When a module goes bad?

Mr. Man

GAME OVER, YOU LOSE!
What in general goes bad when a module decides to die (you pick the module)? Bad connection, software, burned out somethingerother, other?
 
Based on your experience if you open up a module how feasible is it to diagnose where the issue is? Do you need highly specialized equipment, or can you diagnose with an ohm meter or other garage type home equipment? I know it depends, but in general.
 
First, you tell the bad module to go sit in the corner. Then you yell "Bad Module! Bad! Bad!" at it. After a while, they generally behave.
 
Based on your experience if you open up a module how feasible is it to diagnose where the issue is? Do you need highly specialized equipment, or can you diagnose with an ohm meter or other garage type home equipment? I know it depends, but in general.

With the headlight relays I have physically opened the relay to find burned contacts.

On the LCM circuit borad there is usually a brown spot cause by over heating around the headlight relay as seen in the attached photo.DSCN0031.jpg
 
On the EATC blower motor module you can tell right away for the burn circuit and it can be fixed be simply soldering a piece of wire...

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On the blend door actuator, it's not a module but nature they all fail sooner or later, it just stops working or the gears inside crack. replace the whole part is needed.
One the wiper control module, it's another module that will fail on you sooner or later, the module is attached to the motor, if the wiper cowl get's flooded or rain water the moisture penetrates the module and then you will have the wipers syndrome where only high speed work or they come off randomly even when they are in the off position, in worse cases the washer fluid squirt all by itself. for this, you can try to open the module and allow to dry and reinstall but low % success, whole motor needs replacement.
 
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