oil pan puzzle

A

azgolfrat

Member
Hey Guys,
I'm just not comfortable with the hole I punched and threaded in the front of my oil pan for the vortech supercharger drain back line. It just doesnt sit right with me as the connection is flimsy, sealed with RTV, and the kit from vortech brings the drain line very very close to the crankshaft pulley. Like 1/8 inch.
So.. I want to get that pan out and
1) Replace it with a stock pan, and get a solid bung welded in prior to reinstall, or
2) Buy a custom pan with a bung already in it.

Either way, the pan has to come out.
So..my shop manual says to drop cross member 2...which is a real pain. Do-able, but the engine has to hang and all the control arms must be disconnected, plus other crap.

Is there another way?

Thanks
-KK
 
Blazen,
Yes, I know about the pan from Chris...it does look awesome :-)
BUT...is there an easy way to get the pan out?
I have a feeling I'm whining. :/

FYI - going to Wisconsin this summer for some golf and to visit my daughter who lives near Madison.
 
Something like this?
iu
 
I changed my pan in the fall of 2019. I guess it was not that bad as I don't remember much of the work. You really should get or rent an engine holder. I bought the OTC model which is nice. You do need the service manual for all the torque specs and pan tightening procedure as well as general procedures.

Here is a thread just on the engine support. Most folks recommend not using the crank pulley as I did and bolting the chain to the engine

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?108120-Where-to-connect-engine-support-to-engine&p=1582421&highlight=#post1582421
 
Jaywish,
Thanks.

I bought the harbor freight 80 dollar engine support bar...2 inches too short :/ Taking it back shortly.

I own a hoist, so I will use that. The only problem with using the hoist is that it uses up the other side of the garage space, so my 2nd car will have to spend the night outside unless I do the job in 1 day, which is the goal.

I have the shop manual with all the procedures and torques. AND I bought the mondo torque wrench (max 250 ft lbs) from Harbor freight.

Time to order a new pan.

Thanks again.
 
If you do that I highly suggest using loctite on the nut. Also, there isn’t much room in front of the pan but it is absolutely necessary to use a hold back wrench on the bulkhead itself. Without doing so at minimum when loosening the AN hose the next time you need to (and you will, because modified car..) the bulkhead will loosen.

Personally I’d have none of that. Especially if I was already removing the pan. Everything I take off gets bulletproofed the best I can do or at least afford to rid future headaches. That being said there would be a nice deeply threaded nut welded to the inside fo sho. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
If you are going thru all the work and effort to pull the pan, have a fitting TIG welded in. Permanent fix, no future problems of bulkhead fitting failure, having to pull pan yet again, etc.
 
The welder refused to weld it on my pan hence the bulkhead fitting that is sealed tight with the appropriate sealant.
 
it gets oil soaked and the weld doesnt adhere right. I personally would take it to someone who will remove the bung thats jacked up, weld it shut after cleaning... and proceed to put the hole in another spot. Damn, Dennis Reinhart did this silver with a vortech and if he can do it, so can anyone else... Or can you just go one size larger on the portion going into the pan and use grey locktite oil pan gasket maker. So much faster.
 
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