New Kook's Installation Steps Confirmation

  • Thread starter Thread starter darebren
  • Start date Start date
D

darebren

Guest
Gang,
Thanks to Cyclone03, TooManyFords, and BillyGman, :bows: I've compiled this list below for steps to install the Kook's headers. This is the new kit, maybe it is the same as you all had last year and early this year.. or maybe not?? can any of you "experienced" folks who have done this please review the list below, and offer any tips or tweaks that I need to know.

Tools: you need 1/4" drive sockets and universals, and long extensions too. you MUST HAVE a short 13mm wrench.

Please help? My worries… do the manifold studs come out of the block easily? Do I really have to cut the studs as shown below? What do I do with the bolts that came in the Kook’s Kit? Is there any missing piece of tube as Logan said to get to the correct angle for the cats from the collectors? Should I get different collector gaskets?

Install Steps:
1. get the car up as high as you can
2. remove the battery
3. remove wheels and fender well plastic barrier
4. loosen the O2 sensors before you remove the cat tubes.
5. leave the starter connected to all of the wires, and simply remove the three mounting bolts and rotate the starter so that the solenoid is in a 12:00 position
6. remove the 3 bolts holding the a/c compressure
7. loosen the EGR tube
8. remove the bolt holding the steering shaft,the 13mm one
9. remove the 2 bolts holding the dip stick in place.
10. Now install stuff. - Before install the headers CLEAN ALL THE METAL OUT OF THE TUBES, clean the inlet side of you cat pipes too,don't try to rinse out the cats though, just invert the pipe and brush the junk out
11. use the stock studs.
12. remove all the top row studs on the right side.
13. cut the first 5 threads off the #4 top stud.
14. both headers can be installed without lifting the engine.
15. use the stock gaskets
16. fit headers in place and install all nuts.finger tight.
17. reinstall starter,rotate the small wire so it raps around the solenoid so it will not rub the header
18. prepare for pure hell as you try to tighten all the nuts on the right side.
19. reinstall the a/c compressure.
20. left side fit header in place with a few loose nuts.
21. connect the lower end of the EGR tube not tight yet.
22. install all the nuts on the headers.
23. as you tighten all nuts you want to run them all down about 1/2 way then 3/4 then tighten, because the clearence is such that you can't turn the wrenchs if you tighten them all up one at a time.
24. If you have to drive the car to the muffler shop to have the tail pipes welded to the mufflers you need 2 21/4" muffler clamps
25. did NOT have to remove, or loosen either one of the motor mounts, or jack-up the motor.
26. "grinding" the steering shaft bolt – cut 4 threads off the bolt,no problem they stick out of the u joint,and grind the head of the bolt down to about 3/16" thick because it would BIND on the header.


looking for comments, I will print this all out for my project this weekend. I hope the weather is nice on Monday, cause I have a feeling I'll be driving my motorcycle to work! :lol:
 
Sweet!- I'm afraid I took the two step approach:
1) Call Meadlin's Car Care (they've installed Kook's on a MM before)
2) Wait for car.

Good Luck with the install- I wish I had the time and talent.. :beer:
 
I've never done this project, so this is just a shot in the dark.
1. I see the above list talks about removing a lot of stuff, but nothing about removing the stock manifold. It's common sense that you have to do that, but at what point in the process?
2. You said that you need 1/4" drive sockets. Isn't that kind of puny for taking off stuff like manifold mounting nuts?
3. What about torque? Is there a torque specification for the mounting nuts when you put it all back together? I'm also interested in this since I'm about to put on a Reinhart exhaust and I assume that the torque spec (if there is one) will be the same for any exhaust, but I could be wrong.

OK, just my .02.
 
Is it possible for a DIY install without a trip to the muffler shop? Is there a 'kit' form that has everything needed? I have a friend interested in these headers, but he wants to do it himself, without a muffler shop. He does have lift access and all the normal tools, just no way to fab 'hook up' pipes to the OEM cat back.

Did that make any sense? :banana:

Thanks,
Randy
 
I'm one of those who has installed the Kooks system. You can do the complete installation yourself. The headers are tough, but I think they're worth the performance gain that you obtain in both low-end, and high-end power. I didn't use the old manifold studs. Instead i used the stage 8 locking header bolts, but let me tell you, it took me 10 hours just to get all of the clips for the locking bolts on!!!!! And I was using a lift!!!

Again, I think it was worth it, since they will never come loose and cause a header leak, but it takes a lot of time and patience!!!! I believe that you won't be able to use all of the studs unless atleast one or two of them are cut down as was mentioned.

Other than the header bolts, the hardest part was getting that dipstick tube out, and back in again. I suggest you use a little wheel bearing grease to get it to slide in between the motor mount, the header flange, and the block. You really have to force it, and the tricky part is doing that w/as little force as possible so that you don't break it since it's a dealer only item. You won't find it at your local parts store. I didn't break it, but someone else did. I think it was "TooManyFords". I can see that it can easily happen though. The thing is a hassle, but it's do-able.

