Nightcrawler
Vortech'd
Hey marty, do you have a build thread somewhere?
What would it take to get a MM in the 9's?
- Thread starter Nightcrawler
- Start date
chief455
New member
that is the correct way to do it. get your baseline, set a new goal, and then a plan to achieve it.
I've used many of the options on this link, found to be pretty close
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
plug in some of your base line data, then play with wight, power and gear ratios/rpms/trap mph and see what it might take 'on paper'. Then have lot's of money ready.
Sherm mentioned in the YouTube video of his car he was making just a bit over 700 and he went 10.42 with a trap speed of 134.51. I'm guessing between 750 and 800 to the wheels will get you in the nines. I know it's a different car but they weigh around they same as ours, 820 to the wheels if I remember correctly got a V2 CTS-V in the 9.7 blower only and with a 150 shot he went very high 8s. They both and positive displacement blowers though and power under the curve could make a big difference
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Nightcrawler
Vortech'd
My setup has about 30-40 more hp left in the tune, and I'm planning to put methanol injection, and a 2.75 pulley on it. Shouldn't be too hard to get 700whp out of it then.
Injected Engineering's car made 829rwhp though, and it hasn't broken into the 9's to my knowledge.
justbob
Sick-Speed play toy
We had to stop mine at 5,700 and only 704 due to the OEM GT500 clutch I'm running said no more LOL. Sucked as the F1 was just starting to wake up and I had plenty of fuel on tap plus the fact it was a 12 hour drive.. But even if I got a real clutch and spun her to mid 800's I wouldn't see 9's with a manual. [emoji20]
My best guess would be mid 800's, a damn good tire, cool air, and most importantly KNOWING your cars behavior.
Builder Of Badassery
My best guess would be mid 800's, a damn good tire, cool air, and most importantly KNOWING your cars behavior.
Builder Of Badassery
Nightcrawler
Vortech'd
I would be happy for my MM to run sub 10.5s. That would put it in the top 10 cars in my area when we go down to Mexico. justbob how did you run your return lines? Looking to convert mine to return soon.
justbob
Sick-Speed play toy
2) -6's to the wye on the frame, -8 into the Magnafuel filter.
-8 to FRPS adapter at back of drivers side rail (not yet hooked back up) -6 through the drivers rail, looped to front of pass. rail, out the back, and 180* to the regulator mounted on a custom EGR delete/ regulator mount. -6 back to trunk.
Two Aeromotive 340's with one hooked up like stock using the factory nipple, the other hooked to a -6 bulkhead with another -6 bulkhead for the return.
Why all the -6? The custom rails came with all the fittings and hose, plus all the stuff I had laying around needed to be burned up due to budget. It performed flawlessly.
Builder Of Badassery
-8 to FRPS adapter at back of drivers side rail (not yet hooked back up) -6 through the drivers rail, looped to front of pass. rail, out the back, and 180* to the regulator mounted on a custom EGR delete/ regulator mount. -6 back to trunk.
Two Aeromotive 340's with one hooked up like stock using the factory nipple, the other hooked to a -6 bulkhead with another -6 bulkhead for the return.
Why all the -6? The custom rails came with all the fittings and hose, plus all the stuff I had laying around needed to be burned up due to budget. It performed flawlessly.
Builder Of Badassery
Nightcrawler
Vortech'd
How would you suggest I plumb the return line? If I helps I have dual GT pumps and aeromotive rails. -8an all the way. I was thinking of doing a -6 return.
justbob
Sick-Speed play toy
-8 to feed from rail to regulator, -6 back return to hat. Run the line down between the pumps and done. I have all my lines neatly clamped to the frame with Stainless rubber sleeve clamps. You can use your old factory feed line for the return like many here with good power have done without issue. Mine was kinked and I wanted to gut out all the evap lines anyhow. It gave me a clean slate to mount the new lines on the frame and clean things up.
You can do it several ways. This just worked best for me because I didn't want any fuel waiting at the hot engine to be used up. I wanted a consistent flow.
Builder Of Badassery
Nightcrawler
Vortech'd
Which regulator are you running? I was going to run -6 black braided lines, and this regulator: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/regulators/13101/a1000-injected-bypass-regulator/
Would my dual GT/BAP setup live with 100% duty, and how would I go about removing the hat to get to to the pumps?
Would my dual GT/BAP setup live with 100% duty, and how would I go about removing the hat to get to to the pumps?
justbob
Sick-Speed play toy
That's the same one I use. Not sure on the GT pumps, no personal experience. Most any Aeromotive, AEM, Walbro, ETC prefer to just be ran instead of cycled from what I've read. I've had good luck using Aeromotive and Walbro in both set ups.
As for the hat. Make sure tank is only around a quarter full or less, remove the passenger side exhaust tip hanger and push the tailpipe over an inch or so. Remove the hat screws and pull it out. I've always swapped pumps with it dangling because the wires are next to impossible to reach and unplug. Last time I just cut them and soldered on a new weather pack connector.
Builder Of Badassery
As for the hat. Make sure tank is only around a quarter full or less, remove the passenger side exhaust tip hanger and push the tailpipe over an inch or so. Remove the hat screws and pull it out. I've always swapped pumps with it dangling because the wires are next to impossible to reach and unplug. Last time I just cut them and soldered on a new weather pack connector.
Builder Of Badassery
Junkyard LS swap out of a van with a turbo. BAM! 10 grand or less.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrG29DPVVFw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrG29DPVVFw
RubberCtyRauder
Weißbirke Plünderer
Nobody thought of the easiest route. Only run it at 1/8 mile tracks. 
Nightcrawler
Vortech'd
Link to video?
Not sure which one your asking about so here is both
CTS-V
http://youtu.be/U87GWv2qTkU
Sherm and Jflave
http://youtu.be/XLuAz5GuYWg
I like to browse the CTS-V forums and the owner of the V stated 820 rwhp got him the 9.7 pass :whoops 9.8
From the sound of the specs of your car you definitely have the foundation down to get into the nine's E85 or race gas and turn up the boost. First thing first you need up the boost I think and find your weakest link whether it be fuel blower, or transmission or if the car even has one car sounds like it was built to be stout. Triple Threats is in the hp range I that I mentioned but I believe his car weighs a lot less than yours well ours.
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Nightcrawler
Vortech'd
Does Sherm have any weight reduction? I see he lists his raceweight as 4185. If so, what weight reduction can be done to these cars without sacrificing comfort? I searched on here but didn't see many factual results.
I honestly don't know. Not many people are chasing lower E.T time in these car so you can kind of see why there isn't effort put into weight reduction which also explains why there isn't any information on the matter. With that being said one of there easier things you can do is lighter wheels racing wheels come to mind Welds or some racestars is a start. Or just try to make more power
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Triple Threat
junior member
My car weighs 3900 lbs. with driver.
