Stalling out...

Matt Johnson

Matt Johnson

Matt Johnson
I've searched and found multiple threads on this issue, but none seem to nail down a resolution.

My MM with 39,500 miles started stalling out in gear at speeds just above idle several weeks ago.

Now it's happening more frequently.

Each time it happens, I simply stop, put the car in Park, and restart.

It's one thing to do this in a parking lot or as I'm pulling out of my driveway, it's another to do it in city traffic.

Has anyone nailed down this issue to a single fix? (I don't believe it has to do with the low idle RPM either - that hasn't changed on my vehicle since it was new, but the stalling is definitely a 'new' problem).
 
Idle Air Control Valve may be sticking & needs replaced. Some members on this site had similar symptoms & that was usually the problem. Hope this helps. :)
 
I think I actually had that replaced about 4-5 months ago - an erroneous replacement for an EVAP code which was fixed a week later at the dealer.
 
This exact same thing used to happen on my 2000 CVPI on a fairly-somewhat-too-often basis. For some reason, it only seemed to happen as I was turning a corner at slow speeds, backing out of a driveway, etc.

It happened about 10 times over the course of a year and I was never able to figure out what was causing the problem. The car ran perfectly and would start right back up and continue to run perfectly, but it was horribly unnerving when you might get killed because of it!

I wound up putting a brand new, complete from top to bottom (throttle body, fuel rails, etc., on down to the oil pan) Ford crate engine in the car and I've never had the problem since (25,000 miles on the new engine).

This tells me that the problem must've been something "up front" and not a fuel filter, fuel pump, etc. It must've been some sort of sensor or other part attached to the engine, because all of that stuff was replaced in the engine swap and the problem completely disappeared.

I'm surprised to hear this on a Marauder. It's the first time I've ever heard this complaint, although it pops up from time to time on the Crown Vic sites.
 
Mine has done it about half a dozen times or so, from what I could tell it almost seemed like the belt slipped, stopped turning the alternator pulley for a sec just enough to shut the car down. Put it in N and it would start right back up. It only seemed to happen to me when I would be making a turn and tap the gas like doing a U-turn or pulling into a parallel parking spot
 
Replace IAC...

melfunkshun said:
Idle Air Control Valve may be sticking & needs replaced. Some members on this site had similar symptoms & that was usually the problem. Hope this helps. :)
Click to expand...

Yep, that's what my case was when I first purchased the Marauder way back in OCT.02.

Done it before my first scheduled maintenance, I drove it to the dealer as is and had the IAC replaced, I'm over 30,000 mi. now and no problem since.

Use OEM parts.
 
ctrlraven said:
Mine has done it about half a dozen times or so, from what I could tell it almost seemed like the belt slipped, stopped turning the alternator pulley for a sec just enough to shut the car down. Put it in N and it would start right back up. It only seemed to happen to me when I would be making a turn and tap the gas like doing a U-turn or pulling into a parallel parking spot
Click to expand...

All of the cars electronics, ignition etc. run off the battery.
The alternator is there to CHARGE the battery.

Sounds like the IAC to me.
 
My car has done this twice and each time it was idling through a parking lot in drive. I have noticed that the idle rpm's when it happens are bellow 500rpm's both times but the engine is not idling rough.
 
My 2004 does it a lot. I was pulling out of a parking spot the other day and it died. My friend says "I have never seen a person stall and automatic before, wow". If it doesn't stall, the idle will dip momentarily and the battery light will come on. Only 29,000 miles.
 
Mine did the same thing under minimal load and alot when turning, and sometimes when I was just rolling. I have under drives so they might have been the cause. I simply had my idle bumped to about a grand and no more stalling.
 
I also vote for the IAC Valve.


Be aware that there are differences between IAC's that even look exactly the same as each other. When you buy one, they get one for you specific vehicle. The computer has a special map in it just for this thing, like the MAF sensor. It also has an adaptive learning. However, there are limits its learning.

My second suspect would be a dirty or bad MAF. The readings from the MAF are used to adjust the IAC.


This is best to troubleshoot with datalogging. A good SCT dealer or ProRacer should be able to help you out.


*Edit* After looking at your sig, DR Tune & JLT:
1) With the engine off, remove the Air filter and spray a quick shot of "Electronics Parts Cleaner" on the MAF hot wire.
2) Ask DR to double check your tune that for the Idle strategy stuff.


John
 
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Matt,

I have an IAC valve that I'd be glad to send you to try......It is used but OK. I put a new one on while trying the IAC "Restrictor" mod and never put the old one back on!!??:shake: It would be a quick way to see without spending $70.00 or so??:cool:

BTW.....If you buy a new one be sure to get only the Motorcraft one.....Aftermarket ones are not the best!!:shake:

PM me your address if you want to try it.

Marauderjack:burnout:
 
Marauderjack said:
Matt,

I have an IAC valve that I'd be glad to send you to try......It is used but OK. I put a new one on while trying the IAC "Restrictor" mod and never put the old one back on!!??:shake: It would be a quick way to see without spending $70.00 or so??:cool:

BTW.....If you buy a new one be sure to get only the Motorcraft one.....Aftermarket ones are not the best!!:shake:

PM me your address if you want to try it.

Marauderjack:burnout:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer, but I'm going to take the thing to the dealer this week anyway for some routine stuff that I don't have the time to do myself. I'll let them take care of it and make sure the right parts go to the right places....
 
Just a note on IAC's, often times they only need a throrough cleaning rather than replacement. I've repaired a few malfunctioning IAC's that were simply "stuck" from excessive carbon buildup.
 
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