My new Marauder! With 18 Qrts of oil in it!?!

You have the plastic hydraulic tensioners which are a known failure point from leaking O-rings. I suggest you replace them with the ratcheting iron tensioners. Really, the best thing to do when you have the cover off is to change the entire cam timing kit, Ford Racing has it for less than $500.
 
You have the plastic hydraulic tensioners which are a known failure point from leaking O-rings. I suggest you replace them with the ratcheting iron tensioners. Really, the best thing to do when you have the cover off is to change the entire cam timing kit, Ford Racing has it for less than $500.

I bought the kit from cloyes already. i didnt know there was a racheting style and i do like that idea better. i will probably see if i can just get that style tensioner.
 
I bought the kit from cloyes already. i didnt know there was a racheting style and i do like that idea better. i will probably see if i can just get that style tensioner.

Lots of info on this site about known issues for these cars, and this is one of them. The Ford Racing kit is really nice: 4 chains, all sprockets, 4 hydraulic tensioners (iron ratcheting without O-rings) and 4 guides.

Edit - check the hydraulic lash adjusters especially on the side with the bad tensioner. A slapping chain can actually beat on the lash adjusters and cause scoring on the bottom side that sits inside the head casting. I had to change these out as well after a tensioner failure.
 
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Lots of info on this site about known issues for these cars, and this is one of them. The Ford Racing kit is really nice: 4 chains, all sprockets, 4 hydraulic tensioners (iron ratcheting without O-rings) and 4 guides.

Edit - check the hydraulic lash adjusters especially on the side with the bad tensioner. A slapping chain can actually beat on the lash adjusters and cause scoring on the bottom side that sits inside the head casting. I had to change these out as well after a tensioner failure.

I bought all new lash adjusters from Trickflow since i have the car apart already. Im doing water pump, oil pump, lash adjusters, plugs and whatever else i feel is necessary. I found the cloyes kit for 370 bucks so i think im just going to look for the racheting tensioners and sell the ones that come in the kit
 
20160223_201227_zpsia8wvjyg.jpg
I call bull on the 18 quarts. Makes for a great story don't get me wrong, but we are going way back to the whole "one time I caught a fish and it was thiiiiiiiiiiis big!!" More pictures please.

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I bought all new lash adjusters from Trickflow since i have the car apart already. Im doing water pump, oil pump, lash adjusters, plugs and whatever else i feel is necessary. I found the cloyes kit for 370 bucks so i think im just going to look for the racheting tensioners and sell the ones that come in the kit
The ratcheting iron timing tensioners you want are from a 2004 Ford Mustang 4.6L SOHC V8. Any New Edge style Mustang year with the 2v sohc motor should be using the ratcheting iron tensioners.

CLOYES 95338 - LEFT/Driver side
CLOYES 95339 - RIGHT/Passenger side

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92299
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92538
 
Someone did not use a quality oil and change it often from the looks of that.

This is mine with well over 200k miles on it, always used full synthetic oil since 45k miles on the odo. Royal Purple, AMSoil and Mobil 1, 5W20 then switched to 5W30 once I got to about 150k miles.
20140329_123053_zps8barexto.jpg
 
I call bull on the 18 quarts. Makes for a great story don't get me wrong, but we are going way back to the whole "one time I caught a fish and it was thiiiiiiiiiiis big!!" More pictures please.

Sent from my 0PM92 using Tapatalk

First of all why would i make something like that up? My life goal is to make up stories about oil to try to troll people on some forum i just joined. If the clasped tensioner and missing tensioner guides isnt enough proof that the guy tried shutting the engine up, then you can stick your head in the bucket of used oil i have sitting in the garage.
 
Someone did not use a quality oil and change it often from the looks of that.

This is mine with well over 200k miles on it, always used full synthetic oil since 45k miles on the odo. Royal Purple, AMSoil and Mobil 1, 5W20 then switched to 5W30 once I got to about 150k miles.
20140329_123053_zps8barexto.jpg

Im aware. Ive pulled apart many motors with higher miles and that were a lot cleaner. Like i said tbe car was neglected and mistreated.
 
First of all why would i make something like that up? My life goal is to make up stories about oil to try to troll people on some forum i just joined. If the clasped tensioner and missing tensioner guides isnt enough proof that the guy tried shutting the engine up, then you can stick your head in the bucket of used oil i have sitting in the garage.
Pics if it happens

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Someone did not use a quality oil and change it often from the looks of that.

This is mine with well over 200k miles on it, always used full synthetic oil since 45k miles on the odo. Royal Purple, AMSoil and Mobil 1, 5W20 then switched to 5W30 once I got to about 150k miles.
20140329_123053_zps8barexto.jpg

why did you change to 5W30 after 150K ?
 
Interesting.. I bought 2 gallons of 5w30 AMSoil for my 190k eaton swapped 03 today.. Wondering now if I should have went with 10w30.. Zack do you notice any crazy oil pressures in cold weather? With 5w20 I see 95-100 psi now on a cold day at startup.
 
The thinner oil is all for that miniscule extra fuel mileage it provides to please our wonderful government. As an example, my 2015 Mazda 6 calls for 0w20 in the United States, but 5w30 in Canada and Mexico. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out what's going on here.

I use 5w30 in the MM. Since I don't drive it in the winter anymore, I will probably switch to 10w30.
 
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