Turbocharged Coyote/6R80 Swap, Build/Discussion Thread, Pics, info inside!

Hold the phone!

HP isn't through with this baby yet. They contacted me directly and are working on a resolution :). Even though I have a solution, it would still be simpler to just have the ECU disabled. I'll keep ya updated!
 
Got a couple quick vids of the functional gauges tonight. Still finishing up some stuff underhood and need to fabricate the exhaust, so the run time is minimal:

https://youtu.be/aKGIMyeZvVs

https://youtu.be/4wOuJ-D7yxk

I promise I'm working toward that all mighty driving video!

Driveshaft is supposed to ship this week, so we're getting close. I'm leaving on vacation in two weeks so hopefully we get it on the road before I take a short break.
 
You've successfully swapped a Coyote & 6R80 into a Marauder. When you actually get it on the road, sir, I'd like to come down to Kansas & shake your hand.
 
Driveshaft is supposed to ship this week, so we're getting close. I'm leaving on vacation in two weeks so hopefully we get it on the road before I take a short break.[/QUOTE]

No sir, no vacay until one burnout on a public road is done.....:beer:
 
Turbov6Bryan said:
Ya. Go make some 11's
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lol, until there's some boost involved, I simply don't see that happening!

Any guesses on the final weight?

Car was 4200 less driver entirely stock. Both engines were Aluminum/Aluminum combo's, the only real difference would be the trans which i'm guess by how my back was screaming picking both up, around 50 lbs difference give/take.

E/T estimates, at my altitude i'm thinking mid/high 13's at 101-105 MPH. I'm hoping that the stock Marauder exhuast won't hinder the performance very much as i'm going through the stock mufflers and cat-back as of now. I will come back and re-work the back section with better flowing mufflers at a later date. Right now, it's all about finishing it out and getting it on the road to see what the final build tally will be, get some passes and hit 1 major car show I go to each year, then begin phase 2 and re-work some things.

So, initially, this will be literally the difference between a stock Marauder 4.6, and a stock F150 Coyote/Mustang converted less the CR, tune and no cats/adding a 6 speed auto.

Previous best was 15.4@91 MPH if I recall but i'd need to dig the slip.

Boogity Boogity Boogity boys it's almost that time!
 
For those wanting to know how I keep the stock gauges, MIL and Speedometer, here's what I use:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-sta-1000

Yes, the Coyote can output a Tach signal factory, but you have no way of getting MIL status or speedometer, this box addresses both, for under $100. I add in a second DLC and stash it all neatly under the dash panel. Now, all speedometer corrections are done in the tune, no need to ever find a conversion box and flip switches when you change tires/ect.
 
My mustang is a premium, went 12.7 stock at 112. Tune and x pipe 12.0 at 116 all on factory perelli 245/45/19s
She's about 3550 or more w/o me

Depending on the DA, I'd say your about right

13.45 at 104 with DA at 2100. :)
 
I would put money on Bryan's ET/MPH guess. He was dead on every time on my GN when we changed something, LOL.
 
walt460 said:
Did HP Tuners get your EPATS issue fixed?
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We are still working on the issue at this time. I spoke with Eric at the beginning of the week on the issue, and he is going to UPS some of HP's equipment next week out to me, so that he can remote tune the ECU via my laptop and their interface in an attempt to delete the EPATS.

Aside from road testing the car (driveshaft shipped yesterday) my bypass solution is solid as well, of course, it should be as it retains the factory equipment and PATS system.

Now that I've proven it out, here's the details:

My system simply incorporates using the stock BCM, which is the interior fuse block of the truck the motor/trans were removed from, as well as the PATS transponder antenna and 1 key from the parted out pickup. The Fuse block is small, so I simply pined out the fuse block which was 7, 18 gauge wires including the PATS antenna, power and grounds. Secured the key to the antenna and the antenna to the BCM, then located them behind some paneling in the trunk of the car.

This serves two purposes. The second being, there is no external neutral safety switch or backup lamp switch on the 6r80 trans, therefore you have no reverse lights without the BCM being involved. So now, I have the reverse lamp output hookup on the BCM to activate the reverse lights in the Marauder, keeping everything working on the car in totality.

For this to work, unless you have dealer level scan tools to reset the PATS, you need to have the PCM/BCM/PATS Antenna/Key from the same donor vehicle.

Eric @ HPT still wants to use the car for R&D at this time for their EPATS disable, so we're proceeding with that next week, it will allow me to remove the key/antenna from my BCM, but i'm still retaining the BCM at this time due to my backup lamps being necessary.

I will keep you posted on the EPATS bypass as we progress. The way it's looking, the car should be on the road by next weekend!
 
I'm seriously interested in this build because I am attempting the EXACT swap in my 95 Thunderbird.
Im excited to learn how it all works.
 
We are very close to the test drive!

I know this video is very short, and they have been very pointless lately...but I promise that driving video is coming! Been finishing the short list, which I've almost completed. Fabricating exhaust this week, driveshaft should be here tomorrow. If it fits properly as per my measurements, and I don't run into any issues, by Sunday evening I should have a good GoPro driving video as well as some POSSIBLE tire smoke video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vQgubFjheoI
 
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