New Engine Install issue

justbob said:
You mean SS like these? [emoji6]

5504d3a2e29ec9c29647f9ae8434b801.jpg


Yeah they bend just as easy.


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:eek::eek::eek: let me guess, missed a 2nd to third gear shift???
 
wow JUST GOOGLED THE MUSTANG SHOP IN KENT.. Not the best reviews there,, yikes!

Hope it all works out for you,, I know you have had issues with that car from way back in 2012,, :alone:
 
the shop is under new ownership. the previous owner is the cause of all the bad reviews. the guys there now are great. they are undoing all the wrong that has been done. I will see what I can do about getting more information on the issue. I will post more later
 
I would do the compression test first as I mentioned

If that checks out, pull your injectors and have them cleaned and flowed, if it was my car I'd lift the fuel rail up and out with the injectors attached and crank the car over and check SPRAY pattern comparison from bank to bank

If those all check out,.... go over your fuel injection harness real well depending on what you find


Funny is you mentioned one side is rich. Does that mean all 4 cylinders are being washed with fuel and they checked the plugs and they are super fouled out,..., or are they just going off O2 millivolts?

We don't have enough info :)

Compression then injectors is my opinion
 
Thanks for the ideas, I will pass them along. yes they pulled plugs and one side is running rich and the other lean. I believe they see this on the scan tool also.
 
Curless said:
:eek::eek::eek: let me guess, missed a 2nd to third gear shift???
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Never ever 2nd to 3rd! [emoji4]

Let's just say I forgot the cam gear spacers. Oops.. I got a whole day out of it before I bent the valves and forced for home two miles shooting raw fuel 10' out of the drivers tail pipe thanks to the intake cam gear shearing in three and taking the tensioner for a trip to the oil pan. [emoji6]


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justbob said:
Never ever 2nd to 3rd! [emoji4]

Let's just say I forgot the cam gear spacers. Oops.. I got a whole day out of it before I bent the valves and forced for home two miles shooting raw fuel 10' out of the drivers tail pipe thanks to the intake cam gear shearing in three and taking the tensioner for a trip to the oil pan. [emoji6]


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holy foooooooooook
 
Sorry I have been a little busy with work. but I wanted to let everyone know that the problem was solved. the issue was identified to be a clogged cat on the drivers side. Replaced with a custom offroad x-pipe. everything was checked out. I want to say that the mustang shop did a great job and that I started this forum on my own just so that I could get some insight and possibilities of what it could be. the car dyno'd out at 400rwhp @ 6.5psi of boost. I go and pick it up on Friday this week.
 

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HorneDogg said:
Sorry I have been a little busy with work. but I wanted to let everyone know that the problem was solved. the issue was identified to be a clogged cat on the drivers side. Replaced with a custom offroad x-pipe. everything was checked out. I want to say that the mustang shop did a great job and that I started this forum on my own just so that I could get some insight and possibilities of what it could be. the car dyno'd out at 400rwhp @ 6.5psi of boost. I go and pick it up on Friday this week.
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400 HP at 6.5 PSI??? Umm what else is done sir? 6.5 PSI @ 20 HP per # would be a 130 hp gain... these cars make 305 ish at the crank stock so that would put you at 435 at the crank.... something does not add up sir...
 
Curless said:
400 HP at 6.5 PSI??? Umm what else is done sir? 6.5 PSI @ 20 HP per # would be a 130 hp gain... these cars make 305 ish at the crank stock so that would put you at 435 at the crank.... something does not add up sir...
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It's a vortech. They make more power than eatons. You can also add a bunch of timing on a dyno to inflate the actual numbers.
 
Curless said:
400 HP at 6.5 PSI??? Umm what else is done sir? 6.5 PSI @ 20 HP per # would be a 130 hp gain... these cars make 305 ish at the crank stock so that would put you at 435 at the crank.... something does not add up sir...
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makes 400hp at the rear wheels. crank horse would be well over 435hp.
 
RubberCtyRauder said:
put a smaller pulley on it, turn that boost up. you put forged stuff in that mmr block right? good to hear its fixed.
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I am for sure going to go up on boost. just gonna give my bank account time to recover from this stint. also gonna break the motor in a little and put some miles on it. next year I am gonna do 60lbs injectors and smaller pulley, probably go up to 15psi of boost.
 
Engine build items

Below is the complete list of everything I have had done to the engine and car:

  • Vortec V2 S/C 6.5psi
  • Icevex intercooler
  • BA5000 MAP Sensor
  • Big Red Race Valve
  • MMR 1000SE 4.75L All Forged Stroker Short Block @ 9.5/1 comp ratio
  • ARP Main and Rod Bolts
  • MMR S.S Valves .060 over on Intake
  • MMR S.S Valves .020 over on Exhaust
  • Manley Full Race valve springs
  • MMR Bronze Valve Guides
  • MMR Ultra Heavy Duty Full Race Valve seals
  • MMR Billet Aluminum Cam Spacers
  • ARP Head Studs
  • Grantelli Lightning COPs
  • NGK Iridium Plugs
  • MMR Plenum Spacer
  • Trans-Dapt Throttle Body Spacer
  • 39lbs injectors
  • 180* thermostat
  • Aeromotive 340LPH fuel pump
  • Rear head cooling X-over piping Mod
  • 4.10 gears LSD
  • TMS Custom made Offroad X-pipe (Front/ Rear Cat Delete)
  • SCT XCal4 Tuner
  • TMS Performance & Dyno Custom Tune
 
HorneDogg said:
I am for sure going to go up on boost. just gonna give my bank account time to recover from this stint. also gonna break the motor in a little and put some miles on it. next year I am gonna do 60lbs injectors and smaller pulley, probably go up to 15psi of boost.
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Engine break-in is a MYTH
 
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