Stall Converter/Tx cooling

Pat

Pat

Silverback
Hi Ho Membership;

With the renewed interest in stall converters for our MM's and the current group buy via Reinhart Automotive I wanted to share some things that my installer mentioned to me.

1. A transmission oil cooler is a real good idea. Higher stall speeds mean higher fluid temperatures. This is also explained on many of the vendor web sites.

2. Mercon V, vs older version with additive mixed in. Tech's say that it's OK to use the older Mercon and mix in the additive. Trouble seems that folks don't follow directions on the mix ratios. I don't think mixing older Vs newer fluids is good, MHO.

4. Deep sump oil pan is nice to have but not necessary with oil cooler, but shouldn't be used in lieu of oil cooler and higher stall converter. May not provide enough cooling. He did agree that the drain plug is a nice convenient way to change your own oil.

5. Cost of converter installation was about 400.00 plus fluid.
6. Cost of oil cooler - $135.00, labor to install $70.00

7. My tuner advised me that updating the tune solely because of a higher stall converter is not needed, but to try it out first. He did say that the shifts will seem softer.

Cost of course may vary but this get's the juices flowing.


Pat
 
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Get ready you should get a lot of feedback on this one......



The Fluid
Use ONLY REAL MerconV,no old stuff with additive.
Mercon V is availiable at EVERY Ford dealer go buy your own if the installer will not get THE RIGHT STUFF for your transmission! Only Merc.V for me.


Deep Pan
Restores the total fluid capicity back to the near stock leval.The converter holds about 2 quarts less than stock.I have a FRPP Pan.

Cooler
If you have a Trans temp gauge you can monitor the temp.be ready to pull over if the temp starts to rise. Or just spend the $50 or so bucks and add a cooler. The highest I've seen in 40,000 miles is 185f at the pan last summer in Bumper to Bumper traffic in Pheonix.After we started rolling it dropped to 165 in less than 5 miles.I have a B&M cooler.

Tune.
YMMV. Up to you.I couldn't stand it when the converter unlocked in OD and the RPM went to 3500 and the car didn't pick up speed.Shifting off OD and the car would take off in third.
I didn't mess with the shifting,I just had the Unlock function delayed in OD and Third. My car burbles coasting down in OD and 3rd just like a stick car does.

Good luck
 
oil quantity lower

Lance;

I didn't know nor have I read that a high speed stall converter stores less oil than stock. They are smaller?

A deep pan would make sense. Marking that down as an item to get before installation.

I don't understand your last comments about unlocking. Since I have no experience other than stock, I guess I'll have to see how the new converter
manifests itself.

Thanks.

Pat
 
pat said:
7. My tuner advised me that updating the tune solely because of a higher stall converter is not needed,.....
Pat
Click to expand...

Test your car at WOT.

All of us with early 300a bdm0 had a big problem with the 2-3 shift. An odd dead spot that was VERY noticable.

If you don't have it, and trust me, you'll know...booya to you.

As far lubes...stay away from synthetics. Use WHAT IS REQUIRED. Screw what your 'tuner' says.

Again...ask us how we KNOW.

Good luck and enjoy.
Aren't lauches wild now?:cool:
 
What was the fix for the dead spot as after a tune at DR's it was very noticable. Server verision later it was better but I still feel it. Thanks for your solution
 
Go with MERCON V fluid... I use nothing but... It works great... and helps to protect as well as kepp power from being robbed ...
 
Tuning update??

CRUZTAKER said:
Test your car at WOT.

All of us with early 300a bdm0 had a big problem with the 2-3 shift. An odd dead spot that was VERY noticable.

Screw what your 'tuner' says.

Again...ask us how we KNOW.

Good luck and enjoy.
Aren't lauches wild now?:cool:
Click to expand...

Cruztaker: You do have a good reputation, so what you say I will take seriously. I have an O4 Marauder that seems to shift good and proper so the 03 model's problems may not be applicable. However I will be on the lookout.

I discovered today that there is a relatively new shop complete with dyno and tuning/retuning capability in my metroplex. I'm going to visit him today and find out what he can do if I need to have pressures, shift pointsm etc adjusted.

Thanks,

Pat
 
The higher stall converter (At least the PI, http://www.converter.com/stallion.htm) is smaller in diamerter than stock (~11"?). As such it holds less fluid. The pan replaces this capacity.

Just cuz a pan is deep don't mean it cools. I chose the Art Carr pan for it's integrated cooling fins as a stop-gap measure until I can make my way to a cooler and a guage.

Last but not least, a note on tuning: No you don't NEED a tune after a converter, but a tune by an EXPERIENCED tuner with our HEAVY cars is invaluable as far as setting shift points, TC lockout, etc.

To put it all together, a Torque Converter is just that. It multipies the car's available torque by a factor of up to 2.5 (according to PI http://www.converter.com/torqueratio.htm). As such, you would want your car tuned to maximize torque and thereby take advantage of your investement in a torque converter.
 
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