Supercharged Marauder Throwing Code P0340 NEED HELP PLEASE!

B

BackNBlack

Member
All of a sudden CHECK ENGINE light comes on last Saturday after a 35 minute drive (stopped for an errand, came back out...started up...CHECK ENGINE)

Car ran fine and continued to while I searched and found closest Auto Zone for an OBD2 Read. 2 Codes found...1 regarding Cam Timing and 1 regarding Fuel Pressure Sensor Gauge - NOTE: I was an IDIOT and didn't write down the actual codes! Asked AZ Kid to "Clear the Codes' and i drive 40 mins home...NO CODE...NO sign of any concern...drives fine.

Arrive home...shut down...walk inside for few minutes...come back out...Start up & - CHECK ENGINE ! So I park the car till today...Start the car...CHECK ENGINE...drive to another AZ...OBD2 Reader scan and PO340 is the Code...only ONE CODE...

PO340 = Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

Who has thoughts? Ideas? Solutions? Warnings? Insight?

NEED HELP PLEASE!
 
I don't have experence with that particular error code, but it sounds self explanatory. The camshaft position sensor is located at the top of the block facing the front of the car on the far right and left extremes, just below where the heads meet the block. I have no idea if it's as simple as just swapping it out, or if connecting a new sensor requires calibration, but they sell the part in Autozone for $28. If you're comfortable working on your car yourself, just do some research to find out if "Circuit A" is the passenger or driver side, and confirm that there's no special calibration required.

If there is calibration involved or if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, it might be worth just bringing it to a shop and letting them do it. If it really is just the sensor, it might not be as big and expensive of a job as your imagining.
 
RocsMerc said:
I don't have experence with that particular error code, but it sounds self explanatory. The camshaft position sensor is located at the top of the block facing the front of the car on the far right and left extremes, just below where the heads meet the block. I have no idea if it's as simple as just swapping it out, or if connecting a new sensor requires calibration, but they sell the part in Autozone for $28. If you're comfortable working on your car yourself, just do some research to find out if "Circuit A" is the passenger or driver side, and confirm that there's no special calibration required.

If there is calibration involved or if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, it might be worth just bringing it to a shop and letting them do it. If it really is just the sensor, it might not be as big and expensive of a job as your imagining.
Click to expand...


Thanks SO MUCH for the response!
 
Comin' in Hot said:
If you change the sensor, get one from Ford
Click to expand...


Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
 
Comin' in Hot said:
If you change the sensor, get one from Ford
Click to expand...


Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, corrosion, bad/bent connections etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
 
BackNBlack said:
Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, corrosion, bad/bent connections etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Is it the same code? If it is the same code, there are 3 electrical connectors that could be loose or corroded. The one at the sensor, the one where the engine harness connects to the chassis harness, and the one that connects to the PCM.
 
FordNut said:
Is it the same code? If it is the same code, there are 3 electrical connectors that could be loose or corroded. The one at the sensor, the one where the engine harness connects to the chassis harness, and the one that connects to the PCM.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! They SAY they checked the circuit with a volt meter ALL the way back to the PCM.

So then my next question is...what IF...the Camshaft IS ACTUALLY "out of timing"...and the sensor is ACTUALLY working...how DIFFICULT is it to check/adjust on our motors? Can you do it in the car, by just removing the fly wheel? Or...do you have to take OFF the front cover of the motor (BIG JOB!)??
 
BackNBlack said:
Thanks for the response! They SAY they checked the circuit with a volt meter ALL the way back to the PCM.

So then my next question is...what IF...the Camshaft IS ACTUALLY "out of timing"...and the sensor is ACTUALLY working...how DIFFICULT is it to check/adjust on our motors? Can you do it in the car, by just removing the fly wheel? Or...do you have to take OFF the front cover of the motor (BIG JOB!)??
Click to expand...

It can be done in the car, but it's a pretty big job. Cam covers, timing cover, front pulleys/belts, harmonic balancer would need to come off, maybe more.
 
FordNut said:
It can be done in the car, but it's a pretty big job. Cam covers, timing cover, front pulleys/belts, harmonic balancer would need to come off, maybe more.
Click to expand...


OUCH! Sounds 'Spensive...

Dealer is wanting to help...their offer today is to schedule with their BEST Master Tech (1st available date October 9th) ...
$600.00 MIN UP FRONT...turn him loose...and call with a resolve or an estimate after $600 hourly rate met...

I don't have much choice. Wish I was closer to who helped me with the build. But moving to the middle of nowhere was just TOO GOOD!
 
Last edited:
BackNBlack said:
OUCH! Sounds 'Spensive...

Dealer is wanting to help...their offer today is to schedule with their BEST Master Tech (1st available date October 9th) ...
$600.00 MIN UP FRONT...turn him loose...and call with a resolve or an estimate after $600 hourly rate met...

I don't have much choice. Wish I was closer to who helped me with the build. But moving to the middle of nowhere was just TOO GOOD!
Click to expand...

Trailer it to Marty.
 
Had same issue with my Crown Vic last month--looked up where its located to replace on You tube--found out its easy right in front of engine--a plug and play thing-- so ordered it and put it in my self--code gone and all runs well --cost bout $ 50 ==not sure but MM may be same location--
 
Marauderman said:
Had same issue with my Crown Vic last month--looked up where its located to replace on You tube--found out its easy right in front of engine--a plug and play thing-- so ordered it and put it in my self--code gone and all runs well --cost bout $ 50 ==not sure but MM may be same location--
Click to expand...

Unfortunately...my CHECK ENGINE light is back on following replacement...Tom...looks like I'm gonna fund the "exploratory search" beginning October 8th...with no other good choices. i.e. I MUST pass annual State inspection in December, and you CAN'T PASS with a CHECK ENGINE light...rendering it "undrivable legally"
 
Thanks, Bill...they put in a new Battery (Motorcraft 850 Super Duty *which is ALL I've ever run...and told me the CHECK ENGINE was GONE!) I went to pick up the car...started it up...CHECK ENGINE light was ON as soon as I fired it up!

Since then they took time to chase electrical connections. They have now FOUND that the PCM is NOT sending ANY Current to the Camshaft Sensor Unit Bank #1 that I have had replaced. But then again...the question is...If there is NO current going TO that sensor...then HOW is it "intermittently" throwing a code??!!

They had me check with my Tuner to make sure the current WAS NOT shut off in the tune...which of course it wasn't. NOW...we are doing some driving and Data Logging to see if the dealer can turn ON the current to the sensor using their IDS. *WITHOUT messing with the Tune!

ALSO...I'm on a SEARCH for another PCM...in case THAT is the issue. Hopefully @mustangeddie can come through for me?!
 
Typical Dealer, don't know how to troubleshoot electrical issues. They just want to change parts until they luck upon what fixes the problem. Good luck finding a PCM that matches your vehicle.
 
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