What did you do to your car today?

LeoVampire said:
Before I painted my calipers I bought brand new ones.

The base coat I used was Header paint primer that promotes bonding to the metal plus it can withstand extreme heat. This can withstand 2,000 degrees.

Then I did my paint color I wanted VHT caliper paint can withstand 900 degrees. Same with the top clear coat 900 degrees.

I think I am on year 3 now with this paint work and it still looks like the day I did it.
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I bought VHT's brake primer, paint and clear. Haven't done mine yet cause I will probably getting Wilwoods but I'll need to paint the rears at least.
 
LeoVampire said:
Before I painted my calipers I bought brand new ones.

The base coat I used was Header paint primer that promotes bonding to the metal plus it can withstand extreme heat. This can withstand 2,000 degrees.

Then I did my paint color I wanted VHT caliper paint can withstand 900 degrees. Same with the top clear coat 900 degrees.

I think I am on year 3 now with this paint work and it still looks like the day I did it.
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ctrlraven said:
I bought VHT's brake primer, paint and clear. Haven't done mine yet cause I will probably getting Wilwoods but I'll need to paint the rears at least.
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I already have red powered coated Wilwoods up front.

Obtained a set of rear calipers that I'm in the process of cleaning up and smoothing the surface, then it's off to get power coated.

Will swap them out the same time I do the 31 spline axles, TCE SS brake lines, rear shocks and slotted rotors.
 
Invader said:
Well they work fine on my Marauder!
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I got them from Raybestos with their high tech performance brake pads and the drilled and slotted rotors.

The pads have never made a single sound and have never left any dust behind either.

Plus I also have the braided lines on as well from TC.

Took off the master and adjusted the push rod till it sat just against the piston so I get instant response from touching the brake pedal.

I have no complaints about the brakes or the paint work I did on them to date.

I do not drive her much but I still change the brake fluid out every other year to keep it clean and clear.
 
LeoVampire said:
I got them from Raybestos with their high tech performance brake pads and the drilled and slotted rotors.

The pads have never made a single sound and have never left any dust behind either.

Plus I also have the braided lines on as well from TC.

Took off the master and adjusted the push rod till it sat just against the piston so I get instant response from touching the brake pedal.

I have no complaints about the brakes or the paint work I did on them to date.

I do not drive her much but I still change the brake fluid out every other year to keep it clean and clear.
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That's the exact setup I did... :beer: :beer: :beer:
 
LeoVampire said:
Took off the master and adjusted the push rod till it sat just against the piston so I get instant response from touching the brake pedal.

QUOTE]


I did the same thing until I discovered that brake fluid gets hot and expands, then it locks up the brakes so the car hardly moves. I would recommend you back it off a little. I had to adjust it a couple times to get it just right.
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Drained the oil, dropped the oil pan, and changed the gasket on my wife's Lincoln LS.

Tomorrow, a friend/mechanic is coming over to work on my Galaxie's p/s leak and to see if I really need a new serpentine belt on the LS. (I think I do.) We'll torque the oil pan bolts at that time.

Also, on the Galaxie, changed the weather stripping on the rear quarter windows, repaced the front parking light lenses with amber lenses (a real PITA; the old amber bulbs would not come out), replaced the dashboard "LIGHTER" and "AIR" bezels, and just learned that the Galaxie replacement instrument cluster bezel is no longer being manufactured.

Bummer.

To do:

Pull the Galaxie instrument cluster, repaint it, and replace the "TEMP" and "FUEL" clear plastic lenses.

That should be fun. Can't wait to squirm under the dash to pull the speedo cable and the various bulbs/connections.
 
Jumped the dead battery. Parasitic drain on these cars is heavier than other cars I've owned. Damn clock draws a lot of juice. :lol:
 
tbone said:
LeoVampire said:
Took off the master and adjusted the push rod till it sat just against the piston so I get instant response from touching the brake pedal.

QUOTE]


I did the same thing until I discovered that brake fluid gets hot and expands, then it locks up the brakes so the car hardly moves. I would recommend you back it off a little. I had to adjust it a couple times to get it just right.
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I changed out the system Fluid to High temp Synthetic Brake fluid for starters to handle issues with boiling fluid and increased pressure.

But I did make sure there is no resistance between the master piston plunger and the push-rod from the brake booster when I made the adjustments originally.

But your right it is a good idea to remind people that care needs to be taken when doing this. :D
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I finally got the correct fittings for my trans cooler and got that back together on my blue mm, today im going to drop the fuel tank on my black mm to change the evap hose the runs above it.... I am dreading doing this.
 
Had to abandon it

Moved back to Seattle for a year to work 3 jobs and get some money saved up since California has such horrible unemployment and crappy pay... :(
No car for a bit while I am here so I have been looking for a 2006 Crown Vic LX Sport to pass time and get to work while Im away from the Marauder
 
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