id like to be in the mid 14's

whitey said:
im not really sure what would put me there, but heres what i was thinking:
already have a sct xcal2, currently running a zack tune, and the j-mod has been done. if i have around $1000 to work with, which probably isn't enough, but i'll try....musclemerc's cold air intake ~$420, musclemercs oil catch can $150, steeda underdrive pulleys $200. these are all parts i know i could install myself, i still have the 3.55 gears, and was thinking of 4.10's(which i can't install myself)....but i drive around 90 miles a day, and im not sure how much those gears would affect my mpg. any input would be great, thanks guys.--whitey
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If you want mid 14's all you need is a new torque converter (3200 stall) cost about $750 and another $250.00 to install. That's all you need to hit 14.5's with a tune.

Reinhart has a BETTER oil catch can for about $40.00! Don't waste your money on the MM catch can. I had one and took it off as it wasn't working. (oil in the intake)

Also I think musclemerc's design of the CAI is poor, while the air might be "cold" the cfm is very poor. Uses a stock filter with less surface area than factory (frame occupies filter outer filter area) Engine is an air pump, you want a cone with greater surface area -- JLT or K&N, Reinhart one has a nice heat shield and cone filter. More CFM = more faster..
 
PonyUP said:
I got 4.10's, very little effect on mileage, great effect at the track. I just ran 14.3 with very crappy reaction times, if I hit a good tree I'd be in the 13s. I got a tune, CAI, LT headers and 4.10's


Pony seal of Approval
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reaction time does nothing for e.t.
 
whitey said:
if i get a cai, it will be musclemerc's, i trust him and his testing and i've talked to him about this, no offense, i appreciate the advice!

anybody know of a reputeable mechanic in md that installs 4.10's for lets say ~$300......im not sure if $300 is average..or if im just cheap..
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$300 is what a good friend would charge. You'll also need a install kit and a updated tune for the new ratio so you may wanna add a couple of hundred to that budget you set.

01LXHPP said:
While I'm sure his CAI works great, it looks SO home made, and 400 dollars is absolutely retarded for a home made CAI. If your really worried about IAT's, delete the silencer and put a K&N drop in filter in your stock airbox and leave it at that.

I never really liked UDP's, I've heard issues with them like charging problems for one.


4.10's are awesome, definitely go with them. These cars were supposed to come from the factory with 4.10's anyways
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Im not a fan of the MuscleMerc CAI. I agree it looks homemade. I don't care how it performs or flows, it just looks like it don't belong under the hood, but in my truck with a speaker inside of it.
Bump the idle in the tune and no more charging issues. Steve Babcock said himself that 4.10's were the gear of choice for these cars. MPG regulations thought otherwise.

bigmerc281 said:
Since were on the subject. I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what would a k&n cai 410'S and a tune do on the 1/4 mile
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You'll knock off .5 -.7 tenths off your E.T with that combo. The tune makes a world of difference, the gears and the CAI are worth about 3 tenths combined.

SID210SA said:
I'll tell you this much....all I added was the JLT and a Lidio tune and I ran 14.6 in the 1/4...and my reaction time are not all that, almost 1/2 a second.
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Your reaction time could be 5 minutes, the timer don't start until you break the beam.
 
babbage said:
Also I think musclemerc's design of the CAI is poor, while the air might be "cold" the cfm is very poor. Uses a stock filter with less surface area than factory (frame occupies filter outer filter area) Engine is an air pump, you want a cone with greater surface area -- JLT or K&N, Reinhart one has a nice heat shield and cone filter. More CFM = more faster..
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as far as i know, a CAI, is supposed to flow cold air, not warm air thats been sittin' in the engine bay. his CAI is exactly what a CAI is. i could careless about a chrome intake tube, im not DOOM, and i'll never be able to compete with him and his engine:beer:, jlt has a 4" tube....with the cone's discharge at 3"....a reducing coupling attaching the 2....i dont see how that 'works', fantastic if it does! reinhart has a better intake than jlt(in my opinion), but i personally like the looks of musclemercs intake, to each is own, i like proven results.
 
The only proof he's got is a few deg colder iat at idle. What good is that to pull a tad bit more timing. What good is that nothing really. Like I said if your really bored. So here's the result 400 for a few deg colder at idle, yea cause I like to gun my car in traffic
 
whitey said:
i like proven results.
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Dyno your car

Buy his homemade 400 dollar intake

Redyno car

If you pick up anything thats substantial over the average gains from a K&N or JLT, I'll soak my JLT in gasoline, throw a match at it, and go buy a MM intake.
 
