Trans drain plug and engine hiss

Bill Lalk

Bill Lalk

speedracer
I have done a search and did not find exactly what I was looking for. Sorry. Has anyone installed a drain plug in the factory trans pan? I can't see spending $100 and putting my pan on the shelf(or tossing it out) if I can install a plug. Obviuosly I need a permantly mounting receptical for the actual plug. Two parts houses in my small town have no clue what I want. Advice on a part # or who carries this set-up is greatly appreciated.
2nd problem. I installed a DR tune on my otherwise stock 04'. Didn't work right so, before sending tuner back to Dennis, I reinstalled factory tune and tried to start it, forgeting to reinstall fuel pump fuse 1st. Now I have aquired a hiss(?) from the right side top of engine just after I turn it off. This was never there before. It lasts for about 5+ seconds and sounds like its pressure/air bleeding off. It sounds like its coming from the fuel rail. Any suggestions?
 
Bill Lalk said:
I have done a search and did not find exactly what I was looking for. Sorry. Has anyone installed a drain plug in the factory trans pan? I can't see spending $100 and putting my pan on the shelf(or tossing it out) if I can install a plug. Obviuosly I need a permantly mounting receptical for the actual plug. Two parts houses in my small town have no clue what I want. Advice on a part # or who carries this set-up is greatly appreciated.
2nd problem. I installed a DR tune on my otherwise stock 04'. Didn't work right so, before sending tuner back to Dennis, I reinstalled factory tune and tried to start it, forgeting to reinstall fuel pump fuse 1st. Now I have aquired a hiss(?) from the right side top of engine just after I turn it off. This was never there before. It lasts for about 5+ seconds and sounds like its pressure/air bleeding off. It sounds like its coming from the fuel rail. Any suggestions?
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Trans drian plug - I'd try Jegs or Summit. Or try a machine shop. FYI.. most people install the deeper pan for the extra cooling it provides and the extra fluid it holds.
 
Hiss is likely A/C pressure equalizing. The orifice tube is in the A/C line on the right side of the engine. If that is what you are hearing, it is normal.
 
carfixer said:
Hiss is likely A/C pressure equalizing. The orifice tube is in the A/C line on the right side of the engine. If that is what you are hearing, it is normal.
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Thanks, I will check that. But, we always turn off our AC/heater shortly before turning off the engine. You think there's still some kind of AC pressure even when its turned off? I know the fuel pressure is always high, thought I may have did something by trying to start it with fuel pump disconnected.
 
Bill Lalk said:
I have done a search and did not find exactly what I was looking for. Sorry. Has anyone installed a drain plug in the factory trans pan? I can't see spending $100 and putting my pan on the shelf(or tossing it out) if I can install a plug. Obviuosly I need a permantly mounting receptical for the actual plug. Two parts houses in my small town have no clue what I want. Advice on a part # or who carries this set-up is greatly appreciated.
2nd problem. I installed a DR tune on my otherwise stock 04'. Didn't work right so, before sending tuner back to Dennis, I reinstalled factory tune and tried to start it, forgeting to reinstall fuel pump fuse 1st. Now I have aquired a hiss(?) from the right side top of engine just after I turn it off. This was never there before. It lasts for about 5+ seconds and sounds like its pressure/air bleeding off. It sounds like its coming from the fuel rail. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...


I have the Ford stock pan with drain in stock, and you do not need to pull the fuel pump fuse on a Marauder, to program it, the his is probably a vacuum leak
 
The hiss sounds liek a vacuum leak to me. THe car stores vacuum using reservoirs. If there is a vacuum leak you will hear the air escaping for a short time despite the engine being turned off.

You can hook up an el cheap-o vacuum gauge from your FLAPs using a hose barb inline of say, the PCV or brake booster vacuum hose to test this. Hook up the barb on the gauge's tubing, disconnect the hose from the brake booster and put the hose barb in snugly. Start the car but do not move it for about a minute, with the hood popped. Observe the vacuum while running, it should build. Turn off the car and observe how fast the vacuum supply is depeleted.

Make sure to plug the hose back into the brake booster check valve when you're done.

I don't see how a tune could in any cause a hiss nise to occur, maybe you bumped off the PCV vacuum hose whiel working under the hood.


You can get a B&M Transmission pan drain plug for ~$6 on Summit. Welding it in is preffered, but you probably won't have issues installing it as directed.
 
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Thanks, I'll pick one up at Summit, and I can weld it in. As far as the air bleed off noise, I never thought to check vacuum, thanks. BUT, I may have miss led you, I am not saying the tune had anything to do with it. What happened was, the install instructions said to pull the fan fuse and fuel pump fuse. After changing tune, I tried to start the engine forgetting to reinstall those 2 fuses. Car did not run, realized my mistake, reinstalled fuses and started engine. The following day is when I first started hearing that bleed-off hiss from right top engine area and thought I may have somehow damaged a fuel rail or something.
 
Bill Lalk said:
Thanks, I'll pick one up at Summit, and I can weld it in. As far as the air bleed off noise, I never thought to check vacuum, thanks. BUT, I may have miss led you, I am not saying the tune had anything to do with it. What happened was, the install instructions said to pull the fan fuse and fuel pump fuse. After changing tune, I tried to start the engine forgetting to reinstall those 2 fuses. Car did not run, realized my mistake, reinstalled fuses and started engine. The following day is when I first started hearing that bleed-off hiss from right top engine area and thought I may have somehow damaged a fuel rail or something.
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I like this just as well and no welding required

00-00-1161614529-DSC00046.JPG
 
If you can weld, just buy an oil drain plug at your local auto parts store, and a castelated nut to match it (either at Home Depot or the auto parts store - think suspension parts).
Drill the hole in the pan where the downward bump is so that it faces toward the rear, place the castelated nut up side down on the inside of the pan and screw in the plug to keep the nut properly located during welding. Tack weld the nut in a few places. Remove the plug. Take a wide file and smooth out the outside of the pan around where you welded since the heat can cause a little deformation where the plug seal interfaces to the pan. Reinstall the oil fill plug.

Why a castellated nut up side down you ask? So that you can get almost all the oil out of the pan... the oil flows between the 'castles' on the nut.

Very simple and no leaks like you'll get with those add on pieces that B&M or Summit sells.

If you still want a B&M or Summit plug, PM me... I have a couple of them that I won't be using.
 
Copper Washers

Ozz said:
Very simple and no leaks like you'll get with those add on pieces that B&M or Summit sells.

If you still want a B&M or Summit plug, PM me... I have a couple of them that I won't be using.
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The B&M drain plug kits don't have to leak. I haven't installed one in quite a while, but I still own a couple
cars that I used these on years ago, and there's not so much as a seep.

The problem with the B&M drain plug kits is the junk plastic washers they use. Soft copper washers will
seal better, and won't deform with heat and time like the plastic ones do.

Not saying the B&M kits are the best way to do things, mind you, just that they don't have to leak...
 
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