Oil pressure

The headlights are a direct fit. Kind of a pain to install, though. First, the dome-like covers have to come off. They rotate to release from the tabs, then just pop off. One of mine didn't want to rotate all the way so I had to use a tiny screwdriver to convince it with some gentle prying. It's hard to get your hands in there, especially if you're a big guy. I thought about pulling the battery and airbox but it wasn't necessary. Once the covers are off, unplug the wires (again some gentle use of a small screwdriver can be helpful, just don't break off the tabs) and twist the retaining rings off. The tricky part is to get the old bulbs out and the new ones back in there without touching the glass (quartz). Just reverse the disassembly process and they'll be ready to go.

Just a thought... sometimes you can get the parts guys at AutoZone (probably others) to do small jobs like wiper blades, batteries, bulbs (free.) I suppose Pep Boys would charge you since they have an actual service dept.
 
Originally posted by WolfeBros
.....without running the tubing like we used to do. Autometer makes such a gauge and sending unit.


Gentleman;

I have tracked this post and other's similiar, maybe I did not see it.
...actually I am tired of searching...?:rolleyes:

What is the part # for the autoguage (oil) replacement? I have a summit book in front of me, they carry lots...

Cruz
 
Thanks, I just found the "Confirmation autometer...." post with instructions. I need a flippen road map to find my way around here!

Cruztaker
 
How come everyone seems to be installing autometer oil pressure gauge # 4327 which is an electric sender gauge instead of autometer oil pressure gauge # 4321 which is a mechanical gauge. Just curious
 
badger:

A mechanical gauge requires oil to be plumbed into it, usually through a tiny nylon hose (1/8" or something?). If that hose ever breaks, you then pump potentially scalding oil into your car, or on yourself. The only safe place to mount a mechanical oil pressure gauge is outside the passenger cabin, most commonly on a bracket inside the engine compartment.
 
Not to mention the electric gauge connects to the standard wiring harness (with different connectors) and requires no drilling, rewiring, etc.
 
RF Overlord said:
badger:

A mechanical gauge requires oil to be plumbed into it, usually through a tiny nylon hose (1/8" or something?). If that hose ever breaks, you then pump potentially scalding oil into your car, or on yourself. The only safe place to mount a mechanical oil pressure gauge is outside the passenger cabin, most commonly on a bracket inside the engine compartment.
Click to expand...

Yes.I understand about the oil line entering the cabin.
I’ve been doing it that way for years and have never had a problem.:)


I just thought I overlooked something or it had something to do with the wiring harness or ecu,ecm....


Today you can upgrade the line to either Braided Stainless Steel
with fittings or even Kevlar Hose. (sure I’ve heard horror stories but if you install it right there should be no problem)
 
Just a thought... If you used one of these mechanical gauges, you could connect the sending unit with a "T", using the original wiring for an idiot light. A bright red light coming on would possibly get your attention quicker than a gauge needle dropping.
 
Has anyone figured out if this guage is is connected to the ECU in some fashion? I am ready to do it, but the ford tech at the dealership had to go and say something to get me wondering again....
 
I think it's been determined by others that unplugging/replacing the gauge has no effect what-so-ever on the ECU. A Check Engine would not come on for low oil pressure, nor would it send a code. Engine codes are more emmissions related than actually what's wrong with the car...
 
Correct, the gauge & sending unit is basically stand-alone in function and is not connected to the PCM (isn't that what the computer is now referred to?) in any way. I wonder... could you connect the aftermarket gauge & sending unit with a "T" at the sending units and leave the OEM sending unit installed. Then run a wire from the OEM sending unit to an engine "kill" signal somewhere in the wiring to the PCM? Just a thought.
 
Guys just got my Auto Meters gauges for the oil and volts, can someone give me a hint on installing sending unit on engine, where?
 
At startup 75 psi, after warm-up idle 22-24 psi, at speed 50, and pedal to the medal 80 to 85 psi depending on last oil change.
 
Nicklee the sending unit screws into the oil filter adapter.
It is in the left front of the engine and is just in front of the oil filter. The OEM sender and wiring harness has a plug. The autometer sender takes just a wire. You can use the exsisting wiring but you have to cut the connector off or make an adapter. I am hesitant to tell you to do this yourself if you have not done this type of work before. It is not hard to do but you are making changes to a new car under warranty. Keep that in mind. Use teflon tape on the sender.
 
When I make the change to the oil gage. I fully intend to send the fake back to who ever is in charge of the MM program, and politly explain to them that they obviously don't understand thier customers. $35K for a " MUSCLE CAR" with an idiot gage ?.

I think if enough people sent the old ones in to the same person at LM they might get the message.
 
Guys, factory clearly states the following regarding oil pressure switch operation "Closes with normal oil pressure, causing a gauge reading of Normal. With low oil pressure, switch opens and causes a low gauge reading.

See page 62-1 (Instrument Cluster- Performance) in wiring diagram manual.

Looks like they are in the clear if anything happens and all systems were working properly but driver failed to noticed something was going wrong...

Any comments on this?

Donald
 
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