No oil pressure, no power, and cuts off.

R

RowdyRauder

New member
My 04' MM. Died on me yesterday. It has felt sluggish on wot for awhile. While passing a car yesterday it down shifted fine . RPMs were rising but, she wasn't moving much. Engine noise rattle. No warning lights. Noticed the oil pressure gauge at zero. Car quickly lost power and shut off. It was low 1.5 quarts. Added oil. No dice. Towed home. Hours later it starts. Oil pressure is normal then soon falls. Give it gas, no power , oil pressure drops again, bogs and dies. I love this car. Bought it used about 5 years ago. It only has 167,000 miles on it . Read through some of the oil pressure threads but, only found one with a similar story. But, don't know how it was resolved.:alone:
 
Drain it and try 5w40, why was it low on oil? Leak or burning it? What did your engine temp go to? There are others here that will have your answer but low, old, hot oil and you will have a very restrictive rotating assembly.

If you love it check the oil more often.
 
Temperature was good. The leak was at the oil sending. Switch . Front driver side . Can a bad oil pump cause this? Is it a safety feature to shut down like that? Thanks for your time guys.
 
The oil pressure switch is only connected to the gauge...nothing else in the car knows what the actual pressure is.

Yours is a slightly unusual problem in that once the pump fails, it usually doesn't "recover" the way you've described. Fortunately, replacing the pump is relatively easy and doesn't require removal of the oil pan.
 
RF Overlord said:
The oil pressure switch is only connected to the gauge...nothing else in the car knows what the actual pressure is.

Yours is a slightly unusual problem in that once the pump fails, it usually doesn't "recover" the way you've described. Fortunately, replacing the pump is relatively easy and doesn't require removal of the oil pan.
Click to expand...

Really???????

But you do have to remove the timing chains, tensioners, guides, timing gear off the crank, all the accessories off the front, the timing cover, but you don't have to drop the pan.....

So it's easy, lol.
 
That's why I said "relatively". If the oil pump is bad then it would probably be a good idea to at least do the tensioners and guides while it's apart and removing the oil pump at that point isn't a lot of extra work.
 
I bet your dealing with at least two different issues.

Bad gauge/ bad sending unit

And quite possibly a fuel pump or driver for stalling.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
RF Overlord said:
The oil pressure SWITCH is only connected to the gauge...nothing else in the car knows what the actual pressure is.

Yours is a slightly unusual problem in that once the pump fails, it usually doesn't "recover" the way you've described. Fortunately, replacing the pump is relatively easy and doesn't require removal of the oil pan.
Click to expand...

Take noticed in this post that your oil pressure is a switch not a sensor when it has pressure it reads normal pressure when it has none like if your pump failed it will read zero at that point you are running with no oil pressure and no or little flow so your engine was about to seize. THE GAUGE AND SENSOR DOES NOT READ YOUR TRUE OIL PRESSURE, IT'S A SWITCH
 
Zack said:
The oil pan most definitely needs to be removed to change the oil pump.
Click to expand...



Thank you, my thoughts exactly but didn't want to stick neck out but I remember having to remove the pickup tube stand to remove the pump on the cv
 
This reminds me of my 300k motor, it starts with good pressure but when it starts falling nothing brings it back up, didn't even respond to revs. Mechanical gauge swapped in, same issue. disassembled the motor, cleaned the heavy sludge out, replaced all timing components. good as new (well not new).
 
Zack said:
The pickup tube bolts to it from the bottom.

It is 'possible' but it would be quite challenging
Click to expand...



Did mine without removing the pan, was a bit tricky, don't know if it saved any time.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
 
Driver error? Lol. Thanks for the douche input.
Anyway. Mechanic looked at an thinks the it's a combination of oil pump
And maybe bearing has gone. Looks like I will be posting it for sale or trade on a CRv .
Thanks for the helpful posters.
 
RF Overlord said:
If you're referring to justbob's reply, I'm pretty sure he meant the fuel pump driver module, not the human driver.
Click to expand...



Correct. Some people take offense before actual comprehension takes place Bob. [emoji1303]

Then comes the snappy comebacks. Gee that hurt...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top