Oil pressure

FordNut

FordNut

Contributing Member
I just installed the functional oil pressure gauge and was concerned about the pressure I'm running. It seems high but maybe the modular motors are supposed to be that way (or maybe the sending unit is not calibrated). Anyway, I get about 80 psi at idle and it shoots up over 100 psi when I rev it to 2-3 grand. Is this normal?

Fixin' to change my signature, no longer bone stock (Silverstars, K&N, real Autometer gauges, 35% tint, KB dead pedal, smoked lic. plate cover, soon to have Reinhart delta chip, 4.10s, SVO girdle, 180 thermostat, Denso IT20s, PI oil cooler, Bassani x-pipe, Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W30, Mobil 1 oil filter, synthetic gear lube).
 
I'd say 70-80 lbs is about right at idle... Better than this guys Firebird (1969) that I installed a gauge on... 0-5psi at idle! That was a mess of a car!
 
Nut:

I think Flash, who I believe was the first of us to do this, said he runs about 50 lbs at idle and up to 75 when running...

The wiring instructions on AutoMeter's web site state that the sender should automatically be grounded when installed, but if not, separate grounding of the sender body may be required. You state that you used teflon tape on the threads, so maybe you aren't getting a good ground on the sender?

Maybe try re-installing the sender without the tape just to see...I'm going to do the install as soon as weather conditions permit...
 
Good point on the teflon tape RF. His readings sound high....he probably does have a high resistance connection and not grounded properly. As far as we know the Voltmeter works fine. When I change mine out I will test the factory one and post the results on here. I bought both gauges and they are sitting in my office. I was waiting for the first oil change to crawl under the car and install the sender.
 
No, but the lighting on the factory one doesn't match the aftermarket functional oil pressure gauge even though they're both made by Autometer. The lettering on the face of the gauge is also a little bit different but not enough that it would be noticed.
 
I'll check the teflon tape later this week. The original sending unit had teflon tape on it when removed. I know it works differently, but I was more concerned with oil leakage at the time I installed it.
 
FordNut, I'm always looking to learn new things about the MM. When you get a moment, would you explain some of the things in your sig? I don't understand "silverstars," and "SVO girdle", nor how they affect the MM. I wouild also like to say thank for exploring the gauge fix. I'm not inclined to make any changes myself right now, but should that time come, you have taken some of the mystery of of it. Thanks again.
 
stanleyk:

I believe the voltmeter is legit...you can demonstrate by momentarily clicking a window switch up, when the window is already up...you'll see the voltmeter dip. Also try putting on the headlights with high-beam while watching the gauge...you'll see it dip a little...same thing if you step on the brakes...etc...

I don't think the real AutoMeter gauges look different enough to warrant replacing the voltmeter, but it's easy to do, especially if you're already taking the panel out to do the O.P. gauge...voltmeters are relatively inexpensive, too...
 
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Thanks RF. I didn't see much deflection in my volt meter and that is why I asked. I keep using my "boating" knowledge and on boats I can throw on a heavy draw (such as a radar) and watch for the expected result.
 
Put the car in drive, step on the brake, have the headlights on high, turn on the heater and the stereo, click the window switch, and push in the cigarette lighter ALL AT THE SAME TIME and you'll see a heavy draw, alright...
 
Sarge,
I believe the Silverstars in FordNuts sig refers to Sylvania SilverStar replacement headlight bulbs. I have them in my MM as well and they are well worth the money. A brighter, whiter lamp than the OEM bulb. The OEM bulbs thru that smoked cover were alittle dim IMHO.
 
RF: I am not sure I am that talented! My hands haven't been in that many places at one time since I was in highschool!! ;)
 
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After installing a real AutoMeter Oil Pressure gauge, the face of the new one looked so much better to me at night I decided to kinda do like Logan and install a AutoMeter Tranny Temp gauge where the volt meter was, Logan put in a third hole for his gauge. I'm not worried about not seeing the Volt Meter because we still have the “red battery” idiot light in our dash.
My oil pressure is like FordNut’s when the engine is cool, after about 25 miles of driving the engine is good and warmed up the oil pressure reads 25 psi @t idle and 60-62 psi @ speed, same reading as the stock unit and right within the limits specified in the Shop Manual.
 
Flash-man:

Thank you, sir...I was concerned about the apparent difference in readings...I will hereby proceed apace with mine own installation...

FordNut: Let us know if your readings correspond with Flash's when your motor's warm...?
 
Thanks Flash:
It snowed here again so I haven't driven it to warm it up yet. I won't drive this black beauty in the salt if I don't have to. Hopefully warming it up will bring it in line.

Wolfe, Sarge:
Yes the Silverstars are the bulbs and they're considerably brighter. Got mine at AutoZone for $20 each and get a $10 rebate. The SVO girdle is aan aluminum rear end cover with cast-in support for the bearing caps in the rear end. Is it necessary? No, maybe in a high horsepower car that spends a lot of time at the strip. But it looks cool.

Appointment for chip install next Sat. I decided to postpone my dyno runs until after the chip install so I can do more comparisons: Stock, Stock w/K&N filter, 91 octane setting, 93 octane setting. Data, data, data.
 
We're looking forward to those comparison Dyno pulls, Fordnut. Personally, I am ESPECIALLY looking for the with/without K&N Filter. I put the 2012 in mine, no real "seat of the pants" affect, so that will be interesting.
 
I ordered the M-4033-G from my Ford SVT parts guy. I believe it was about $150. Lots of other places have them including Summit, MAC, others. Most of the others are cheaper, the lowest price I found was $119. I went with the Ford part because I wanted the machined SVO lettering in it, even though it won't be seen unless you're under the car.
 
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