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Todd TCE

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Since we are on the topic of brakes elsewhere on this for him I thought I would share the latest kit that we have produced once again for Crown Vic owners.

This kit was first produced about 6 years ago for a large security company in Virginia......for their training exercises. It's a simple four piston conversion kit for the factory rotor. They wanted the better cooling properties of the aluminum calipers combined with the ease of pad changes. Today if we started over I would suggest that they use the nickel plated calipers. But because they had a an additional set of caliper sitting around they need a new brackets.

Back to the drawing board a bit a small change to the bracket and we have them in business.

No idea what the demand for such caliper kits are here or in the Crown Vic World in general.

All said and done calipers brackets pads and hose kits included would probably run about $889.

Wheel clearance needs: by the drawing 1.79" plus the air gap.

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/Calip...Forged_Narrow_Superlite_4_Radial_Mt-cm-lg.jpg
 

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I'll throw up some more info on this tomorrow if anyone is interested.

*Wheel fit.
**Knuckle work.
***Pricing.
 
Wish you had a master cylinder upgrade or some sort of solution to get rid of the blank brake travel gap before it starts to engage.
 
Here is the front knuckle post mods. Both for the very early BSL6 kit and the steel plate that needed room for the caliper nubs, as well as the outer most mods where the radial bracket contacts it for the kit shown above. There is ample meat on this to remove what you see here. And if I run some more of them I might change the radius a tad to make removal a bit less. But you can't take much more off the bracket. *Mods here to the extreme right and left of the holes.

Why is this needed? This sucks, it shouldn't be done!~ Bad design!~ No..it's done only because the rotor is so small that the caliper has a super low mount height. This is not the case on the larger kits where the round bosses are farther from center line. There's simply no way around it on a 12" rotor.

Why would you want to do this kit? Truth is..I'm not sure. It was done specifically to the request of the g-man use above. For reasons stated. On the MM there is no increase in rotor size or mass. But...the pedal will be firmer, bias shifted a bit to the rear and response increased. If you're expecting to shave 20ft off your stopping distance I don't think that's going to happen. On the other hand having a sexy looking caliper set up on the front of you daily driver might be just the ticket if you want to spruce up the ride!
 

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PRICING: If we run more of them (by a show of hands..) the price will be $917 shipped. That's postal flat rate box, sig required, anywhere in the US. Black or Red.
 
Wheel fit: Take a steel ruler and measure from the inside of your spokes to the existing rotor. You'll need a shade under 2" of space here.

Look at the diagram in the first post, far right hand side, find the 1.79" spec. That's from the rotor surface to the caliper body outer surface. Add a bit of air gap to that, say .100" and you have 1.90" of space needed. Or a smidge over 48mm
 
Todd TCE said:
Wheel fit: Take a steel ruler and measure from the inside of your spokes to the existing rotor. You'll need a shade under 2" of space here.

Look at the diagram in the first post, far right hand side, find the 1.79" spec. That's from the rotor surface to the caliper body outer surface. Add a bit of air gap to that, say .100" and you have 1.90" of space needed. Or a smidge over 48mm
Click to expand...



1&5/8" puts you against the spoke. Will need a 1/2" spacer and should be plenty clearance for your 2" requirement.
dc2b8b12e83bcc77816b236453c3e4d9.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That kinda explains the value of marketing such a kit. Most don't want spacers and longer stud headaches.

How does the 14" kit fit?? We moved the rotor inboard farther.
 
Quote "Why would you want to do this kit? Truth is..I'm not sure. "
Other than better cooling properties & enhance cosmetic do you really believe that your kit would not result in a shorter stopping distance ? I would think going from a single piston caliper to a four piston would make a huge difference.
 
So few people do anything for the Panther platform anymore, now that it's been 6 years since being discontinued. Thanks, Todd! :up:
 
You're welcome. I try not to leave too many projects behind really. There are only a few things I've done that I don't still support today. I even sold some new rotors to a guy who had one of my SHO kits...from 1994! Figured they'd all be in the scrapper by now.
 
burt ragio said:
What are the advantages of a fixed caliper verses a float caliper ?
Click to expand...

Response, rigidity and feel. They have essentially no moving parts. Just the few thousandths of an inch of piston force from both sides. Whereas a sliding or floating caliper wastes energy moving moving on its bracket to actuate the outer pad.
 
Todd TCE said:
Response, rigidity and feel. They have essentially no moving parts. Just the few thousandths of an inch of piston force from both sides. Whereas a sliding or floating caliper wastes energy moving moving on its bracket to actuate the outer pad.
Click to expand...

^^^ This! ^^^

It's why high end cars have pistons on both sides of rotor for each pad. Same with aftermarket brake upgrades like Wilwood, Brembo, etc.
 
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