Wilwood brake installation

Mike; I've gotten your messages but am out of town, you neglected to leave me a number to call you at so that's the only reason I have not. The clips shipped with the kit are the only clips I can offer you and the only ones ever needed over the years. The smallest is .170 and if you require less than that I'm not sure why the shop is not simply using the stock one? Yes they can be ground and yes it does require a mag base. The are carnorized and should not have more than a couple of thou taken off any side. This means a .170 could, in theory, be down to .166. Not sure but I think the stock ones are in the .160-.165 range. There is no requirement to use the ones supplied they are only for your use if needed.

As for the assembly of the rear hats and rotors on a kit, I'd not be sure why any shop has a problem understanding how they bolt together. One of every kit is always sent in mock up and labeled "mock up" or "example" for this reason. "bolts not tight" making it a clear and easy example of what goes where. The rear kits are more involved yes. Not by design but by demand. If I could make it much simpler I would; blame it on the rear parking brake design here guys. Not a lot of options...

Gotta run, I'll check back later.
 
Hey Todd. Thanks for the reply. I thought my cell number would come through on your end. Sorry. Regarding the clips we ground them down as follows. : 180 to 160; 175 to 165 and170 to 162. I found a magnetic table which cooled them as they were shaved. Do you see any problem with their strength. I really would like to use them as they are much better than the stock ones. All other parts of the installation is going fine Your instructions were great and the product looks terrific
Mike
 
The process is called surface grinding. The c-clips will be fine. Stop over-analyzing and get on with the install.
 
I agree and disagree Mike...

The clips are carburized which is a surface hardening to a certain depth. The depth can vary a bit but from what I am told it runs about .003-.004" deep, per side. Beyond that the metal under it is simply 1010 steel plate from which they are cut. Doesn't mean sudden failure...but the wear factor would be much greater without this.

On the other hand I'm not sure how all this has become quite so technical. You can use the stock clips if you want, it only means a bit longer pedal travel (possibly) depending upon the float of the axle- in turn hat- in turn rotor- in turn piston knock back. Even that's not a real "bad thing" just that the os clips allow you to fine tune some. The fine tuning to you needs has me a bit puzzled however as you got two of each and if you really wanted to get to a .165 and .162 both of them could come from a .170 if you found a shop to do it. Taking .020 off one to get to such a low number I'm not understanding.

What has me more puzzled and agreeing with the over analyzing some is that there are probably 60 people out here that have had no issue with it. Meaning either you have a rear end that's odd, (that didn't sound right huh) or or someone is spending a LOT of time on this, or nobody else even bothered with it and came out fine. Dunno.
 
CWright said:
Jason Adams at Team Ford put mine in and we ran into the same problem. He spoke to Todd at TCE a few times. What Jason ended up doing is tightning up the clutch pack and it fixed the alignment perfectly. If you need further info from Jason let me know and I will get you in touch with him. He's known around our area to be real sharp when it comes to this.
Click to expand...

What Chris said. Adjust clutch pack if needed, slide in the c-clip, throw the pin in and be done. Skip the specs, really not that big of deal here.
 
Supposing you 'could' do that but I'd be leery of them being over tightened after you did it. The thread is only 1/4-28 and even with a short 1/4" box wrench you could snap it off with lube. They you'd be stuck with replacing.


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