Pulling engine and transmission this weekend

Hey Lifespeed,

When is the next fun-day planned for transmission and motor extraction?

I've got the air chisel, but the bits haven't arrived yet. Can't get them locally, every mfg uses a %@#$ different bit! Going to try a different pry bar approach today, but I'm not optimistic.
 
Other members have shared, using just wheel stands, you can pull the engine without removing the crossmember or transmission. Whatcha think?

You know what an ace wrench buster I am. 510paesan is okay. :)
 
This is why I feel okay with doing what I do well do I can afford to pay others to do what they do well.

Good luck, do not break a leg!!
 
Don't you have a junkyard that can provide you another crossmember? You probably paid equal price for a air chisel and bits. That much struggle and over a week delay more than justifies sawzalling it half and whacking it the hell out of the way. No way I'd let a piece of metal rule my day!




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The junkyard thing is an option. But that still means removing it ourselves. No "pick n pull" will do the "pulling" here in the Bay Area. That's left up to the person that wants said part.
Regardless I don't think it will be necessary.


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The 1/2" air chisel bit arrived today, took the crossmember and transmission out tonight. Thanks Comin' in Hot.

I have to say the long pry bar is not great advice, all it does is mutilate a crossmember you probably want to re-use.
 
Other members have shared, using just wheel stands, you can pull the engine without removing the crossmember or transmission. Whatcha think?

You know what an ace wrench buster I am. 510paesan is okay. :)

Yeah, he's pretty good. But what would we do without the moral support and all your people on the internet?
 
Make sure you grind the crossmember down before re-installing....so this problem won't happen again.
Do not overtighten the 4 bolts, and coat the crossmember with anti-seize.
 
The 1/2" air chisel bit arrived today, took the crossmember and transmission out tonight. Thanks Comin' in Hot.

I have to say the long pry bar is not great advice, all it does is mutilate a crossmember you probably want to re-use.



How'd it go? Sounds like it went easy enough but how does the bracket that the xmember was pressed into look ? My concern was that the air hammer or chisel in this case would have warped that as well.


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How'd it go? Sounds like it went easy enough but how does the bracket that the xmember was pressed into look ? My concern was that the air hammer or chisel in this case would have warped that as well.

It was easy. I still had a helper pry (gently) on the crossmember while I ran the air chisel. It was definitely less destructive than bending the crossmember. The C-channel bracket in the frame did not get spread much, it is still an interference fit. And the bolts will clamp it together anyway.

Have to go rent the cherry picker again this weekend, although with everything disconnected it should be trivial to pull the engine. Finally . . . :rolleyes:
 
I tore down the engine. It appears to be in really good condition, the bearings still have tooling marks on them. Very little cam lobe wear, some light carbon on the pistons. Plugs were totally clean without about 20K miles on them. One rod bearing looked slightly more "polished" than the others. Without a micrometer, inside dial indicator and/or plasti-gauge I'll never know.

I guess I expected the damage to be a little more obvious based on previous experience. But I did shut the engine down within about 5 miles of the first sign of knock, so it didn't have much chance to beat itself up.

Who knows, maybe the slight "polishing" marks on the bearings were the first indications of a wear or oiling problem. I'm still leaning towards a dry sump system. Aviaid makes a slick drivers-side mount oil pump that utilizes the oil/coolant mounting pad for the pump. All I have to do is swap the pulley-driven power steering pump with electric.
 
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