SergntMac
Shelby GT X2--Back In Black
Oopps...Forgot to add the link to my gallery.
http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/392
Thanks for all the kind words, gentlemen. I'll try and answer as many questions as I can, hope I don't leave anyone out.
http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/392
Thanks for all the kind words, gentlemen. I'll try and answer as many questions as I can, hope I don't leave anyone out.
Ford Racing, 42# injectors. 6 rib system, stock water pump. It's a Walbro 255 in the tank, with Reinhart's external filter and -8 braided lines. Getting those 45 degree bends out the fuel line was critical to maintaining decent pressure. I think the lowest FP was 40# @ 6400 RPM.maraudernkc said:What Injectors are you running? What fuel Pump system are you running? Are you running a 6 rib or 8 rib pulley? On our Dyno testing we saw the 39LB (03 Cobra Injectors) running out of fuel at around 475RWHP.
I know you know this sound, Phil, and I tend to have some fun with it. When someone who thinks they know something about race engines asks me about my "piston slap", I just tell them the noise is my from my solid lifters and roller rockers...Hehehe. I stuck with the OEM pump and gears, but I did my homework too. For moderate builds like mine, billet gears are a waste of money, and the Ford Racing HO pump is good stuff, but it will suck your OEM capacity pan dry in one pass. I'm betting the OEM pump and gears will be fine, but only time will tell. Some I spoke to said the whole billet gears thingy was more a sales pitch than not. Also a story about Sean Hyland's experience being traced back to bad crank snouts, not weak gears. What ever, but I prefer my advice to come from real world experience, and there are many more OEM gear sets on the 1320 track, than not.MAD-3R said:How I know the tick. It does decrease a bit with breakin. not much, but some. Did you go with the Billit Oil pump gears?
This was a whole engine build, Mark, top to bottom. Mild competition 3 angle valve grind, retaining stock valves, springs and cams.MarauderMark said:Is this just the short block ? If you did the heads what did you do ?
Vortech says their average seal life is 40 to 50K, depending on owner abuse, and I think it's only logical to agree. The S and T trim blower mainshafts are capable of 50,000 RPM, add to that exposure to the elements and some "variations" in the install, and I cannot expect any blower seal to live that long. Just one of the conditions of ownership, I suppose. I do feel that Vortech's positive lubricated system which takes cooler and fresh oil from the engine has merits that a sealed system does not, but to each his own. As for the customer service with Vortech, it was a bit dry at first. But, after chewing the fat with John Snee, a very good friend of Kenny Brown and Dennis Reinhart. Things went smoothly when John recalled working on the 1x project back in '02. I have a 3 year limited warranty on the T tirm upgrade.merc said:One of the topics of discussion around my neck of the woods is centrifical superchargers leaking fluids. I have seen 3 prochargers returned for seal problems. I don't have much data about the overall reliability of seals. Word of mouth and group forums, like this one, becomes the first source of education. SergntMac, could you elaborate about the T-Trim upgrade and any additional technical information that you obtained from Votech. What is the warranty from the manufacture and how was their customer service. Dan