2003 MM Rear end build guidance appreciated.

what does everyone think about having the stock rear end weld mod, the axle tube to the housing all the way around on the outside. is this necessary for our more modern 8.8 housings?



If you do just make sure to tack it very well. I have heard of tubes moving from the heat just enough to kill bearings repeatedly and it goes without saying all related parts. Especially the case on back brace only weld jobs.

Best possible way is on a table in a jig till cooled.


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I don't have a welder so I will take it to a local shop this week, one hopefully with experience doing this sort of thing.
 
also are there any objections to using stock 31 spline axles out of the 2006 rear end?

Not trying to cheap out or anything but if they are good enough for my intended use I have no problem using them. they were out of a 2006 marquis with a 2.73 open diff.

just getting my parts list finalized.

also with the detroit true trac is this a c clip style diff? I have never used one or been able to examine one up close to see what method of axle retention it uses.
 
Here’s the difference between our stock 28 spline axles and the 31s I pulled out of my crown Vic along with its 31 spline LSD that I put a carbon fiber clutch pack into to swap into my MM:

606b29ab72b7740009ce53c4eaeecccb.jpg
 
also are there any objections to using stock 31 spline axles out of the 2006 rear end?



Not trying to cheap out or anything but if they are good enough for my intended use I have no problem using them. they were out of a 2006 marquis with a 2.73 open diff.



just getting my parts list finalized.



also with the detroit true trac is this a c clip style diff? I have never used one or been able to examine one up close to see what method of axle retention it uses.



Stock 31’s are just fine. Yes, C clip.



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well if your looking for the complete bearings, races, etc i have a complete overhaul kit that i ordered in for a member here(not gonna mention his name) that never came for the kit, its all OEM ford stuff and i can let you have it for 150 plus pp fees and the ride.
let me know and i can pm you the parts list with part numbers.
 
Thanks guys, The stock 31 spline axles look great, also after counting the spline on the pinion bearing its a 30 spline. after cleaning off the bearings I noticed it came with koyo and timken for the pinion section and torrington for the axle bearings. I wonder if this is normal for the 2006 8.8's. The differential housing and seals were stamped ford for that matter. I didnt bother pulling the pinion bearing off the pinion to see what it was but for anyone interested.

with the housing fully disassembled I am trying to get a way to weld the tubes to the center section. Do I learn how to weld and buy a welder "Ive wanted to learn and get one for years anyway" or continue to search out someone to do the job.

Koyo M802011-N

Timken M88048 097
Timken M88010 097


Torrington DB-67309

Thanks Hotrod I have not decided on bearings yet, but that sounds like a good idea.
PM it over, you can email me also @ evanpaulsmith21@gmail.com
 
diff and gear set ordered.

is there a major difference between the doorman and metco lower control arm and watts link parts?

is the improvement over stock just due to stiffness?

is there a complete poly bushing kit for our cars? I have looked but been unable to find any.
 
Huge difference, dorman vs metco. Dorman stamped steel rubber bushings, metco billet aluminum, urethane bushings, greasable and far stiffer ,compliments car feel and handling
 
Nobody on here since the start of this site has been over 400 rwhp in a na 4.6 marauder. Might want to research further. Use Google and search using g mercurymarauder.net added into your subject.

Current record holder is Fordnut at 378 rwhp NA. I have a bet with four members I can beat it. With my car at MO's Speed Shop, all things are possible with $$$$$$ and their talent. Maybe dump the TrickFlow and go Jesel.
 
Current record holder is Fordnut at 378 rwhp NA. I have a bet with four members I can beat it. With my car at MO's Speed Shop, all things are possible with $$$$$$ and their talent. Maybe dump the TrickFlow and go Jesel.

Let’s say you get 400rwhp NA. I’m curious, exactly how long, how much time, energy and money has been spent to get to 400? Didn’t you start that in 09? Just supercharge the damn thing and be done with it. You’ll be so much happier. You can buy a freaking Honda that’ll beat that at 400rwhp now.
 
Current record holder is Fordnut at 378 rwhp NA. I have a bet with four members I can beat it. With my car at MO's Speed Shop, all things are possible with $$$$$$ and their talent. Maybe dump the TrickFlow and go Jesel.
Why do you constantly say this? While FordNuts numbers a impressive, his is not the N/A rwhp leader. You want the record you need to be North of 400rwhp. Hope you can do it.
 
If your going jesel you better have deep pockets. I bet they have titanium valve keepers dipped in the roman holy waters doused with the popes prayers
 
superchargers are hard on the engine, perticularly the bearings.

I dont hate them, but they are expensive for an add on, for a perticular budget high or low I would rather have a high end N/A engine than a mediocre blower setup.

and personally do not think superchargers sound good. the only one I would pay money for would be a centrifugal type.

If I decide to go with forced induction I will go with a twin turbo setup.

I would like a hot 5.4 but I am considering a teksid 4.6 tt build.

Also while I prefer manual transmissions I have had both auto and manual sports cars.

they can both be done up well and If the car was already a manual I would give more consideration to a supercharger but given the fact I am just going to get the strongest auto Guts I can stuff in a 4r70w, Not sure if I should do the 4r75w since im going with a different motor all together why not. I still have to look at what is involved.

that being said the shop that is welding the rear end for me is in greenfield indiana, they are called Rods in Progress and they do fantastic fabrication work, they want to do the manual swap for me go figure. so Atleast if I go that route I have a shop I feel good about. But the more I think about it the main use of the car is bad ass cruising with maybe a road coarse or two a year for *****.

But auto's by nature work well with turbo setups, given the fact I would go dual 57's or 63's something like that its less of a factor because lag will be at a minimum. I have just started looking at cam profiles. I definitly want some low end grunt with some lope and a balanced powerband.

It will take me a couple weeks of research do nail down what compression ratio, turbo size, cam and stroke prof I think is in order for really maximizing the the overall charachteristics of this engine, I have always been more of an auto x, road coarse guy than drag so a lot of information I find is from drag guys half of which is useless toward my plans.

My favorite cams were my 263's in the 2.4 4g64t block with a 20g.

I had and tuned my own DSM link on my old cars. I am not opposed with going to a stand alone ecu.

I have been focused on the rear end, suspension and have not even looked at what a lot of ford guys do for piggy backs, or ecu mods yet. but

its on the radar :)
 
Here is some progress so far,

They did 3 passes and cleared out the channel in between the axle tube and housing. They did a better job than I could of that is for sure. It will be into sandblast and powder this afternoon.

here is the true track diff.

waiting on gears and misc in the mail.
 

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Did your welder have a glass eye or an eye patch? :D




Lol. As long as it's solid, no one will ever see it where its going anyway.

:beer:
 
Wow. He is actually a legit welder? Look at the inconsistency, poor to no penetration, and porosity.


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