Working on Long Tubes for MM's

I bought a completete exhaust set from elcheapo JCWitney for my 80 Z28. Steel headers, turbo muffles, all pipes, hangers and clamps, for $250.00! I owned the car another two years after install and all was still perfect condition, no warpage, no rust thru of any kind. Flat out perfect. Now I know they made a gazillion and twenty Z28's, and a handfull of Rauders, but gimme a break on these prices, they are complete B.S. Sell me a set of old skool steels and a few rolls of heat wrap for $200.00 I'd be all over it. Sure, they run hot, there noisy, not show material, but they are good enough for me.

i actually like the look of the wrap.
 
I bought a completete exhaust set from elcheapo JCWitney for my 80 Z28. Steel headers, turbo muffles, all pipes, hangers and clamps, for $250.00! I owned the car another two years after install and all was still perfect condition, no warpage, no rust thru of any kind. Flat out perfect. Now I know they made a gazillion and twenty Z28's, and a handfull of Rauders, but gimme a break on these prices, they are complete B.S. Sell me a set of old skool steels and a few rolls of heat wrap for $200.00 I'd be all over it. Sure, they run hot, there noisy, not show material, but they are good enough for me.
I miss my '81 Z-28 sometimes. Hooker headers, short length pipes, mufflers, then pipes turned out and flared right in front of my back tires. Juuuuuuuust a little on the loud side, hee hee.
 
I'd like some equal length shorties or mid length headers offered as a kit that would bolt right up to factory exhaust. e.g. Headers + downpipe + cats.
 
Dont even bother unless they are dirt cheap compared to the other companies and made from Stainless.


Tell American racing to get a Marauder in there and mount a set of Cobra/Mach 1 headers up to it (they fit) and make small changes to the jig to better fit the MM.
Id imagine this would save a butt load of money.

Well I'm planning on them making Long tubes with catted H pipe. The trick will be how to mate it mufflers being the A.R. headers are 2.5" and the Marauder exhaust isn't. So what would be "dirt cheap" for bolt in long tubes and catted "H"??

A.R. headers are backed up for weeks so I might have to make measurements and use Pauls car a guinea pig.
 
I was thinking the same thing. A bolt on reducer that's flanged on both sides. A flange for after the header and one to go where the stock H pipe connects to the rear muffler's
 
So standard would be flow tubes from the 2.5" mid pipe reduced to 2" and option would be 2.5" on both sides does that sound good? I'm also thinking "X" pipe would be more cost effective being they already have a jig for it.
 
So standard would be flow tubes from the 2.5" mid pipe reduced to 2" and option would be 2.5" on both sides does that sound good? I'm also thinking "X" pipe would be more cost effective being they already have a jig for it.

that wouldnt be bolt in at that point. the balance pipe is after the flange on the stock mm exhaust.
 
Yeah, the stock "H" is after the last flange. The stock hook up should be 2 divorced pipes with cats that end with a flange that way they can have an option to keep the stock back half. Or maybe offer some type of band clamp so they can cut the "H" part out of the system. The "X" should be optional for custom installs
 
Pics of the Mach1 headers on the car:
headers003.jpg
 
Where did you have to massage the headers for clearance ? Did you port match the header flange ?

Flange didn't need to be worked, if anything the exhaust ports could stand to be opened up some to match the gaskets if I remember right.
Really hard to remember really, been a long time now, and it's one of those things I didn't pay much attention to, I'm not at a point where I am milking power out of the car so it's really not something I payed attention to.

As for fit, the 2nd primary had to have a dent put in it to clear that stupid L shaped lower knuckle thing, and at the top the base of that upper knuckle is shaved down. Neither is a big deal really.
 
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