I didn't have to reposition any wiring on the starter at all, but I did get some starter heat shielding wrap from summit racing(the kind w/the velcro) and cut it to size to wrap up the starter in.

With the Kooks complete kit(including the 18" Magnaflow mufflers) the only welding that will have to be done is to attach the passenger side muffler to the tailpipe, and you can simply drive the car to a muffler shop for that after you're done w/the job.

I had the headers ceramic coated, but that was before Kooks changed them to stainless steel. So you don't have to get them ceramic coated now, but I would anyway if I were you. I believe that you would have to send them out somewhere yourself after receiving them from Kooks if you want the ceramics done. There are a lot of places that do that, and the turn around time as only a week as far as I know.

Oh, BTW, Logan got the Kooks system before it was a completely bolt-on package, so now there is no fabrication needed. It can and should be used as is.

I hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Ross said:
Billy, what about torque specs?
Click to expand...

Ross, when it comes to the header bolts, (or nutsif you choose the studs), you can forget about torque specs, because you won't be able to get to atleast 3 or 4 of them on each side w/a socket. Some of them you have to use a wrench. Others you can use a 1/4" drive socket w/a universal joint and 1/4" drive 12" long extension, but to get a torque reading on all of that, well, you might as well not even bother since it won't be very accurate.

Your main goal w/this job would be simply getting to all of the bolts to get them tightened let alone a torque spec. Like I said before, it's challenging, but it CAN be done. I did it, and so have others. Just don't expect to get it all done in one day.
 
Can someone post a picture of step 26? I am unclear about which bolt needs to have four threads removed. I have grinding when making a left turn.
 
it's also a good idea right, to thread on a nut before you do any grinding on threads to shorten bolts or studs..then take the nut off to remove any burrs...
 
Just let me mention here that I never gound the bolt on the steering linkage. And it never, nor does it hit the header. So I guess it simply depends on the car. Therefore you really shouldn't grind the bolt unless you see that it does hit. It's the only bolt visible in the steering linkage when you open the hood.

And BTW, Ross, I didn't realize that you wanted to know about the torque spec because you will be installing the Reinhart exhaust. I just looked at your first post in this thread and saw that you had mentioned that. That might be a different story. Since the Reinhart exhaust includes re-worked exhaust manifolds rather than headers, you might be able to get at all the manifold bolts w/a torque wrench.

The torque spec for exhaust manifold bolts for almost every V8 engine is 25-30 FT/LBS. So I would torque them to 25 FT/LBS if I were you. I wouldn't go anymore than that since They're metric bolts that are a bit smaller than the usual 3/8-16 bolts that are on many other American V8 exhaust manifolds. If I get an exact torque spec, I'll let you know, but I'm sure 25 FT/LBS would be fine.
 
Thanks, Billy. I'd hate to spend money on an exhaust and either have leaks because it's too loose or maybe crack the manifold because it was torqued too tight. On my old '76 Monte Carlo, after it got about 150K on it, it would crack the driver's side manifold every 6 months or so! Maybe I should have bought a torque wrench back then!
 
Ross said:
Thanks, Billy. I'd hate to spend money on an exhaust and either have leaks....
Click to expand...
Then for goodness sakes...don't buy any "super-duper, high-performance, you gotta buy these from me" gaskets from Marty. :mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:
 
darebren said:
Gang,
Thanks to Cyclone03, TooManyFords, and BillyGman, :bows: I've compiled this list below for steps to install the Kook's headers. This is the new kit, maybe it is the same as you all had last year and early this year.. or maybe not?? can any of you "experienced" folks who have done this please review the list below, and offer any tips or tweaks that I need to know.

Tools: you need 1/4" drive sockets and universals, and long extensions too. you MUST HAVE a short 13mm wrench.

Please help? My worries… do the manifold studs come out of the block easily? Do I really have to cut the studs as shown below? What do I do with the bolts that came in the Kook’s Kit? Is there any missing piece of tube as Logan said to get to the correct angle for the cats from the collectors? Should I get different collector gaskets?

Install Steps:
1. get the car up as high as you can
2. remove the battery
3. remove wheels and fender well plastic barrier
4. loosen the O2 sensors before you remove the cat tubes.
5. leave the starter connected to all of the wires, and simply remove the three mounting bolts and rotate the starter so that the solenoid is in a 12:00 position
6. remove the 3 bolts holding the a/c compressure
7. loosen the EGR tube
8. remove the bolt holding the steering shaft,the 13mm one
9. remove the 2 bolts holding the dip stick in place.
10. Now install stuff. - Before install the headers CLEAN ALL THE METAL OUT OF THE TUBES, clean the inlet side of you cat pipes too,don't try to rinse out the cats though, just invert the pipe and brush the junk out
11. use the stock studs.
12. remove all the top row studs on the right side.
13. cut the first 5 threads off the #4 top stud.
14. both headers can be installed without lifting the engine.
15. use the stock gaskets
16. fit headers in place and install all nuts.finger tight.
17. reinstall starter,rotate the small wire so it raps around the solenoid so it will not rub the header
18. prepare for pure hell as you try to tighten all the nuts on the right side.
19. reinstall the a/c compressure.
20. left side fit header in place with a few loose nuts.
21. connect the lower end of the EGR tube not tight yet.
22. install all the nuts on the headers.
23. as you tighten all nuts you want to run them all down about 1/2 way then 3/4 then tighten, because the clearence is such that you can't turn the wrenchs if you tighten them all up one at a time.
24. If you have to drive the car to the muffler shop to have the tail pipes welded to the mufflers you need 2 21/4" muffler clamps
25. did NOT have to remove, or loosen either one of the motor mounts, or jack-up the motor.
26. "grinding" the steering shaft bolt – cut 4 threads off the bolt,no problem they stick out of the u joint,and grind the head of the bolt down to about 3/16" thick because it would BIND on the header.