I paid $300 for my gear install at a local speed shop Deans Performance 15 min from my house.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!
 
whitey said:
as far as i know, a CAI, is supposed to flow cold air, not warm air thats been sittin' in the engine bay. his CAI is exactly what a CAI is. i could careless about a chrome intake tube, im not DOOM, and i'll never be able to compete with him and his engine:beer:, jlt has a 4" tube....with the cone's discharge at 3"....a reducing coupling attaching the 2....i dont see how that 'works', fantastic if it does! reinhart has a better intake than jlt(in my opinion), but i personally like the looks of musclemercs intake, to each is own, i like proven results.
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No flowbench data, No drag data, No dyno data. But Yeah it's "proven"

Anyone can clearly see the air comes into a big box with hard edges and corners, then has to make its way from a huge square lunchbox into a small round tube after the air bounces off the walls a couple of times loosing momentum, then it gets out of the tube and makes another non-smooth awkward turn, then finally into your body. The K&N and JLT tubes have totally smooth transitions. You will have 2 "roadblocks" Any time you have to change direction you loose speed and momentum. I wonder why the factory airbox has a nice smooth arced top?

Put that sucker on and drag it, I'll bet you there is zero gain. I thought you said you wanted to go faster? :confused:
 
I did 14.35 with a JLT intake, DR tune, plugs, coil connectors, flow master mufflers, stock exhaust besides the res-delete tips and I think I had 235/50-18 on the rears.

Removed 2nd set of cats and went to a 255/55-18 rear and went 14.25.

If you are working with a budget go with the JLT, UD pulleys and 4.10 gears.
 
babbage said:
No flowbench data, No drag data, No dyno data. But Yeah it's "proven"

Anyone can clearly see the air comes into a big box with hard edges and corners, then has to make its way from a huge square lunchbox into a small round tube after the air bounces off the walls a couple of times loosing momentum, then it gets out of the tube and makes another non-smooth awkward turn, then finally into your body. The K&N and JLT tubes have totally smooth transitions. You will have 2 "roadblocks" Any time you have to change direction you loose speed and momentum. I wonder why the factory airbox has a nice smooth arced top?

Put that sucker on and drag it, I'll bet you there is zero gain. I thought you said you wanted to go faster? :confused:
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You bring up some valid arguments. I would kill to see a dyno with both ways. After all the lunchbox pulls in air from behind the headlight versus pulling in air from the engine area.

Therefore you have denser air which should make you go faster.
 
He also cut out the core support in front of his air box if I got it right. Is that what you want to do to your car?
 
jstevens said:
You bring up some valid arguments. I would kill to see a dyno with both ways. After all the lunchbox pulls in air from behind the headlight versus pulling in air from the engine area.

Therefore you have denser air which should make you go faster.
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This is only at 5mph or under. Once you get going all the air comes up from underneath and you get the same air temp as from the headlight. Air intake temp are only a few deg colder at idle once you get to around 5mph or over it's all the same. Jlt and k&n have heat shelds
 
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Core support? I did not know that was a core support. Good point. I don't like chopping anything up.

I like the over 5mph thing. Wasn't sure if that was real, but it does make sense. I feel better now with my K & N.
 
Blackened300a said:
Your reaction time could be 5 minutes, the timer don't start until you break the beam.
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Thanks for that.....wasnt thinking when I typed it....but thanks....

irrigardless....I still ran a 14.6 with just the Lidio tune and JLT.....no head light out....stock tires stock everything else....trunck with full size spare, speaker box with 2 12" subs....and if I could loose about 50 lbs myself....lol:beer:

I guess if I took everything out of the trunk....put in some 4.10's I might get low low 14's....that would be cool.
 
SID210SA said:
Thanks for that.....wasnt thinking when I typed it....but thanks....

irrigardless....I still ran a 14.6 with just the Lidio tune and JLT.....no head light out....stock tires stock everything else....trunck with full size spare, speaker box with 2 12" subs....and if I could loose about 50 lbs myself....lol:beer:

I guess if I took everything out of the trunk....put in some 4.10's I might get low low 14's....that would be cool.
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Im questioning taking the headlight out. I did back to back runs with it in and with it out at several track meets and I saw zero difference.

The rule of thumb is that every 100lbs less is a tenth faster, every 1000lbs lighter is a second faster.
 
whitey said:
im not really sure what would put me there, but heres what i was thinking:
already have a sct xcal2, currently running a zack tune, and the j-mod has been done. if i have around $1000 to work with, which probably isn't enough, but i'll try....musclemerc's cold air intake ~$420, musclemercs oil catch can $150, steeda underdrive pulleys $200. these are all parts i know i could install myself, i still have the 3.55 gears, and was thinking of 4.10's(which i can't install myself)....but i drive around 90 miles a day, and im not sure how much those gears would affect my mpg. any input would be great, thanks guys.--whitey
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Gears, tune, JLT, $1k, your times will be where you want them, if you want to multiply that by say.... 20, I can tell you how to make it real fast. :D :burnout:
 
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