Also the long crank time has improved. I'll see if fuel mileage increases, but power certainly has.
 
Sorry to "derail" the conversation thus far :o , but does anyone know what the recommended cleaning schedule is for the MAF sensor? My MM is still under the "extended warranty" period and I don't want to void it. :confused:

Thanks in advance everyone! :beer:
 
Zim Hosein said:
Sorry to "derail" the conversation thus far :o , but does anyone know what the recommended cleaning schedule is for the MAF sensor? My MM is still under the "extended warranty" period and I don't want to void it. :confused:

Thanks in advance everyone! :beer:
Click to expand...

No schedule and cleaning it won't affect the warranty.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top