looking for comments, I will print this all out for my project this weekend. I hope the weather is nice on Monday, cause I have a feeling I'll be driving my motorcycle to work! :lol:
Click to expand...


2-No
3-No
5-No, leave it completely alone
12- definitely no, dont remove any
14- loosen both motor mounts and raise engine, it is easy to do and will make install easier
24- Use the band clamps provided
25- I removed the bolts holding the drivers side Motor mount to the block, makes the dipstick go in a lot easier.
26-No
 
I agree

with Zack about the battery not having to be removed, because I didn't remove it. And I dunno about the motor mount loosening to make it easier for the dipstick installation. He might be correct on that. I'm gonna take his word for it since Zack does do a alot of his own wrench turning also to my knowledge.

However, when it comes to the starter, I differ w/him on that. I didn't have to mess w/either one of the motor mounts, and I did have to do what you said to do w/the starter. Like you said, none of the electrical connections going to it have to be disconnected, but it needs to be rotated so that the starter solenoid is in the 12:00 position in order to squeeze the passenger side header past it. If you do that with the starter, you won't have to loosen the passenger side motor mount. I'd rather do that than mess with the motor mount and have to raise the engine.

Perhaps Zack rather deal with the motoe mounts on both sides. I dunno. But if so, then I guess it's a matter of preference. ;)

But just to be clear on this, my above statements apply ONLY to the installation of the Kooks headers(which are mid length/Long tube headers) on the Marauder, and not shorty headers, nor any type of exhaust manifolds.I didn't think that Zack had the Kooks headers, but maybe I was mistaking about that.
 
Last edited:
I weighed twisting the starter and then inventing a tool to retighten the bolts as compared to removing one motor mount nut on each side and jacking the motor up a few inches. Since I didnt do it the way you did, I dont know which is easiest.
Anyone who puts them on should can the collector gaskets immediately in favor of better ones.
 
2003 MIB said:
Sweet!- I'm afraid I took the two step approach:
1) Call Meadlin's Car Care (they've installed Kook's on a MM before)
2) Wait for car.

Good Luck with the install- I wish I had the time and talent.. :beer:
Click to expand...
Hey Dan! another late night at the shop also know as Performance Research to a few. Got all the stock stuff down and starter loose and starting to go back in tonight. I have developed a few tricks of my own for these header installs. You have to when you do them regularly. We learned a lot on Logan's G-ride that is because he is the first local guy with everything:P . The bottom of the car is very clean with exception to ATF drops which I assume was do to a recent service since it looks dry elsewhere. The car has a lot of bottom end rattle on cold startup is this a normal Marauder trait? You may want to play with oils or filters to see if it redueces startup knock. Anyway, I am going to bed then another long hard day tomorrow. The Lighting transmission I was diagnosing ahead of you ended up needing a rebuild so I am balancing both this week along with a header install on another Lightning Friday:help: . Later, Terry.
 
Zack said:
I weighed twisting the starter and then inventing a tool to retighten the bolts as compared to removing one motor mount nut on each side and jacking the motor up a few inches. Since I didnt do it the way you did, I dont know which is easiest.
Anyone who puts them on should can the collector gaskets immediately in favor of better ones.
Click to expand...

Zack, I didn't find it all that bad to get at the starter nuts to re-tighten them after the header was in place w/only the bottom 4 bolts in, and only in loosely at that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about the following, but if I remember right, I think that bolt holes on the header flanges of the kooks headers are all slots for the four bottom ones. Therefore the 4 bottom bolts can be started in the cylinder head before fishing the header up in there, and then the header can be rested on those four bolts while you are returning the starter to it's original position, and retightening the starter bolts.

But I understand what you mean Zack. You are correct. The bottom line is, it's a matter of preference, and all about what the individual views as being a more comfortable choice. Again, let me repeat what I've previously stated, that what Zack has said about avoiding the hassle w/the dip stick tube removal and replacement by loosening the driver's side motor mount is a very interesting observation on his part. I hadn't even thought about that when I was performing the Kooks header installation.
 
Last edited:
Zack, how bout driving out to Cincinnati from homewood this weekend for a few hundred bucks and helping me with the install!?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top